morten
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Everything posted by morten
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Here is a link to a test comparing folding saws (Bahco Laplander to Silky Oyakata Saws). It might contain useful info http://www.oldjimbo.com/Outdoors-Magazine/Bahco-Laplander-VS-Silky-Oyakata.pdf
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Not quite true. Stihl do not allow their RESELLERS to sell their products in this way. They have no way of preventing anyone else from doing so.
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I agree that a decompression valve on a 50cc saw is not a big help, but if it's there, why not use it. As the manual states, you should open the valve before each attempt, also after the first fire with full-choke. I cannot see how the open valve could have anything to do with the flooding of your saw. If it had fired, the valve would have closed. My view is backed up by the Stihl Instruction Manual:
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I had the operation done three years ago. I could start working (ground) after 6 weeks, but it took 4-6 months before I was fully recovered for climbing. While your're recovering, get all the administrative work done, such as getting your website done/updated, getting Google Analytics up and running on your site, designing and producing posters and marketing campaigns, so you'll be busy once youre ready for prime time.
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If you don't already have a website up and running, promoting your business, get one done now. Doesn' t have to cost you anything, but will halp getting business rolling in, once you are recovered. One free alternative is Welcome to Getting British Business Online Search this forum for alternatives, inspiration and help. I agree with the others advising to get a subby in to keep money rolling in and keep your loyal customer base loyal. I wish a full and speedy recovery for you.
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The "Brute Force and Ignorance" approach will always exist, but kept at bay by the Evolution of Species while providing entertainment for the rest of us. All in all, a win-win situation
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If you wrap the leather strap around the shank, the spikes are more firmly secured to the boots, and don't move as much.
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Start a new thread with an appropriate title to get an answer, rather than hijacking an unrelated thread.
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Consider getting a clinometer app for your smartphone. It's a LOT cheaper (some are free) and virtually as accurate (at least on the iPhone). Search the appstore for "Clinometer". For measuring heights and distances, I can specifically recommend: How High or Far for iPhone, iPod touch (4th generation), iPad 2 App Store - seeLevel - visual clinometer
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I feel I have to comment on this one. "Mineral Oil" is a classification of any type of oil that is derived from petroleum (fossils). Paraffin oil would be safe to use, but as it is not a hardening oil (it doesn't harden when exposed to oxygen), it does not provide a protective surface, and will continue to stain surfaces that it is placed on. I suggest using a hardening non-mineral oil such as linseed oil or tung oil (both commonlu called "danish oil"). Linseed oil is also used for medicinal purposes and is thus safe to use, although some retail variants may contain additives (fungicides etc) which are unsafe. When applying hardening oils to wood, make sure you remove any oils that remain on the surface after an hour or so, as it may otherwise form a sticky substance, which makes sanding difficult. In any case leave to dry (harden) for several days before sanding. For further info on linseed oil, see Linseed oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Splicing Yale XTC (Fire) and other 16-strand ropes
morten replied to morten's topic in Splicing Forum
Yes, it is slightly used. I know it's going to be more difficult than a new rope. I've read some tips about soaking the rope in fabric softener, to make the bury easier, but I'll have a go without first. Worst thing that can happen is that my rope gets shortened by 1.2m, which is OK. Crossing my fingers (until I start splicing, that is) -
I am going to attempt making my first eye splice in my XTC Fire rope, but it is not clear to me which instructions on Yale's website I should be using (none of them state "XTC" or "16-strand", see Splicing Instructions | Yale Cordage ). Searching this forum is hampered by the fact that any search word less than four letters seem to be ignored, hence "XTC" is not a valid search term. I have found these two resources about splicing 16-strand Samson rope, which I assume will be equally applicable for the Yale XTC rope, but would like to know if anyone knows about other/better resources that relate to splicing the XTC rope, or any tips or warnings that apply to the XTC rope. From Samson website: Eye Splice 16-strand class I: And a video: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLTPZe2i8BA]16 Strand Arborist Splice.m4v - YouTube[/ame] I'll post pictures of my attempt unless it is a total failure
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Opening the photo in an image editing program reveals that exactly 10% of the lateral fibres have been severed, leaving 90% intact. It would be irresponsible for anyone to recommend that you climb using the bridge. Such a decision would have to be made by the climber that would have to suffer the consequences of a failure.
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Get customer's email address and send invoices via email. Saves stamps and envelopes, gets the invoice to the customer in seconds rather than days, and saves you a trip to the mailbox. In the last two years, I've sent all but four invoices by email. My invoicing system lets me send it directly, so no need to print to file and attach to email.
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I don't agree. A fiddle block and a prussik will allow you to put 400 kg of tensioning on the lowering rope, which is ample for most uses.
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When using the Stihl piston-stop tool, it should be pushed in towards the far end cylinder wall, see drawing (from service manual). Otherwise, it may be pushed back out, leaving plastic-shavings in the cylinder.
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Fantastic piece of work. Thank you for taking the time to help everyone else out!
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In Denmark, you cannot be admitted to the CS30/CS31 equivalent training courses without holding an up to date First Aid certification (which includes CPR). That solves the problem (for arborists, at least)
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I can highly recommend a pair of Gecko Aluminium spikes, available for £190 + VAT. Lightweight and very comfortable, although I prefer them with leather straps at the bottom rather than velcro.
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I carry a military-issue (CAT) tourniquet like the one in the picture below. That'll give me a chance of stopping arterial bleeding for long enough to make it to the ground. Everything else can be taken care of on the ground.
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That is my understanding, too. No softwood, and no oak. Beech and Alder are my preferences.
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For filler, you can also use a "P-tex candle", used for making repairs on alpine skis, see Jons Ski Tuning - Base Repairs But you need to clean and de-grease first, and open up the hole using a soldering iron. Alternatively, use a hot-glue gun for filler.
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Are you planning a mod that'll make it go twice as fast?
