morten

As others have pointed out... Try this forum ArbTrader Arborists Classifieds and/or eBay - one of the UK's largest shopping destinations and see what happens.

Seems to be that way, see Story of Partner - Complete Range of Petrol-Powered Garden Machines

Except for the fact that McCulloch was spun off together with Husqvarna, and is now part of the product offering of the "Husqvarna Group", see About | Husqvarna Group

I agree with you, that the barrell/fisherman's/double-overhand knot is most likely the only stopper knot you'll ever need. But that doesn't mean a Knot Guide shouldn't include others and explain their strengths and weaknesses. But as the thread I referred to in my original posting proves: It seems that students are taught the figure-8 as a stopper knot (possibly so they won't have to learn yet another knot), so a knot guide should guide (newly educated) arborists about pros and cons. By the way... My knickers are in a figure-8 twist now, and I'm knot happy about that!

Below the text entry fields, you'll find a section called "Attach Files" with a "Manage attachments" button. Use that to point out your picture files, and they'll be displayed at the bottom of your posting

Are you certain that Stihl no longer produces the MS 192? It may just be Stihl UK that no longer markets the saw, whereas Stihl Germany (and other countries) do, see MS 192 C-E - Äußerst leichte und komfortable 3,3kg-Benzinmotorsäge mit ErgoStart

Use the [search] button of this forum, using the search term: "monkey puzzle". It reveals threads like this one: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/firewood-forum/10031-monkey-puzzle-worth-anything.html

For a "prettier", more organic look, just give the boards straight edges, and nail them up with varying width, and with a 1/2" - 1" gap. Any wider, and rain/snow may get to your logs. Leave a good 4" gap at the base, though, that way you'll have plenty of air circulation. Having the varying board width looks really good! Obviously, you'll have to cut to specific width at the corners, unless you select boards so the total width match.

Maybe so. But few of the stopper knots are there, separate section or not. And the "termination knot" section show the knots that could be used as stopper knots in a configuration that is not suitable as a stopper knot. And I know quite a few knots that are useless or dangerous to use as stopper knots, so I wouldn't agree with your claim that "Any knot will do as a stopper". Any way, I am simply trying to provide a hint (to Steve) of possible improvements that may be made to the Knot Guide.

The Knot Guide could use a section for Stopper Knots (witnessed by recent threads on the Climber forum like this one http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/climbers-talk/42531-stopper-knot.html). This section should include: Overhand Double overhand/Fisherman's/Barrel Figure-8 Figure-9 Ashley Others?

No stopper knots in there, mate

Thanks spud . Will have a look at the linkage with the cover off. I can't believe I've been living with a defective saw for more than a year. Not like me at all!

Bump. Another year gone by, and I'm still annoyed by the slow deceleration of my MS 261. By now, there should be plenty of statistical evidence available to show if this is a common problem on the 261, or not. I have richened up the carb "L" adjustment, which didn't really make any difference (except for faster acceleration, which is good). I guess the factory setting is on the lean side to improve emissions. But out of all my Stihl saws (MS 200, 260, 261, 361, 660) the only one ever to exhibit the "slow deceleration" problem is the MS 261. I how found a work-around for the problem, which is to flick on the chain brake to stop the chain. But it is ridiculous, and stopping the chain using the chain brake many times a minute can't be good for the brake either. Any opinions?

That may be so, but in that case the climber is as likely to cut his (unprotected) throat or left arm as his feet. The chainsaw boot protection was spec'ed to protect against a chainsaw with the finger OFF the trigger. So that's what they will protect against. Noone has ever claimed anything different.

Exactly. Let go of the trigger BEFORE the chain meets with the boot. That is what the boots are supposed to protect against.

Scan at 300 DPI (or higher) resolution, and choose "Grayscale" or "Magazone" or "Text" as type, and PNG or GIF (or PDF) as the format rather than JPG which is more suited to photographs and will blur text. The options vary a lot, depending on which software you use to drive the scanner.

Double overhand stopper knot (also known as a fisherman's stopper knot) is quite good, compact, and won't unravel. Also, see Ashley Stopper Knot

To quote someone else... If You’re Not Paying for It; You’re the Product being sold Or There is no such thing as a free lunch

Carpal Tunnel?

I wish you a full and speedy recovery.

To be honest, the described symptoms do NOT sound like the typical symptoms of "white finger" to me Vibration white finger - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia This is more likely a problem with the muscles of the forearm, that pull the tendons of the fingers, caused by prolonged overloading of the muscles resulting in a cramp-like muscle state. If this is indeed the cause, a number of exercises (performed at regular intervals during the work-day) are likely to relieve the symptoms, see Exercises RSI Tendonitis sections: Forearm Flexor Stretch with Pronation Forearm Flexor Stretch with Supination Alternatively, it could be Trigger Finger although the described symptoms don't match too well.

I would be a little concerned about using sawdust from chainsaws for anything related to food for human consumption (chicken, eggs, vegetable gardens etc) unless you use bio-degradable chain oils. Mineral oil may be detrimental to your health. I have no scientific research to back up this concern though, but my view is: better safe than sorry. Carcinogens may be decades to result in cancer.

The experts seem to disagree on the subject (from Wikipedia article)

The operation itself is fairly minor (half hour job). But the recovery time afterwards meant I was unable to do any arb work for a period of 4 weeks, and it was about 3 months until i was fully recovered (climbing etc). Before getting accepted for operation, neurological measurements were made, measuring the difference between nerve response by injecting electrical signals into the nerves of fingers that go through the Carpal Tunnel, comparing it to nerves bypassing the carpal tunnel. Electrical pulse speed and strength is measured, and you get an objective measurement of how much impact the CTS has. I believe that the risk of something going wrong is fairly minor (provided the surgery is performed by hand surgery specialists), and when fully recovered from the treatment, you regain virtually full nerve response, and I recurrence is virtually ruled out (AFAIK). So to conclude: The only thing that should keep you from getting surgery, after being diagnosed with CTS is the lost income during the 4 - 12 week recovery. I was lucky enough to be able to make money doing non-arb related work (software and web development). I believe that all NON-surgical treatments that are offered, provide only temporary relief (at best) from CTS symptoms, but I would be happy to hear about any evidence to the contrary.

I honestly don't think there is any medical evidence that vibration causes CTS, see Carpal tunnel syndrome - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia I realise that vibration may cause other ailments with similar symptoms, such as "White Fingers" but don't expect to be able to prevent or treat CTS with gloves. A few years back, I had Carpal Tunnel Release Surgery done to my hand, which AFAIK is one of the few scientifically documented treatments with lasting effect.