morten
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Everything posted by morten
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Sure crayons work, but you loose accuracy in your markings
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Everyone that has tried to mark freshly felled timber for milling with a normal graphite pencil, will know that the makings are very difficult to read However, Stabilo produces a special-purpose pencil, that will mark wet surfaces (and plastic, metal etc). The most commonly available color is black, but it is produced in multiple colors, and I frequently use the red color. It is called Stabilo All 8008, see STABILO All ? PRODUCTS ? STABILO.COM It costs about £1/pencil, and is sold in cartons containing 12 pencils. A Google search reveals this UK supplier: http://www.tigerpens.co.uk/acatalog/Stabilo_All_Pencils.html
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Not only that, but I doubt that the drive link gauge matches the standard Stihl bar 1.6 mm. At least I have never seen a 3/8" LP chain with that drive link gauge. The widest 3/8" LP gauge is, I believe 1.3mm which would be VERY noticable, when placed in a 1.6mm groove - it would wiggle about a LOT. I think you should have a serious look at the drive sprocket (pitch), chain (pitch/style and drive link gauge), bar (gauge and nose sprocket pitch). Only then will you be able to tell what fits with what, and avoid doing (further) damage to your equipment.
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Have a close look at the very end (8:05) and see a Stihl saw sent flying
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They will fit, as long as... The chain pitch (typically 3/8", 3/8" Low Profile, .325") must match the chainsaw sprocket as well as the nose-wheel of the bar The drive link gauge of the chain must match the gauge of the bar (typically 1.3mm = .050", 1.5mm = .058" or 1.6mm = .063") The bar must match the chainsaw mounts and oiler holes must line up
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As others have pointed out... Try this forum ArbTrader Arborists Classifieds and/or eBay - one of the UK's largest shopping destinations and see what happens.
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Seems to be that way, see Story of Partner - Complete Range of Petrol-Powered Garden Machines
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Except for the fact that McCulloch was spun off together with Husqvarna, and is now part of the product offering of the "Husqvarna Group", see About | Husqvarna Group
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I agree with you, that the barrell/fisherman's/double-overhand knot is most likely the only stopper knot you'll ever need. But that doesn't mean a Knot Guide shouldn't include others and explain their strengths and weaknesses. But as the thread I referred to in my original posting proves: It seems that students are taught the figure-8 as a stopper knot (possibly so they won't have to learn yet another knot), so a knot guide should guide (newly educated) arborists about pros and cons. By the way... My knickers are in a figure-8 twist now, and I'm knot happy about that!
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Below the text entry fields, you'll find a section called "Attach Files" with a "Manage attachments" button. Use that to point out your picture files, and they'll be displayed at the bottom of your posting
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Are you certain that Stihl no longer produces the MS 192? It may just be Stihl UK that no longer markets the saw, whereas Stihl Germany (and other countries) do, see MS 192 C-E - Äußerst leichte und komfortable 3,3kg-Benzinmotorsäge mit ErgoStart
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Use the [search] button of this forum, using the search term: "monkey puzzle". It reveals threads like this one: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/firewood-forum/10031-monkey-puzzle-worth-anything.html
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For a "prettier", more organic look, just give the boards straight edges, and nail them up with varying width, and with a 1/2" - 1" gap. Any wider, and rain/snow may get to your logs. Leave a good 4" gap at the base, though, that way you'll have plenty of air circulation. Having the varying board width looks really good! Obviously, you'll have to cut to specific width at the corners, unless you select boards so the total width match.
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Maybe so. But few of the stopper knots are there, separate section or not. And the "termination knot" section show the knots that could be used as stopper knots in a configuration that is not suitable as a stopper knot. And I know quite a few knots that are useless or dangerous to use as stopper knots, so I wouldn't agree with your claim that "Any knot will do as a stopper". Any way, I am simply trying to provide a hint (to Steve) of possible improvements that may be made to the Knot Guide.
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The Knot Guide could use a section for Stopper Knots (witnessed by recent threads on the Climber forum like this one http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/climbers-talk/42531-stopper-knot.html). This section should include: Overhand Double overhand/Fisherman's/Barrel Figure-8 Figure-9 Ashley Others?
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No stopper knots in there, mate
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Thanks spud . Will have a look at the linkage with the cover off. I can't believe I've been living with a defective saw for more than a year. Not like me at all!
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Bump. Another year gone by, and I'm still annoyed by the slow deceleration of my MS 261. By now, there should be plenty of statistical evidence available to show if this is a common problem on the 261, or not. I have richened up the carb "L" adjustment, which didn't really make any difference (except for faster acceleration, which is good). I guess the factory setting is on the lean side to improve emissions. But out of all my Stihl saws (MS 200, 260, 261, 361, 660) the only one ever to exhibit the "slow deceleration" problem is the MS 261. I how found a work-around for the problem, which is to flick on the chain brake to stop the chain. But it is ridiculous, and stopping the chain using the chain brake many times a minute can't be good for the brake either. Any opinions?
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That may be so, but in that case the climber is as likely to cut his (unprotected) throat or left arm as his feet. The chainsaw boot protection was spec'ed to protect against a chainsaw with the finger OFF the trigger. So that's what they will protect against. Noone has ever claimed anything different.
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Exactly. Let go of the trigger BEFORE the chain meets with the boot. That is what the boots are supposed to protect against.
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Scan at 300 DPI (or higher) resolution, and choose "Grayscale" or "Magazone" or "Text" as type, and PNG or GIF (or PDF) as the format rather than JPG which is more suited to photographs and will blur text. The options vary a lot, depending on which software you use to drive the scanner.
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Double overhand stopper knot (also known as a fisherman's stopper knot) is quite good, compact, and won't unravel. Also, see Ashley Stopper Knot
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To quote someone else... If You’re Not Paying for It; You’re the Product being sold Or There is no such thing as a free lunch
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Carpal Tunnel?
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I wish you a full and speedy recovery.
