morten
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Everything posted by morten
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The pulley is tending the friction hitch, so you don't have to (sorry for the derail of the thread)
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How on earth do you read "waste product" in to the above sentence. Crude oil is the product used at the beginning of ANY refinery process. The alkylate process continues on where the normal petrol process ends, removing the most harmful (to humans) substances. I was posting a reference that includes irrefutable facts comparing the harmful contents in normal petrol and alkylate, and you dismiss the whole thing as "advertising blurb". Noone is trying to "win you over". If you feel so strongly about it, save some money and continue working the way that feels comfortable for you. Other people (myself included) apparently value our health higher. I certainly experience much less nausea working with Aspen than working (next to someone) using normal fuel/oil mix.
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Straight out of the dictionary: Tend (verb) tended, past participle; tended, past tense; tending, present participle; tends, 3rd person singular present 1. Care for or look after; give one's attention to - Viola tended plants on the roof - for two or three months he tended to business 2. Direct or manage; work in - I've been tending bar at the airport lounge 3. Wait on as an attendant or servant
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I know that comparison isn't fair, but to be honest, I see no mileage in professional users buying 5L cans in the long run. My reference to the swedish price is just to show everyone how low the price could be, if taxes were to be removed and delivery made cost-effective (pumping stations). However, if 5L cans were my only choice, I'd still be using Aspen. I simply value my long term health too high not to. Do you have any plans to supply Aspen in 25L canisters in the UK? I guess it could lower the cost a little.
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Yes, the distel (as you've tied it) is only meant to work in one direction. So no double-ended flipline usage with a distel. You should consider adding a small tending pulley to the setup. Eases one'handed usage.
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And you wouldn't trust a schwabisch prusik or distel with a tending pulley?
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I work mostly in residential areas, and don't think it is a good idea to leave behind mineral oil in the soil of the gardens. And I use it in my promotional materials (and website) to indicate that I care about the environment. Don't know if it has any effect, but it may sway potential customers my way.
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A bit of factual information about Aspen can be found here: http://www.aspen.se/Files/PDF/Productsheets/Engelska/produktblad1_ENG_NEUTRAL.pdf
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I can tell you that last time I used one of the Aspen filling stations to refill a couple of 25 litre Aspen 2T canisters, the price was 20 SEK/litre, which equals £1.85 at current rates, which includes 25% VAT (deductable).
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In Sweden and Norway it is exempt from taxes, and has obtained a 50%+ marketshare (AFAIK)
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It will allow you to upload pictures, which Safari won't let you. The "Browse..." button is disabled preventing you from uploading
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Prusik - Assymetrical Swabich(Schwabisch)
morten commented on Steve Bullman's knot in Friction Hitches
I had trouble finding this knot by search. I am not sure, but I think the spelling "Swabich" is not correct. At least the spelling "Schwabisch" generates thousand times more hits on Google. Mind you, there are other spellings out there in the wild: Schwabish Swabish Swabisch Shwabish (and more) Anyway, this comment should hopefully allow them all to be used when searching the know guide. -
Stihl MS 660 - (are there any Stihl service guys out there!!)
morten replied to Canopy Tree Services's topic in General chat
@Spud: The service agent had said: "clogged up the Carb filter", which indicates that it was indeed the gauze filter being blocked, which I think could cause the saw to run lean, but it would have virtually no power, so I think it would be unlikely not to be noticed by the operator. -
The reason a prussic is not suitable is that it has equal friction in both directions, which makes one-handed tending difficult. That is why you should use a non-symmetric friction hitch such as a Distel Distel - Knots Guide | Arbtalk.co.uk or VT Valdotain - Knots Guide | Arbtalk.co.uk or even a schwabish prussik (1 + 3 turns) with a tending pulley. You can use a rope grab, or an ART Positioner, but it should be connected to the carabiner using a sling (or express-sling) to provide a cut-off point.
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I guess, if you don't value your own health and convenience high enough, Aspen isn't for you. You can keep shouting "emperer's clothes", but you are talking against scientific facts as well as thousands of users who believe and experience those facts about the health effects and deterioration properties of Alkylate fuels every day, and are happy to pay the price. But rather than saying you don't believe in the lack of solvents in Aspen, look into the difference between Alkylate and normal fuel, and you'll find that the Alkylate destillation (refinery) process has additional steps to sort out the lightest molecules including benzene and other solvents. That process is very well described, see Alkylation - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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If you end up getting professional advice on your logo I suggest you aldo get advice on colour scheme (colour of text, headlines, background) and typefaces (fonts) for the text. It all adds to conveying a consistent and professional image for your communication.
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Whoever makes the design still needs to be briefed about where/how it is to be used. A logo that should be usable in small sizes (business cards) as well as large (posters) and electronic versions (website) possibly requires either multiple designs, or a very simple design. If you want to be able to produce cut-foil versions of your logo to stick on vehicles and tools, and make cut-outstencils (spray paint), you need to keep the design very simple and single-colour (or two). Also - choose something that people will remember and can relate to. I ended up choosing an old oak tree (see my avatar) with my website name next to it.
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I quite like the look of the Stitch It Awl as an alternative to loose needles pliers and a sailmaker's palm. A bit pricey, but probably draws less blood and causes fewer blisters Anyone know of similar products, available in Europe?
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My bad, sorry!
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How are you going to use the saw, if the oil pump doesn't work? By manually oiling the chain every minute
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Who tuned it for you? The factory tuning is lean to comply with emission standards, rather than to deliver power. Richen up turning the "H" carb setting counter-clockwise. That has at least worked for many.
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I admire your self confidence! After asking everyone what they thought of the Mitox saw in this thread http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/35237-mitox-chainsaws.html and getting consistent advice not to buy it, you go ahead and buys one anyway. Credit for that. And on paper, the Mitox is very good value for money. But as everyone knows, paper specs don't mean much in the real world, where actual power, weight, antivibration, longevity and spares availability (also in two years time) matter. I look forward to hearing about the Mitox saw when you've actually put the cain to the wood. So far, it's all paper-spec talk.
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Won't fit. I have both types of combi-canisters. But you can get auto-stop spouts for the stihl combi-canister for both oil and fuel. See Filling system for fuel - (fuel) and Filling system for chain oil - (oil)
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For squaring off timber, the Mini-Mill is the deal. Much faster than the alaskan, see Mini Mill II | Granberg International
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I don't think your advise is sound, taking this statement into consideration: With two days use every year, a domestic Stihl or Huqvarna saw would last a lifetime.
