morten

Are you seriously suggesting that a 2-stroke diesel engine would be viable for a chainsaw? Think about emissions (and carcinogenic particles). I rest my case!

They are plain wrong in many of their arguments. Firstly, it is a renewable resource. So as long as you plant new trees to replace the ones that are felled, the CO2 emission will equal the CO2 absorption. Secondly, unless you cut down the trees, they will eventually fall by themselves , and during decomposition (fungi and insects) they will emit as much CO2 as if they were burnt. Thirdly, it is naïve to think that all threes that are currently used for firewood could be "made into useful things like tables, wardrobes, kitchens and flooring". The species chosen for firewood/energi production are typically not usable for much else. I would support a campaign that requires the plantation of new trees when clear felling, but such campaigns already exist, and regulations are in place in most civilised countries.

Sorry if I have derailed the thread, but whereas I can see emission controls forcing manufacturers towards 4-stroke engines for chainsaws (even though current 4-stroke small engines have more than their fair share of problems), I simply cannot see that a diesel engine will ever be developed that will have enough power at a low enough weight to ever be usable in a chainsaw. Correct me if i am wrong, but any diesel engine is bound to be a 4-stroke engine, so you cannot discuss diesel without invariably talking about 4-stroke engines.

I was merely saying that not all 4-stroke engines are uni-directional like the Honda. Neither did I claim that Stihl has used - or had any plans to use 4-mix engines on chainsaws. But future emission standards may change that. Oh, and I would claim that the FS 130R brush cutter is a pro model that uses the 4-mix engine. So which one of my claims are you opposing?

That does not rule out 4-stroke engines in chain saws. Stihl's 4-mix engines can be turned upside down while running STIHL 4-Mix Engine [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWZfRdm9u9c]4-Mix animation[/ame] The main reason for going to 4-stroke engine is emission and fuel economy. Power-to-weight ratio will be lower than 2-stroke for the foreseeable future, and with more moving parts.

That works out as a 50% increase (100 * 5 / 10)

Or even better the single speed Metabo BE 75-16 with a monster 75Nm (55 lb ft) torque. Lasts a lifetime

A few 51 mm (2") drill bits available on fleebay: auger drill bit 51 | eBay Mind you, they look more like forstner bits to me. But with a shank extension, they should get the job done

Would you care to elaborate about how "they've" overcome the increased weight of diesel engines caused by higher compression requiring more sturdy engine block?

Polywell is a dream about fusion energy power plants. How could that affect electric chainsaws in any way?

I believe that neither diesel, nor battery powered chainsaws will ever become mainstream for professional users. The reasons: Diesel: Weight. Diesel engines have to be heavier given the power requirements. Battery: Bulk, weight, power, price and recharge time. Bulk is getting better and may be fixed with new battery technologies (lithium-ion or newer technologies). Weight is getting better. Power can be achieved (look at the Tesla car), but at the cost of bulk and extremely high costs. But recharge time is going to be a problem. A pro saw have to be powered by a 3.5 HP = 2900 watt engine. You'll get about 5 minutes running time (at best) on a battery pack, and recharge time will be 30 minutes minimum. This means you can work 10 minutes every hour, or you'll have to have 6 battery packs for your saw AND have access to a recharger on the work-site. Don't believe it until I see it. For home owner saws with low power requirements and low duty cycle, sure. But never for pro users operating far from electrical sockets.

Another good app is "animated knots" available for iPhone and Android, App Store - Animated Knots by Grog It contains quite a few knots useful for climbing and rigging. Not free, though, like the website with the same knots http://www.animatedknots.com/

Have a look at this drawing (imagine yourself on the left hand side)... If you reach over even further, you can cut even thicker trunks

OK, I understand. If you reach over the trunk and make a cut with the bar vertical (on the far side of the trunk) first, and subsequently pull the saw towards you end proceed to cut with the bar horisontally, you'll easily cut a 24" trunk with a 16" bar standing on one side of the trunk. Let me know if you don't follow the directions, and I'll try to post a drawing.

It's dog poo! Great for measuring slope/angle of surfaces (walls etc), but no good for aiming at the top of a tree

For determining tree height, I recommend one of these (for iPhone): How High or Far for iPhone, iPod touch (4th generation), iPad 2 Wi-Fi and iPad 2 Wi-Fi + 3G on the iTunes App Store App Store - seeLevel - visual clinometer Both use the camera for aiming. A lot easier than sighting down the edge of the phone as you have to do using other clinometer apps.

What is the diameter of the trees? It doesn't seem worth the money and effort of new bar and chains for an extra 2 inches. You can easily fell and cut up trees with a diameter of 32" using a 16" bar. And if you rarely have to deal with trees of that size, don't bother with the longer bar.

I've been running an MS361 (earlier generation) with a 25" bar (3/8" full chisel chain). You have to nurse it a little, but it'll get the job done. Wouldn't plan to use this combination exclusively, though.

Might it not get stuck in the Cinch if pulled in under load, so you'll not be able to pull it back out?

Here is a video with a few stopper knots Video: How to Tie Stop Knots : Sailing Lessons Online | eHow.com

A figure-eight knot may work itself loose fairly easily (depending on the type of rope). I suggest using a double overhand stopper knot, see How to tie the Double Overhand Stopper Knot

Possibly gunked-up tank breather valve, causing vacuum in petrol tank. Try opening the petrol tank cover to relieve possible vacuum, and see if it starts.

Save yourself the trouble and offer the MS200 up for a swap to an MS200T of similar condition and age. That way two people get happy, and you don't have to purchase expensive spare parts and spend time ordering and mounting them.

What type of paint?

I would think that the biggest risk in using a top handle saw on the ground is the temptation to use the saw one-handed. Obviously, you have a lot less control when a kick-back happens, but the consequences when a kick-back occurs can be reduced by ensuring that the position of the saw is such that the kick-back will not hit the operator's head/body. Mind you, in the heat of the moment, such precautions are easily forgotten, so I'd advise against using a top-handed saw on the ground except in very special circumstances.