morten
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Everything posted by morten
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The thing is: The saw has been working fine, suddenly started acting up for about an hour, or so while milling, and has been fine ever since (a week, or so). So whatever it is, it has rectified itself. I.e. a periodic failure. That is what makes it difficult to diagnose. But if I can get some ideas of what can be the root cause, I may be able to prevent it from happening. Could it be caused by dust build-up in the flywheel housing? I doubt it is carbon build-up, as I have only been running the saw on Aspen, but I'll check the spark-plug. Haven't been able to for the past week, as I have been lying on a beach in Mallorca
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Funny that it seems to have cured itself then. Could it be a problem that only manifests itself occasionally on a warm start? I'll check flywheel key and spark plug regardless.
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During a two day softwood (Spruce) milling session, I recently experienced severe kickbacks from the pull-cord, when trying to start my MS 660. The saw was warm at the time. At every attempt to start the saw, the pull-cord handle was nearly pulled out of my hand. Very unpleasant and painful. I used the decomp valve, and after every kickback, the valve was pushed out, indicating that ignition had taken place. The kickback repeated itself once during the two-day milling session, but otherwise I havn't experienced the problem. Any of you guys know what causes this unpleasant pull-cord kick-back, and what I can possibly do to prevent it? I can only guess at premature ignition, causing the piston to cause the crank to move backwards, thus pulling the cord. But why?
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But if alcohol works as well, and without any health issues, why take the risk?
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http://www.hpa.org.uk/webc/HPAwebFile/HPAweb_C/1194947317038 ... just sayin'
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... which is due to the alcohol content. Vodka would work as well In fact, I find the best, safest, one-step way of effectively removing/dissolving sap is using alcohol (any type: ethanol, isopropyl, methyl). I have a small spray bottle that I spray onto the affected areas, and then rub using a rag or cotton swab. I would NOT rub my skin using petrol or white spirit on a regular basis!
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This spares list provides you with part numbers, which may be helpful: http://www.ryobispares.co.uk/assets/applets/CM31.PDF 6691233: CHAIN BLADE 30MM (1-3/16") With this Google search, you may be a little closer to finding it: https://www.google.com/search?q=6691233+%22CHAIN+BLADE+30MM%22
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I'd say that 46" on a non-ported MS 660 is pushing it. I am occasionally milling large softwood (Spruce/Fir) with a 42" bar on the MS 660, and it is struggling. I guess a semi-full skip chain would help reduce the power requirements quite a bit, but skip chains are hard to come by this side of the Atlantic. Likewise would the Granberg Ripping chain, as it's sort of partial full-skip and therefore requires 20-25% less power all else being equal, see Granberg Ripping Chain In any case, contact Rob at Contact and he'll sort you out. EDIT: Is the nose-wheel .404" or 3/8"? That makes quite a bit of difference to the drive link count. As far as I can tell, the standard 46" bar is .404", see http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/products/sugihara-46-404-063-132-drive-links/
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witch are the best climbing irons /spikes to go for
morten replied to markrufrider's topic in Climbers talk
Carbon advantages: * Lower weight Aluminium advantages: * Adjustable length * Less expensive * Withstand the occasional walk across a paved surface. Carbon ones disintegrate if you do that. -
I made a photo of the plywood Mini Mill rail while milling four large Spuces during the past two days. Notice the three pre-drilled holes in the rail for fixing screws. Their position have been chosen to allow the Mini Mill to slide past. When fixing the rail to a flat surface, two screws in the rail is all it takes, though. Generally, I use an Alaskan Mill for the first cut, using an H profile ladder mounted using a couple of brackets, see this thread for details: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/alaskan-mill/46714-mounting-ladder-guide-bar-alaskan.html
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Sorry to barge in here. As a guide rail for the Alaskan Mini Mill, I am using a 5" x 2" (approx) beam constructed from plywood. It's very stable, and has no tendency to twist due to temperature and humidity. The plywood I use is made for flooring joists (3.6m) and has all plywood fibres running lengthwise. I have glued together two 40 x 63 mm making a guide rail of 40 x 126 mm (approx 2" x 5"), and attached the aluminium brackets that guide the Mini-Mill. Don't have a photo of the rail handy, but here's a photo of a 40 x 63 mm plywood flooring joist.
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Here are a couple of videos that shows the setup with Prusik and a slack tending pulley: Advanced climbing techniques | Prusik hitch with slack tender [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COnJtt4Jf-Q]Using a Prusik hitch advanced with a micropulley | Arborist climbing techniques - YouTube[/ame] You can use a piece of "shoelace" tied in a loop, rather than an ascender to attach the pulley to the standing part of your life line, as in this illustration (shown with a Blakes knot rather than a prusik):
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You should be aware that your maximum milling width using the Alaskan Mill Mrk III is about 6" less than the length of the bar. This loss is due to the clamping brackets, and especially having to clamp the nose below the sprocket. So with a 16" bar you are left with a maximum milling capacity of 10" (give or take).
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That is a 3/8" pitch chain: 0.375 = 3/8. You need a 1/4" pitch chain (0.250) for the MS 150T
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Have you considered Google Adwords, and having a website optimised for Google searches ( Search Engine Optimization (SEO) - Webmaster Tools Help ), so when people search for "mower repair" in your area, your website will show up? An increasing proportion of people look to Google when searching for local businesses rather than going to Yellow Pages or the classifieds in the local newspapers. And with SEO, the contacts are free, and with Google Adwords, you only pay for the clicks that potential customers make to go to your website
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The worst thing is that it doesn't help you with anything but the opening angles of the gob. Doesn't help with keeping the bar level, nor with lining up the hinge. I cannot believe those guys went into so much trouble to make something as useless. When has anyone been worried about whether the gob opening was 45° or 50° anyway?
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Very NOT useful!
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Fantastic job. Beautiful roof. I am very envious of you and your energy and patience. How did you cut the shingles, and what species of wood did you use? Any treatment of the shingles?
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Canon EOS 650D is incredible. Big 3" touch-sensitive LCD display, and a great zoom-lens (18-135mm IS STM) in the standard package. Very good value for money. See review: Canon EOS 650D (EOS Rebel T4i / EOS Kiss X6i): Digital Photography Review The recently introduced EOS 700D (similar specs to the 650) seems great, too: Canon EOS 700D/Rebel T5i Hands-on Preview
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I can agree with that assertion. Although you have to take into account what is provided by the increased taxation, such as universal free healthcare, education and unemployment benefits. It is a different way of organising society which has its advantages as well as disadvantages. But one thing is for sure: It leads to misuse, passivity and limits the desire to be an entrepreneur. Sorry for my pedantic and argumentative postings, and sorry for derailing the thread.
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The UK has a 20% VAT rate on most (not all) goods. Many other European countries have a 25% VAT on ALL goods. Likewise, the maximum income tax in the UK is 45% (above £150K), whereas many European countries have income tax rates of 50%-56% (at incomes above £60K). Source: Tax rates of Europe - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia An when it comes to fuel duties, the UK is not the highest, either. See Europe's Energy Portal » Fuel Prices, Rates for Power & Natural Gas for documentation. If you look at the taxation of cars, the UK is actually amongst the lowest tax rates (within Europe), see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_taxation So I have to conclude that the claim that the UK is the "most heavily taxed country" (your words) is far from being true. You could claim that Northern Europe is the most heavily taxed region in the world, which would be true.
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Do you have any credible source for that claim, or is it something you just make up for the occasion? United Kingdom is FAR FROM being the most heavily taxed country Tax rates of Europe - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia and w.r.t. regulations, please provinde a source for that claim.
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Scandanavian wide plank flooring in Logosol newsletter
morten replied to difflock's topic in Milling Forum
In the "old days" (1800's), floor boards in Sweden were all "kilsågad" (wedge-sawn), for the simple reason as to maximise the yield. Wood was relatively expensive, labor cheap, sawing a mainly manual process and therefore standardisation (parallel edges, standard dimensions etc) not important. The boards were just straight-edged and had whatever taper that the tree dictated. Each board had different width and different taper. The boards were simply laid down in alternating tapering direction, or whatever direction would give the "most parallel" edge. It looks really good, and gives the room a much more "organic" look. Here is a (Swedish language) article about how to lay "kilsågad" flooring Lägga ett kilsågat golv Here is a Google Translated version: Google Translate -
The duromatic bar has one big advantage over rollomatic bars, when milling with an Alaskan mill. As it has no nose wheel, the bar can be clamped very close to the end of the bar, adding about 5" of length, all else being equal. So in other words: The 25" Duromatic will cut plans as wide as a 31" Rollomatic. Just thought I'd let you know.
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The Aldi one cannot be converted into a rope puller, as the wire end is fixed onto the capstan, whereas the Maasdam Rope Puller grips the rope, but releases it after a half turn. See this Yank video of the rope puller (wrongly described as the "power puller by the "dude") [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MWdHX77Ba0]rope puller 002.MOV - YouTube[/ame] Only ever used it with a half-inch three strand rope. Works well if tended properly. More info and recommendations on rope (New England Safety Blue) here Bailey's - Maasdam Pow' R-Rope Puller. And here http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Cabling-Tools/Rope-Puller-1204 (The Maasdam Rope Puller Kit works best with 3-strand lines like Tree Master, but will work adequately with solid braid ropes like Arbor Plex, Tree Pro Red or True Blue. It tends to stretch the cover of doublebraid ropes like Super Braid Plus or Safety Blue High-Vee.)
