morten
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Everything posted by morten
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The picture has been floating around the internet for a while. Source unknown. Google has located 7,500 copies of this image in various sizes on the web amazing tree - Google-search
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I don't think I'd feel good about driving the spikes into this one!
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There are quite a few apps doing exactly what you propose already, and they all sell for a few quid, at the most. Have a look at the list in this post http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat/33166-simon-says-laser-says.html#post532362 -
Without knowing anything about your local rates and competition, I'd say, that if you land 90% of the jobs you quote on, you are quoting too low. Especially considering quite a few decide not to have the job done at all (or doing it themselves), after getting quotes in. I'd say you should raise your rates about 20%, and then see how that affects the acceptance rate.
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+1 - better sharpness - sharpen anywhere (no need for power outlet nearby) - faster (except when chain is totally ruined) - handles any chain size - longer chain life (only remove the material required) - Easy - Cheap
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Same task could be done using one of the following iPhone apps (some must also exist for Android smartphones): How High or Far for iPhone, iPod touch (4th generation), iPad 2 Wi-Fi, and iPad 2 Wi-Fi + 3G on the iTunes App Store Clinometer - level and slope finder for iPhone, iPod touch, and iPad on the iTunes App Store U-Clinometer for iPhone, iPod touch, and iPad on the iTunes App Store seeLevel - visual clinometer for iPhone, iPod touch, and iPad on the iTunes App Store - all available for free or a few bucks.
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I'd use raw (untreated) linseed oil. It's food-safe, and has the advantage over other oils that it cures/hardens fairly quickly when oxidizing, sealing the surface somewhat, so it does not absorb quite as much of the food-stuff that is being processed in the mortar. Just remember wipe off excess linseed oil from the surface within hours of applying, as it will otherwise set.
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PVA will do. So will wax, or even raw linseed oil. Anything that will slow the evaporation by sealing the end-grain, without hardening the wood too much, potentially causing damage to wood processing tools
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Not so. A Tirfor may be used for lifting. The rating of a Tirfor TU16 is its nominal lifting capacity (1,600 kg), see http://www.honeybros.com/media/PDF/Tirfor-Brochure.pdf for details
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Possibly the fuel breather valve. Try briefly opening the fuel cap to let in air, when you experience the problem, and see if that fixes it.
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Full review is available here: Canon EOS 40D Review: 1. Introduction: Digital Photography Review
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Do you mean multi-tools like the Out On A Limb - To Buy The Ultimate Chainsaw Tool,*Click Here Some info on website. Check which spanner sizes and screwdriver types (flat/torx) and sizes are required.
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For a description of all models, have a look at Felco Secateurs The no. 7, 10 and 12 have the rotating handle. Didn't liked them much when I tried them, though
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The 260/261 is a "pro" saw. Stihl classifies them as "forestry" saws. http://stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Products/Chain-saws/Petrol-chain-saws-for-forestry/21775-130/MS-261.aspx
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+1 on getting a pro saw. The 25x, 29x, 39x series just isn't up to the job when used extensively. I'd consider the MS 261 or MS 362 (if you need more power, at the cost of additional weight and bulk).
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The staining, that will only occur in the sapwood, can be vastly reduced by felling before the sugary nutrients are present in the wood (i.e. october - april, depending on climate). That, and plenty of ventilation of the cut timber is the cheapest, easiest and most effective means of avoiding blue stain fungus.
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How much do you know about drug addiction/addicts? Claiming that drug addicts "have a choice" shows a fundamental lack of understanding of what drug addiction is all about. It reminds me of Nancy Reagan's campaign to "Just Say No". The untimely death of Amy Winehouse is as sad as the untimely death of anyone else. Even if it was not as surprising, given the track record of musician addicts that have died at the age of 27 27 Club - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Don't blame the media! They are in business to make a profit, just like I suppose you are. The (commercial media) will continue to publish what thorough marketing analysis has proven will attract most readers/viewers. Simple as that. Which is the reason that you'll continue to see celebs on the front page, for as long as we consumers want to read it. The only thing we can do, is to limit the medias' ability to violate the right of everyone to privacy, and to crack down when they break that right in their quest for front page material (ref "News of the World" and the rest of the tabloid media).
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Great initiative. But I can't seem to make the "comment" facility work. I just tried to add a comment on the bowline knot, but when I press [submit] nothing happens. My comment would have been... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I Can't seem to find the "bowline on a bight" a.k.a. "double bowline" that can be used as a termination knot as well as a midline knot. I frequently use this know for rigging purposes, as it can be tied in the middle of the rope (like an apline butterfly) and is easy to untie, even after heavy loads, especially, if you insert a crab "mid knot" (difficult to describe, let me know if I should add a photo). Forum rules prevents med from linking directly to examples, but here is a Google Search double bowline - Google Search
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Stihl have a 63PMX, 3/8" low profile, 0.050"/1.3mm gauge "Picco" chain, ground at a 10 degree angle for ripping. It can be difficult to get hold of, though, but is frequently sold with the Logosol mill. Stihl P/N (25", 84 drive links) 3999 000 0084. Note that it fits a narrow kerf bar made specially for the Picco chain. I have a 25" Duromatic E, 1.3mm/0.05" bar with Stihl P/N 3003 000 5531. Although you can operate using the standard 3/8" sprocket, you ought to use a "low profile" sprocket for the Picco chain. I guess the reasoning behind using a Low Profile chain for ripping is a narrower kerf (less removal/waste).
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Drift innovation now also produces an HD camera with additional facilities, such as time-lapse video (tripod maounted, recording hours of work, replaying in seconds). See HD170 for details Drift Innovation helmet cams have some benefits: They are rugged Waterproof Contain screen for reviewing video Wrist mounted remote Velcro mounted to helmet
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Means and Methods of Protecting Your Kit from Theft
morten replied to easy-lift guy's topic in Stolen Equipment
An alternative way of delaying thieves and increasing the chance of the theft being discovered is to lock down the high value kit (saws etc) using a cable lock alarm. To remove the kit, you'd have to either release the wire using a key, or cut the wire. If the wire is cut, the alarm sounds an ear-piercing alarm. See Amazon.com: Swann SW351-LAX Universal Cable Lock Alarm: Camera & Photo -
Yes the captive nut is good. But why not just make it the same size as the captive nut on the MS 261, which is the same size as the bar nut on every other Stihl saw out there? There MUST have been a good reason for the size change. I'd actually like to see a combi spanner that fits buth old style and 201T bar nuts. Whenever I need to remove spark plug, I'd be happy to look in my car for a different spanner.
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The gaffs can be really difficult to replace, since the torx (T40, I believe) screws are secured using Loctite, or similar compound. One way to ease the process is to heat up the gaff/screw using a hot-air gun. Careful not to overheat, though. That will soften the Loctite and make it easier to remove. Re-apply Loctite compound when securing the new gaffs. I have been using european style gaffs (like yours), and American style. I prefer the short American gaffs (also called "pole gaffs"), but on thick-barked pine trees, the long american style is required to reach the sapwood.
