morten

As Aspen need not be mixed with anything, and so avoids any problems with mixing with the wrong thing as well as getting the mixing ratio wrong, it clearly reduces the risk of getting things wrong (in addition to the fuel degradation issue). But I agree, that it does not prevent someone from filling up the fuel tank with bar oil, and filling up the oil tank with fuel (mixed or not)

Are the eight exclamation marks (!!!!!!!!) in the title an indication of the fact that you believe this thread is much more important to everyone than every other thread in this forum that do not contain any exclamation marks?

Pop off the cylinder head, and you should see them

You can find the Gelert bag online (use google for searching) or in a shop near you - see Gelert's website Stores | Stockists | Gelert

A low-cost alternative to the "real thing" (i.e. NorthFace) would be the Gelert Expedition Cargo Bag (65 and 90 litre variants), which would cost around £30-£40 I own both Gelert and NorthFace kit bags, and while I prefer the NorthFace, the Gelert bags are quite sturdy.

While I can't fault the above advice (straight from the chainsaw 101), I have the feeling, that it might be a good idea to switch to Aspen 2T for fuel, for the following reasons: You can't get the mixture wrong, as it is premixed If the fuel is left unused for weeks, the Aspen can be used, whereas the fuel/2 stroke mix needs a shake If the fuel is left unused for months, the Aspen can be used, whereas the fuel/2 stroke mix needs to be discarded For occasional use, a change to Aspen won't be a financial burden to speak of Using Aspen, you virtually eliminate the chance of seizing the engine due to inadequate lubrication, or stalling it due to unburnt 2 stroke oil deposits. I am aware that this may add to the confusion, but I honestly think it is valid advise in this case.

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+1 for that. What Stihl could consider, would be to offer lower rates to those resellers that commit to having showroom facilities, professional advice, stock common spares and provide servicing, but allow online sales. That way, the professional resellers would be able to compete with the online providers, and might end up selling more.

What exactly do you mean is shortsighted? I am not advocating the online selling of Stihl products. I have made no such statement. I agree with you, that unless the margin for the dealers are maintained, they will go out of business, and so will their service, knowledge and local spares-availability. What I am complaining about is that Stihl is not using that as an argument for maintaining the no-online policy. And the reson is, that they would not be allowed to by regulatory bodies around the world. Question is how long they will be able to enforce their policy. Only time will tell.

Eats, Shoots & Leaves for the uninitiated

Since 1853 About Jøtul

I believe that Stihl's "concern for the consumer" argument is purely a fig's leaf to hide the real reason, which is to maintain the relatively high profit margin of their resellers. If Stihl allowed online sales, the online selling prices would quickly drop, and thus put pressure on the resellers to also drop their prices further. Customers would end up going to the authorized reseller for advice, but in the end buying the products online. Faced with such a price pressure, many of the resellers would possibly drop the Stihl range altogether (in favour of Husqvarna), and Stihl would end up losing sales, and more importantly losing many qualified resellers and service agents. The "no online selling" is a much used practice of high-end (professional use as well as fashion) brands. Trading standards regulations may prevent such sales channel restrictions from being applied, unless the manufacturer (or their agent) can come up with a safety argument. And that is exactly what Stihl has done. But I simply don't buy that argument. Anyone can go to their local DIY store and buy a chainsaw without getting ANY advice, or PPE recommendations. And if any advice is given, it'll be from an 18 year old lad that has never operated a chainsaw. Are Stihl's saws any more dangerous to the general public than a McCulloch? Call me a cynic, if you will, but I simply don't buy Stihl's arguments, although I perfectly understand why they are doing it: Profit!

I, too, use the "upside down" humboldt cut. But I see no reason why it should behave any different to a "normal" gob during the felling. In forestry, the Humboldt cut is used mostly to reduce the timber waste near the base. In arborist work, I use the Humboldt for convenience. Especially when making the cut with the top of the bar, it gives me a more convenient position of the saw (not having to twist it as much).

The "LA" is the idle adjustment screw

One way to tell which "class" a certain Stihl chainsaw belongs to, is by looking at the colour of the rear-handle. Below you'll see a list of all the Stihl saws that is currently being marketed (somewhere in Europe) Amateur class saws (Hobby/Home) All-black rear handle: MS170, MS171, MS181, MS192, MS211. Semi-pro class saws (Property Management/Agriculture) Orange rear handle with black top: MS230, MS250, MS290, MS310. All-white rear handle: MS231, MS251, MS271, MS291, MS311, MS391. Pro class saws (Forestry) White rear handle with black top: MS201, MS241, MS261, MS341, MS362, MS441, MS460, MS650, MS660, MS880.

How long time did it takie you to finish the job, in the end? Last time I priced a fir tree speedline job, it ended up taking me twice my estimate. Painfully slow, even when tying on 3-4 branches at a time with loops. The tree was enclosed by buildings, garages and sheds with only 2-6 feet of space, and the speed line had to go over the shed roof, and the lower branches ended up being caught on the roof, having to be dragged past it.

A major difference is that the pro/forestry saws have an alloy crank-case, whereas the 391 is plastic. See this posting for an explanation of the various Stihl model numbering and their meaning: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat/24407-stihl-numbers.html#post412268

You're mistaken. The equivalent Husky saw is not double the money. You are comparing paper-specs. If you are on a tight budget then buy a smaller/cheaper Husky/Stihl saw and you are better off. Or buy the Mitox, regret the purchase after one week, spend the next six months suffering and being depressed about having bought the wrong thing, and then spend the money again buying a proper saw.

I got it new via mail order from Germany, as my local Danish Stihl pusher couldn't be bothered to order one for me, and paid €80 (approx GBP 70). https://www.wmv-dresden-shop.de/shop/show_artikel.php?ARTNR=4061118&offset=0

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I have just recently purchased a Stihl EDT 8 tachometer to ease my mind when adjusting the carb's "H" screw. I knew beforehand that the battery is non-replacable (supposedly), but have also heard that if you cut the case open, it contains a fairly standard lithium battery that is easily replaced, should you ever need to, although you would need to glue/tape the box back together again. I know that the battery is supposed to last for 5 years, but I'm fairly keen on getting inside the tach to see what's inside. Has any of you guys ever tried breaking/cutting open the EDT-7/8 box, and can give some hints to where to make the "cut"? In any case, I'll have a go, and post some photos in this thread of the process to (hopefully) act as a guide to anyone else who some day may have to replace the battery rather than buying a new tach. In any case, I find it a bit strange, that Stihl (or whoever designed and manufactured the EDT 8) has chosen to glue together the box rather than putting in a couple of screws. I know it reduces the cost by about a penny, but come on guys, it's silly.

Spud. Did you really mean "... the L screw ...". I would think it is the "H" screw that determines the high-end (FOT) mixture. Just want to avoid someone trying to adjust high-end by fiddling with the "L" screw. /Morten

Not to mention the longevity of the saw operator, who won't have to breathe in all the solvents and carcinogenic additives of classic fuel/oil mix.