morten

Any smartphone in an Otterbox

Mind you, Oregon has been marketing a vegetable based oil called Arborol, that is supposed to be mixed 1:4 with water, but I know of no one using it. At sub-zero temperatures, you have to mix it with glycol-based antifreeze I have attached Orgon's sales blurp. Arborol_promo.pdf

- in addition it doesn't have the additives to make them tacky, so it will fling off the bar more easily. To me, the only acceptable alternative to dedicated chain oil (mineral- or vegetable based) would be food grade rapeseed oil, turning up the oiler to full. But the lubrication is still not as consistent, possibly resulting in more wear of bar and chain, and increased heat and possible nose wheel bearing collapse.

I was being sarcastic, when I suggested using water!

It is NOT chain oil. Have a look at the spec sheet http://www.ulei-mobil.ro/pdf/MobilIndustrieDataSheet/mobil_rarus%20427.pdf If you are trying to find the cheapest thing to put in the oil tank of your chainsaw, try using water. It won't work very well, but it's dirt cheap!

The Stihl bio chain oil not only contains additives to reduce the tendency to cure, but also contains additives to increase the viscosity, which means you can turn down the oiler and maintain similar lubrication properties. The same is true for most (if not all) other brands of vegetable based ("Bio") chain oils.

Using engine oil for chainsaw chain lubrication is not a good idea. Its viscosity means it will be flung off the chain resulting in reduced lubrication resulting in increased wear on chain and bar. Use mineral- or vegetable based oil specifically meant for chainsaw lubrication. It contains additives that increase the viscosity, and for the vegetable based chain oils also additives that reduce hardening/curing of the oil. If you use a lot of chain oil, and you rarely leave your saws unused for prolonged periods, you may consider food-grade (untreated) vegetable oil. Rapeseed oil seems to have the best lubricating properties (viscosity). Turn up the oiler to max setting to compensate for the reduced lubrication properties of the oil. Food-grade vegetable oils will harden/cure, possibly causing the oil pump to seize and filters to block. To reduce the risk, make sure to clean out the oil tank and replace with mineral oil before leaving saws unused for prolonged periods. Refer to this recent thread on using food-grade vegetable oil http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/52171-veg-oil-saws.html

Has been covered hundreds of times in this forum. Start by having a look though one of these threads: https://www.google.com/search?q=chain+oil+leak+site%3Aarbtalk.co.uk

Link to the thread http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat/51182-german-arboriculture-sawmilling.html

Doesn't markings on the bar specify drive link count (DL)? Most likely 84 (assuming 3/8"). See http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/ to find suitable chains

Spud, you are a champ!

Here is a link to the other thread discussing this plug http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/42977-help-ms-250-oiler-hole-next-exhaust.html

I agree with the others that you really should learn how to sharpen your own chains. In my opinion the easiest (and possibly cheapest) sharpening is done using this file-holder (available in many brands - Oregon, Stihl etc). Any brand will do, but be sure to get a set with a file diameter that matches your chain type (typically 3/8" Low Profile/Picco, 0.325", 3/8"). These sets are widely available, even online from one of the site sponsors: Chain sharpening tools Have a read here for further details: Chain sharpening I can also recomment reading the Oregon Maintenance & Safety Manual for Saw Chain, Guide Bars, and Drive Sprockets

Reading the Stihl "Carburetors" manual (PDF, 65 pages) will give you a good idea about how the different type of (Stihl) carburetors work and how to adjust and repair them. Lots of illustrations. Send me a PM if you need a copy. I don't think making it publicly available is "on".

Livigno, Italy, for a week in february. Great atmosphere, good skiing, and TAX FREE Might try on Telemark skiing this year. Looks cool, except when I'm doing it Looking forward to it. Not doing much climbing these days

I would try reading some of the existing posts on the subject https://www.google.com/search?q=tachometer+site%3Aarbtalk.co.uk

A natural progression from the prussik is the Blakes hitch Blakes Hitch - Knots Guide | Arbtalk.co.uk It is very similar in use, but has less tendency to bind. If you try it out, you should be aware that you should be using a rope of similar diameter to your main line (i.e. 13 mm). For experimenting, you can use the end of the standing part of your main line.

Parts list available here: http://www.worldoftrainz.com/Downloads/Files/Stihl/MS192T%20-%201137.pdf

Rob's website: alaskan mill I home of the portable chainsaw mill

+1 Shoelace tied as a loop to a small tool carabiner, clipped onto the micro pulley that advances the prussik. Shoelace is then tied as a prussik to the standing part of the rope. Easy, cheap and safe.

Yeah that's great. Same as to the ones that have been available in the alpine skiing cottages in northern Sweden and Norway. Mine is a £80 DIY version with an ebay locker and a small fan heater. Leaves boots nicely dry and warm

I use a 20' container as a burglar-resistant workshop, and need to prevent condensation as it will cause tools to corrode. I have reduced the humidity considerably and prevented condensation by mounting a small air extraction fan, driven by a solar panel (one unit, used on yachts). This will pull air through the container whenever the sun shines, which incidentially is when the outside humidity is lowest.

A good and cheap way to safely dry equipment, is to construct a drying chamber from a metal wardrobe cabinet/locker, cut a hole in the top and bottom plates, and use a small industrial heater to provide a forced downward airflow of 30-40°C (thermostat controlled) air past the clothing/ropes etc that hang inside. Lockers can be bought cheaply second hand.

For structural timber, nothing beats the Alaskan Mini Mill, IMO Alaskan Mini Mill and an appropriately powerful chainsaw with a ripping chain (Stihl MS 660 or similar). Unless, of course you have enough timber to justify a band saw mill, like a Woodmizer. EDIT: Didn't realize you were looking for "fully hydraulic saw". Sorry. But a Mini Mill will be able to handle trunks in hard-to-get areas, and turn them into structural timer. May need a hi-lift for lifting trunks off the ground, though.