morten
-
Posts
1,135 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by morten
-
The full episode guide can be found on History Channel's website Ax Men - Season 6 Episode Guide - History.com
-
To quote from the article: ... so only 18% of the heating energy will have to be converted to other sources over the next 15 years, or so. Quite achievable considering 1%/year.
-
Unlikely that any non-Norwegian's liability insurance covers work performed in Norway. Just saying...
-
No rule without an exception. The MS 650 is the only one, though and it is not marketed in most countries (UK - only?)
-
Strictly speaking, he is not threatening to do anything to your machine. He says you won't have any work for it. The only thing he is "threatening" to do, is taking away your customers, which in my book is called "competition". But I agree that he is out of order, and sounds like a right a... h... And for the record: A 0.75 x 0.75 x 0.75 m bag will hold exactly 0.422 m³
-
One more thing about the Stihl chainsaw (MS) model numbers. The second numeric digit (the "tens" digit) is an even number on pro (forestry) saws with magnesium crank case, whereas it is odd on non-pro (home owner/farmer) saws with a clam-shell style, plastic housed crank case. Examples: MS 201, 241, 261 are all pro saws MS 211, 231, 251, 271, 291 are all non-pro saws You can see comparative power/weight information on pro Stihl, Husqvarna, and other brand chansaws here: http://bit.ly/chainsaw-data
-
Some people! beech reduction, too much?
morten replied to Tony Croft aka hamadryad's topic in General chat
+1 -
Paradoxically, the Petzl Caritool will not easily be mounted on the Petzl Sequoia harness. I have had to use a cable tie to make it sit properly. If anyone have found a good way, please post a picture.
-
So to conclude, Stihl product codes are all based on a German abbreviations: MS = Motorsägen (Motorized saws) MSA = Motorsägen, Akku (Motorized saws, Battery) MSE = Motorsägen, Elektro (Motorized saws, Electric) HT = Hoch-Entaster (High-cutters, a.k.a. "Gypsy Stick") FS = Freischneider (Brushcutter) FSA = Freischneider, Akku (Brushcutter, Battery) HS = Heckenscheren (Hedge Trimmers) KM = Kombi Motor BG = Blasgerät (Blower equipment) FSE = Freischneider, Elektro (Brushcutter, Electric) KW = Kehrwalze (Broom) BF = Bodenfräse (Rotovator) GS = Gesteinschneider (stone cutter) TS = Trennschleifer (separation grinder) SR = Sprühgeräte (Sprayers) SG = Spritzgeräte (Sprayers) There are more, but I guess you get the idea, by now
-
Would be interesting for driving a mill (like the Alaskan). No need for chain brake.
-
Well, I disagree back at you If you use the correct file diameter, you won't have a problem. Simples! But I'd be happy to be proven wrong. Please show me a picture of a chain cutter which has been filed with the appropriate sized file, at the appropriate height, that has left too much material on the side plate. I simply cannot see, how this is possible. I agree. Which is why you may have to change to a smaller diameter file towards the end of the cutter to avoid filing too much into the side plates, weakening them.
-
Exactly! When using the correct diameter round file, there won't be any "gullet" to file out. This is a non-issue, unless you square grind the chain
-
Most people (I know) use a 5.5mm file, even for Stihl 3/8 chains. It makes very little difference. Towards the end of the cutter, some people reduce the file size to avoid filing into the tie-straps. Go with 5.5mm, and you'll be fine.
-
As with any 3/8" chain, use a 5.5mm (7/32") diameter round file. What else do you need to know?
-
jonesie has the 550 XPG for £487 inc VAT Husqvarna 550XPG chainsaw (50.1cc) | F R Jones and Son
-
Use washing liquid (or dissolved washing powder) with enzymes, and leave it on the rope for a few hours before putting it in the washing machine. Spin dry at LOW speed to protect the washing machine. The enzymes will work to dissolve the oil. If you wash it straight away, I doubt the oil will come out completely. I recommend daisy-chaining the rope after doubling it twice. Much easier to handle, doesn't get tangled up in the washing machine and dries quicker, as you don't have long sections without airflow Daisy-chaining video (annoying long intro): [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75XNCMKW7XE]How to daisychain a climbing rope | Arborist knot tying - YouTube[/ame]
-
Stihl RSC (Rapid Super Comfort), Full chisel, 3/8" pitch, 0.58" gauge, 72 Drive Links Stihl part no: 3622 003 0072 Alternatively: Oregon LPX, Full chisel, 3/8" pitch, 0.58" gauge, 72 drive links Oregon part no: 73LPX072E
-
But except for that, it's a great piece of wood!
-
Quite a bit heavier and bulkier than the MS260/261. See the spec comparison (power/weight) of Stihl, Husqvarna and other pro saws here: Chainsaw Data
-
To be honest, if Husqvarna recommends the drop test, it should be safe to do. You may not trigger the inertia break by dropping it on a tire, but if that works, it'll make less of an impact on the saw. And you probably don't want to do the drop test on a daily basis. Once a week or once a month should be sufficient. Oh, by the way... Sorry for contributing to the internet equivalent of a bar-fight
-
The inertia brake is triggered by a sudden acceleration of the saw. Please don't teach me O-level physics, unless you want to embarrass yourself any further! I did some digging around and can now quote the Husqvarna 346 XP Owners manual for you: http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSO/HUSO2010_USen/HUSO2010_USen__1153178-95.pdf Page 9: Page 31: That documents the link between the inertia brake and the drop test, as well as l link between the inertia brake and kick-back. Thus, I have provided a documented link between the drop test and kick-back. Q.E.D. Unless you come up with some support for your argument, I'll leave you to continue to embarass yourself. The one point I will concede, is that I frequently misspell "brake" as "break". I am not proud about that!
-
You are simply not making any sense. Sleep on it, or find ANY CREDIBLE SOURCE that supports your claims. The inertia test IS NOT to test what happens when the saw impacts. It is a way of simulating the sudden acceleration that happens when the saw kicks back (as the Stihl article clearly states). And: What are you on about "swing it as fast as I can under full revs" Who said anything about full revs? Why would ANYONE "put your arm in its path".
-
That assumes your left hand is at the TOP of the wrap handle. Most of the time it isn't, when you are not limbing, so your left wrist will NOT engage the chain brake handle. That is why the inertia break will provide some degree of protection against kick-back.
-
I am sorry to tell you, but you are WRONG, and repeating your opinions does not make them any more true. The inertia test will verify, that the chain break engages in case of a kick-back, i.e. when the saw accelerates suddenly. The Husky link you quoted earlier tells you how to do the inertia test. It doesn't tell you WHY you should do the test (to ensure chain brake stops the chain in case of a kick-back). This Stihl link does explain it, though: STIHL Quickstop® Chain Stopping System - Chain Braking System | STIHL USA
-
A warm welcome from the land of the Vikings Before posting a question, check whether that same question has been answered many times before. The arbtalk "Search" facility is very limited (example: you can't search for short words!), so I suggest using Google to find the discussion thread. To restrict search results to arbtalk, simply add this to your search term: site:arbtalk.co.uk Example: To search Google for threads discussing the Stihl RSC chain use this search term in Google: Stihl RSC site:arbtalk.co.uk This search is simply not possible using the arbtalk search feature, as it completely ignores the "RSC" part.
