morten
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Everything posted by morten
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By laziness overrides my OCD in such situations
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I don's see why it should be any more expensive when sold by a large DIY chain, than when sold though specialist dealers. Even so, at £3.50/litre is still a lot lower TCO than having to replace the chainsaw once a year, when stale fuel has caused the oil to separate seizing the saw which has been sitting on the shelf for 11 months, and disposing of the 4l of stale fuel too. For home owners/infrequent users Alcylate fuel is ideal.
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Aspen (or other alkylate) fuel is on the shelves of the B&Q equivalents in Scandinavia and much of continental Europe. In the UK, Aspen is marketed by Anglo American Oil Company Ltd - you really should direct the question to them
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When washing your ropes, you can prevent them from tangling up by doubling the rope twice, and then daisy-chaining the entire length. Daisy chaining the rope while it dries also helps the drying process, as it ensures that air can freely circulate as the is not bunched-up. When dailychained this way, a rope will be about 1/20th of the length of the rope itself (depending on how tight you leave the daisy chains). See [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75XNCMKW7XE]How to daisychain a climbing rope | Arborist knot tying - YouTube[/ame] (skip the annoying 40 second disclaimer/intro)
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Right! The "W" word is a negative word. The spin doctor advices using one of: Naturally humidified logs Ecologically moistened logs Weather dew prime quality logs
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I have two pairs, one with velcro bottoms and one with leather. I prefer the leather ones, but to stabilise the foot, the leather strap need to be wrapped once around the aluminium upright. One of my friends paid the extra money for the carbon ones. Yes, they are a little lighter, but the carbon is fragile, so you cant walk across a paved area using them, like you can on the aluminium ones. The outer coating is crushed and the carbon fibres are exposed. I know you are not supposed to walk around on paved surfaces in spikes, but when you need to get something from your kit bag, and the groundie isn't around, you do it, right?
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I guess you have a pair of Gecko Distel spikes like these: Distel Gecko carbon fibre climbing spikes, Velcro straps | F R Jones and Son Du they have velcro or leather straps around the ankles? If velcro: Tighten it up as tight as you can around the boots, or change it to leather straps. If Leather: Try wrapping the leather strap one turn around the carbon fibre shaft. That will stabilise the spikes much better to the boots. Depending on the length of the leather strap and the size of your boots, you may need a longer leather strap.
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Consider one of the site sponsors distel Search Results | F R Jones and Son
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So do most of us, when it comes to these common symptoms. But in the spirit of this thread, why not take a couple of photographs of the broken clutch spring and the wire/switch that causes these symptoms and post them here? That would further increase the educational value of the thread.
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I view new posts every time I'm online. I guess I'm responsible for about 1,000 views
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And who should govern the OUTflux of British nationals?
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Strictly speaking, you are comparing SRT with DdRT. DRT is frequently used as an abbreviation for "Doubled Rope Technique", but as DRT may also mean "Double Rope Technique" (climbing with two ropes), so to avoid any confusion, you really should use the abbreviation DdRT (not that I think there were any confusion, this being an arborist forum).
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There is no such thing as the universally "best harness". Quite a few are bad (badly designed, badly built), but different climbers with different body size and shape, climbing technique, personal preferences etc will have different preferences. Go to a well assorted reseller and try out a variety of harnesses, and choose the one that feels the most confortable, and that will hold the kit you need. There is a LOT of difference in the number and size of tool-loops. Also, if you are using Petzl CARITOOL, you should double check if it can easily be clipped onto the harness of your choice. Good hunting!
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So what toys are you getting your self this xmas lol
morten replied to mendiplogs's topic in The Lounge
A new DSLR camera: Canon EOS 650D -
It didn't reach its reserve price first time around (bid was £7,000), but has now been re-listed (current bid is £6,200) Sawmill Woodmizer LT40 HD | eBay
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I thought most accommodations in Sweden had a "Torkskåp" that would not only allow you to dry your clothes, but also all your ropes and gear overnight - and leave it nice and warm. It operates with forced airflow with moderate temperatures (20 - 40 C). I built one myself using an old metal locker with a hole cut in the base and top, and a small industrial heater placed on top forcing warm air (thermostat) through top-to-bottom. Dries everything (boots, clothes, ropes, the lot) within an hour or two much more gently than a tumble drier.
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It uses a 3/8" Low Profile (Picco) chain, and the saw doesn't really have the power to pull anything bigger (e.g. .325")
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Electric splitter is... Cheaper to buy Cheaper to run Cheaper to maintain Quieter (although some make an annoying whining sound) Less smelly Lighter Less mobile (needs electric outlet) Less power Slower operation (typically)
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Do you frequently cut "dirty" wood (sand/earth in bark)? If you do, I'd recommend a semi chisel, Rapid Micro (RM), as it is less sensitive and will will hold its edge better, requiring less sharpening, thus lasting longer. Otherwise, I'd choose the full chisel, Rapid Super (RS) as it cuts faster (cross cutting). See this page for info on Stihl chains: Saw chain types | STIHL | Stihl, Viking, chain saws, brushcutters, hedge trimmers, clearing saws, high-pressure cleaners, lawn mowers, trimmers Oh... by the way - don't even consider a non-Stihl chain. Stihl chains are universally recognised as superior to Oregon, Carlton and others.
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I have only ever heard about the chain falling off if it was too loose, or if the oiler was defect, causing the chain to become very hot and expand. Check the oiler. This is most definitely NOT a Stihl MS 261 specific issue.
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Believing that any restrictions on transportation/import/handling of Ash timber will prevent the disease spreading and causing country-wide die-back of Ash trees in the UK is naïve. It may delay the spread of the disease, but it will spread regardless of any action taken. Mind you, I believe some resistant specimens will survive, and form the base of a new population of (resistant) ash trees in the distant future. These diseases are (also) just part of nature's way of ensuring evolution. I would be happy to be proven wrong, but I'm afraid evidence (from Elm disease, and from Continental Europe) has proven me right.
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That must be either "user error", or the clutch bearing totally FUBAR'ed.
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I would choose a "drying oil". Dyring the drying/hardening phase, the oil will expand and fill the microscopic cavities in the wood, reducing the wood's ability to absorb water/moisture, which would in turn mean that the board will dry up quicker, minimising bacterial and fungus growth
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+1 And alcohol gel is safe, too. For hands as well as climbing kit. I have a small spray-bottle with pure methylated spirits that I use for hands, clothes and kit. Works a treat!
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If you're happy with Husqvarna, don't change! I'd use the 390 over the 3120 any day for general logging. The 3120 is HEAVY!, see Chainsaw data
