morten

If you don't already have a website up and running, promoting your business, get one done now. Doesn' t have to cost you anything, but will halp getting business rolling in, once you are recovered. One free alternative is Welcome to Getting British Business Online Search this forum for alternatives, inspiration and help. I agree with the others advising to get a subby in to keep money rolling in and keep your loyal customer base loyal. I wish a full and speedy recovery for you.

The "Brute Force and Ignorance" approach will always exist, but kept at bay by the Evolution of Species while providing entertainment for the rest of us. All in all, a win-win situation

If you wrap the leather strap around the shank, the spikes are more firmly secured to the boots, and don't move as much.

Start a new thread with an appropriate title to get an answer, rather than hijacking an unrelated thread.

Consider getting a clinometer app for your smartphone. It's a LOT cheaper (some are free) and virtually as accurate (at least on the iPhone). Search the appstore for "Clinometer". For measuring heights and distances, I can specifically recommend: How High or Far for iPhone, iPod touch (4th generation), iPad 2 App Store - seeLevel - visual clinometer

I feel I have to comment on this one. "Mineral Oil" is a classification of any type of oil that is derived from petroleum (fossils). Paraffin oil would be safe to use, but as it is not a hardening oil (it doesn't harden when exposed to oxygen), it does not provide a protective surface, and will continue to stain surfaces that it is placed on. I suggest using a hardening non-mineral oil such as linseed oil or tung oil (both commonlu called "danish oil"). Linseed oil is also used for medicinal purposes and is thus safe to use, although some retail variants may contain additives (fungicides etc) which are unsafe. When applying hardening oils to wood, make sure you remove any oils that remain on the surface after an hour or so, as it may otherwise form a sticky substance, which makes sanding difficult. In any case leave to dry (harden) for several days before sanding. For further info on linseed oil, see Linseed oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Yes, it is slightly used. I know it's going to be more difficult than a new rope. I've read some tips about soaking the rope in fabric softener, to make the bury easier, but I'll have a go without first. Worst thing that can happen is that my rope gets shortened by 1.2m, which is OK. Crossing my fingers (until I start splicing, that is)

I am going to attempt making my first eye splice in my XTC Fire rope, but it is not clear to me which instructions on Yale's website I should be using (none of them state "XTC" or "16-strand", see Splicing Instructions | Yale Cordage ). Searching this forum is hampered by the fact that any search word less than four letters seem to be ignored, hence "XTC" is not a valid search term. I have found these two resources about splicing 16-strand Samson rope, which I assume will be equally applicable for the Yale XTC rope, but would like to know if anyone knows about other/better resources that relate to splicing the XTC rope, or any tips or warnings that apply to the XTC rope. From Samson website: Eye Splice 16-strand class I: And a video: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLTPZe2i8BA]16 Strand Arborist Splice.m4v - YouTube[/ame] I'll post pictures of my attempt unless it is a total failure

Opening the photo in an image editing program reveals that exactly 10% of the lateral fibres have been severed, leaving 90% intact. It would be irresponsible for anyone to recommend that you climb using the bridge. Such a decision would have to be made by the climber that would have to suffer the consequences of a failure.

Get customer's email address and send invoices via email. Saves stamps and envelopes, gets the invoice to the customer in seconds rather than days, and saves you a trip to the mailbox. In the last two years, I've sent all but four invoices by email. My invoicing system lets me send it directly, so no need to print to file and attach to email.

I don't agree. A fiddle block and a prussik will allow you to put 400 kg of tensioning on the lowering rope, which is ample for most uses.

When using the Stihl piston-stop tool, it should be pushed in towards the far end cylinder wall, see drawing (from service manual). Otherwise, it may be pushed back out, leaving plastic-shavings in the cylinder.

Fantastic piece of work. Thank you for taking the time to help everyone else out!

In Denmark, you cannot be admitted to the CS30/CS31 equivalent training courses without holding an up to date First Aid certification (which includes CPR). That solves the problem (for arborists, at least)

I can highly recommend a pair of Gecko Aluminium spikes, available for £190 + VAT. Lightweight and very comfortable, although I prefer them with leather straps at the bottom rather than velcro.

I carry a military-issue (CAT) tourniquet like the one in the picture below. That'll give me a chance of stopping arterial bleeding for long enough to make it to the ground. Everything else can be taken care of on the ground.

That is my understanding, too. No softwood, and no oak. Beech and Alder are my preferences.

For filler, you can also use a "P-tex candle", used for making repairs on alpine skis, see Jons Ski Tuning - Base Repairs But you need to clean and de-grease first, and open up the hole using a soldering iron. Alternatively, use a hot-glue gun for filler.

Are you planning a mod that'll make it go twice as fast?

The pulley is tending the friction hitch, so you don't have to (sorry for the derail of the thread)

How on earth do you read "waste product" in to the above sentence. Crude oil is the product used at the beginning of ANY refinery process. The alkylate process continues on where the normal petrol process ends, removing the most harmful (to humans) substances. I was posting a reference that includes irrefutable facts comparing the harmful contents in normal petrol and alkylate, and you dismiss the whole thing as "advertising blurb". Noone is trying to "win you over". If you feel so strongly about it, save some money and continue working the way that feels comfortable for you. Other people (myself included) apparently value our health higher. I certainly experience much less nausea working with Aspen than working (next to someone) using normal fuel/oil mix.

Straight out of the dictionary: Tend (verb)  tended, past participle; tended, past tense; tending, present participle; tends, 3rd person singular present 1. Care for or look after; give one's attention to - Viola tended plants on the roof - for two or three months he tended to business 2. Direct or manage; work in - I've been tending bar at the airport lounge 3. Wait on as an attendant or servant

I know that comparison isn't fair, but to be honest, I see no mileage in professional users buying 5L cans in the long run. My reference to the swedish price is just to show everyone how low the price could be, if taxes were to be removed and delivery made cost-effective (pumping stations). However, if 5L cans were my only choice, I'd still be using Aspen. I simply value my long term health too high not to. Do you have any plans to supply Aspen in 25L canisters in the UK? I guess it could lower the cost a little.

Yes, the distel (as you've tied it) is only meant to work in one direction. So no double-ended flipline usage with a distel. You should consider adding a small tending pulley to the setup. Eases one'handed usage.