doobin

There is on the E27, I have it. Not on the E19/20 though.

Compactness. You can even get small batteries that fit inside the handles of the tools. Not all tools need 18v. just bought the top of the range 18v Milwaukee impact driver after the equivalent makita died after two years. HALF the price and a fair bit higher max torque. I’m impressed.

Looks very clean- how old is it?

If electrical, then could be anywhere on the tipper loom. You really need to get a multimeter and learn the basics, it's a valuable skill and not rocket science so don't be too put off. If it's been parked for three months it might corrosion on a terminal. Which one, I have no idea- that's what the multimeter is for. Start by testing for voltage at the switch and continuity across the switch when engaged. Then jump the switch or have someone hold it and test for voltage down the line. but when you say no power for the truck to tip, what exactly do you mean? Is the pump engaging but not pumping the ram up?

They chew through the bags for me. we had a feral ferret for a month or so- cheeky bugger came into the mess room and ate the cat food! Didn’t mind as it would keep rats down too but I think the cat and it had a disagreement cause I’ve only got one left 🤷‍♂️

They loved to nest in my bags. Was a right pain. Get a farm cat or something.

Best bet in my book is to take your vehicles to a place that only does MOTs. I've been doing this years and no complaints- well worth the 25 minute drive for me. No bull, no sales, the most they'll do is adjust a headlight or change a bulb so it passes. My local place is now Motest, and I think they are nationwide.

I smell bullshit. I mean, tacky sales copy.

The problem is, you’re advocating biomass as a complete replacement for every other fuel source. Have you any idea of the calorific content per kg dry matter of wood vs coal? That’s the crux of the matter. Coal is technically biomass. Trouble is it’s the accumulated and concentrated biomass of thousands of years of sunshine over a massive area. Biomass will only ever be a small scale solution for individuals or small communities, and of course, a diversionary tactic for governments and corporations. So you can add biomass to your initial list of ‘things that will never supply UK electricity needs’ 😂

Old Fords and massey are overpriced and underspecced if you actually want to work with it. For that the price you could get an international or David brown with power loader, power steering, pick up hitch and a drawbar, two speed pto, more horsepower etc

Leylandii and larch are bloody brilliant firewoods.

Impact wrenches are fantastic tools. I have the big 3/4 makita, smaller 1/2” makita plus a right angle mikwaukee 1/2” which is proper handy.

Having looked at the woodsure site, I see no reason why you can’t sell over 2m3 so long as accompanied with the lengthy declaration regarding home seasoning.

The Stihl MS241 on a picco chain is perfect power to weight ratio for coppicing- it weighs near on the same as the MS181 but far more power. However, I've had two and they both ate the drive shaft. Gone over to Echo (CS501SX) and I really rate it. I'd have a look at their range if I were you.

The missus got me to try sushi last year, I thought I'd hate it being the paragon of red eat meating manliness that I am. To my surprise it was bloody delicious.

Yes we do.

Don't forget the bark chippings. You know, those bags that are sold in garden centres that contain only bark? Tree surgeons strip the bark off and chip it before felling the tree and it's a shame to let it go to waste.

What I can't work out is why a millionaire's son is dicking around charging £1 a window (figures from his website, and don't worry, he's a licensed window cleaner, plus you know he's trustworthy because he was a fireman for 18 years.) At least Donald Trump's father set him up in property. A 10k hot wash system doesn't really compare to your first office block.

This always happens on these threads- the true motivation slips out.. Seems to me you just want the tree out and see your son's allergy as a convenient heart-wrencher. My advice? Don't buy a rabbit hutch with a big tree next to it unless you like trees.

I loved the 241 and was pretty much Stihl like a stick of rock at the time. But both saws I bought just weren’t reliable.

As a follow up to this- I'm really starting to like the Echo. Despite the extra vibes, the awkward chain changing, despite the way the MS241 is more ergonomic in every way, for some reason after four months of having both on the shelf the Echo is the one I reach for every time. It just rips with a picco chain. Raw power- does the job and makes me smile. Sold the MS241 for £350 yesterday and don't thnk I'll miss it.

Perfect.

Looks like 6mm, possibly ten. If so you're laughing. What's the breaker rating? Stick a bolt in the fuse and or a 16 amp socket in and crack on. Big vote for R tech here.

If using a three pin plug to 16amp adaptor then the fuse is redundant so long as the adaptor cable is sufficent (2.5mm) It's not a safety device as the welder will draw more than 13 amps. If it makes you feel better he could just wire a 16 amp socket into the ring main, or even hardwire it, but the effect would be the same as running a proper 32 amp plug and breaker. The only difference is that the 20 amp breaker might trip under sustained full chat. It's no less safe. A fuse is simply there to protect the appliance and wiring, which in this case is rated way in excess of the fuse. The RCD and MCB protect the user. All the pins in any socket are more than capable of handling the current- they go down to poxy 2.5mm wire don't they?? I've never used the stupidly massive 32 amp sockets, 16 amp is plenty. An inverter mig can be had for a few hundred, so no, your advice is not spot on given the other facets of MIG welding such as heavy gas and multi pass that will allow the OP to use a technique he is comfortable with to get more than adequate results.

Given that any invertor mig welder will happily run stick then I'd have to disagree with this as a course of action for OP, especially if he's used to MIG Instead, purchase an invertor MIG set of around 200-250 amps capacity. Invertors draw less current than transformer sets. I recommend R-tech. Get a stinger and lead if you want to do arc as well, and possibly even the spool gun if you fancy trying your hand at MIG ally welding. Next, replace the fuse in the plug with a bolt. This will allow you to draw current to the maximum amperage of your breaker, usually 20 amps. It's not ideal, but it's a workaround. You need to check that you have a decent (2.5mm cable min if a spur) to the breaker, and if welding high be prepared have nothing on the breaker save the welder. The machine won't draw any more amps than it needs, and you'll need to be running pretty hot and long to trip a 20 amp breaker. I've just installed a mezzanine floor in my new yard, running almost full pelt on an Rtech 250 amp machine on 10mm steel. This was running off a 20 amp breaker (not got around to sorting the electrics yet) and 40m of 2.5mm artic cable (plus bolt in the fuse...) It's not ideal, but 99% of the time you will not be running anywhere near full welder capacity, so for the odd loader bracket (and using multiple passes) this will see you right. The other thing to read up upon is the use of a gas with more carbon dioxide in the mix- 15 or 20% as opposed to 5%: Hobbyweld Product Range | Hobbyweld 15 MIG Welding Gas HOBBYWELD.CO.UK Hobbyweld 15 MIG welding gas is most popular for heavier MIG welding applications; Including structural steel work... Essentially this will give you a hotter weld pool and more penetration if used correctly. You will notice this if switching to 15% from 5%- you will need less voltage and be able to run more wire feed/amps. Coupled with removing the bottleneck of the fuse, this will see you right for any tractor loader brackets. Eventually, you might get round to installing a proper 32amp supply, which as mentioned will open up a lot of options such as bigger compressors, plasma and the like.