morten
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Everything posted by morten
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So the advice is?
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I have recently been milling smaller diameter logs on an Alaskan Mill using a 25" solid nose bar (Stihl Duromatic) with a narrow kerf (1.3mm) using a 3/8" LP chain, and it is working quite well mounted on a Stihl MS 660. One advantage using a solid nose bar on an Alaskan mill is that you can mount the nose-end clamp very close to the end of the bar, since there is no risk of damaging any sprocket. I have not noticed any degradation in performance due to the lack of a nose sprocket. What are your views on using solid nose bars for milling? What are the disadvantages, except that the solid nose bars seem to be a little more expensive than the equivalent nose sprocket versions?
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Shipping MS660 to OZ - best stuff for really, really cleaning saws
morten replied to Rowan the Bruce's topic in Chainsaws
Ethanol or isopropanol alcohol dissolves resin and chain oil and disinfects by dissolving organic cells (bacteria/fungus). Furthermore, it will be "safe" to use on plastics, rubber and electrical components of the saw. Some claim that it need to be dissolved to 70% for best disinfectant properties, see - Why is 70 percent alcohol a better disinfectant than 100 percent alcohol - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disinfectant#Alcohols Apply it using a "window spray" bottle. -
Still don't see how the symptoms can be caused by a blocked breather valve
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I much prefer the Lock Jack or even the Hich Climber to the Blake, but I've never ever climbed using a Bolt. Got any pictures?
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How long can you work outside Uk, being self employed?
morten replied to MOG's topic in Climbers talk
In EU countries, you can work for as long as you like, and pay tax in the UK as long as your permanent residence remains in the UK. But Switzerland is not part of EU, so you'd have to check as other rules apply. -
Best personal first aid kit recommendations please?
morten replied to ^TANK^'s topic in Climbers talk
I agree - a CAT is all you really need. Apply it at major arterial bleeds to buy yourself time to get to the ground and call for assistance. Just remember never to apply the CAT below the elbow or knee, since it will not be able to stop bleeding due to the skeletal structure. In my vehicle, I also have some eye wash and bandages for treating minor injuries. -
I stand corrected, and am living proof, that you learn as long as you live. I just still don't see how vacuum can build in the fuel tank immediately when starting, but I now know that it apparently does happen.
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Whatever the cause of the problem is, it sounds like it is not getting any/enough fuel. So look at the fuel supply path. Unlikely to be the breather valve, as it would run ok for a while until a vacuum is built up in the fuel tank
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Mounting a ladder as a guide bar for the Alaskan
morten replied to morten's topic in Panther Mill UK
Oh yes, that's another benefit: no risk of hitting any screws, and you only need four short screws. Not a whole batch ranging from 3" to 8". Post aome pictures of your brackets once you've made them. Distributed product development -
Mounting a ladder as a guide bar for the Alaskan
morten replied to morten's topic in Panther Mill UK
I considered making the brackets narrower for exactly the reason you mentioned but occasionally you need to raise one end a few inches to cut parallel to the centre, and on smaller logs I tend to split them through the centre initially and then cut planks from each half, to get as large a surface for the mill to maximise stability. -
Mounting a ladder as a guide bar for the Alaskan
morten replied to morten's topic in Panther Mill UK
I have tried mounting a ladder using screws through the rungs in the past, but I found it way too much work fiddling around with wedges under the rungs and measuring at the log-end, and adjusting again and again. Also, I found that the mounting screws tended to rotate the ladder slightly. Using this end bracket, I simply mount the first bracket at the "big" end of the log, and measure the distance to the centre. Then, at the "small" end I lift up the ladder using a wedge until the distance to the center is identical (small yellow wedge in picture two), and mount the screws. All done and no deflection at all. It saves me time and aggravation :-) -
Mounting a ladder as a guide bar for the Alaskan
morten replied to morten's topic in Panther Mill UK
A cheap angle bracket with a slid cut using an angle grinder, and a small bend for making it easier to slide on to the ladder-profile. Total cost is about £1. -
I have come up with a way of attaching a ladder ("I" profile stiles) to a log without having to drill through the steps. The ladder is easily mounted to the log-ends using a total of four screws. The ladder is very stiff. On a 2m log, the deflection at the middle of the ladder is about 2 mm. That deflection could be minimized by placing a wedge between a step and the log. And the ladder is very stiff, ensuring minimal deflection. I am enclosing two pictures taken yesterday, while cutting up some wind-felled spruce. If anyone else have pictures of ways to make mounting rails easier/quicker, please let me know. For me, it has been the initial set-up for the first cut that has hampered my productivity when milling low value timber (softwood).
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(only once, though)
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I would say that 74% is a bit on the high side, if you're really busy. I would raise my prices by 10-15% (during busy periods) and see your net profits go up by double that (on the jobs that you win), easily compensating for the slightly reduced workload.
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Thanks for the first hand account. Did you ever try out the Stabilo All pencils, though? I find them great. Very similar to normal (graphite) pencils, but they wok on virtually any surface. Even newly debarked, sap-wet, slippery logs.
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Although you should factor in the risk of having a male nurse playing with them privates
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That argument is fundamentally flawed. Sure, you have never had a problem compromising your single point of attachment (with a saw or otherwise). If you had, you would likely not be here to tell about it! Anyway, it is the climber's choice how much (double) safety to apply. Too much, and you never get any work done. Too little, and you increase the risk of accidents. It will always be a personal balance with a lot of factors that have to taken into account, including experience, the job at hand etc. The only thing that I did point out, was that the proposed method of attaching the lanyard would reduce the safety of the climbing system. And that is indisputable, isn't it? And I feel it is worth pointing out, so any other climbers can make an informed choice.
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Another alternative for marking fresh wood is one made by Veritas for use in their Log Scribe "Veritas Indelible Pencils", available in black and red, see VERITAS INDELIBLE PENCILS - RED (10) Veritas Indelible Pencils | Green Shopping
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This 7t, 52 cm splitter from Jonesie seems to fit the bill quite well: Lawnflite LS2300E electric log splitter 7 tons | F R Jones and Son
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I have recently switched from a (Bacho) splitting maul to a £150 electric splitter. I am vastly more productive now, since I can split at full pace for the entire day now. I estimate I can split about 4 m3 in a day. I produce about 20 m3 per year for my own usage. The splitter I have is a 7 ton version, 52 cm capacity with a forwarding time of 10 sec and a return time of 4 sec. When producing shorter lengths (30 cm), I place a block on the sledge reducing these times slightly. I have been splitting mainly birch and pine with a diameter of up to about 50 cm (20"), and it has handled everything I have thrown at it without trouble. Even the most knotted birch, which is virtually impossible to split with the maul. I sure do hate the whining noise though! I am certain the splitter is manufactured in China, but have no idea whether it is available for sale in the UK, though.
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Sure, but if your lanyard is connected to the side D's you won't have a single point of failure in the system. So moving from that configuration, you reduce the inherent protection in the system.
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One disadvantage with a setup like that, is that your bridge becomes a single point of failure. If your Silky takes out your bridge you're on a fast descend. Or?
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I know the paint wears off the Husqvarna bars fairly quickly, but all paint gone in one hour - that's a record!
