morten
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Everything posted by morten
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Depends on the conditions and what you are cutting. But if you are making boards from a log, I recommend cutting it in half (through the heart) first, for two reasons: 1. You will have a wider "land" for the Alaskan mill to rest on. 2. Any build-up of imperfections in the cut (wobble, dip at the end etc) will be minimized, compared to milling boards from the top.
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Mini Mill guide is fixed using screws. Pre-drill holes in the guide to make certain that they do not conflict with the Mini Mill itself. I suggest using screws with hex head (it doesn't matter if they protrude if located wisely), as Torx and similar will fill up with sawdust. I have attached a few photos of the ladder-bracket (for the Alaskan Mill). It needs to be about 4" wide, allowing you to lift one end of the ladder to saw parallel to the grain.
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I have done a fair bit of milling with both the Mini Mill and the Alaskan, and have found a way of mounting the guide rails that is fairly easy. For the Mini Mill, I have used a laminated floor joist (but I guess any plywood would do). I found that it was difficult to find a standard 6"x2" that was straight and would stay straight over time, but the laminated wood is very stable. For the Alaskan I use an aluminium ladder (actually two with different lengths), but rather than securing it with screws through the rungs (with the risk of sawing into the screws, and having to have a lot of different screw lengths available), I have constructed a small bracket that holds the ladder and is screwed into the log-end. If the log is long, I put a small wedge under one of the rungs halfway down, to prevent any deflection. Works very well.
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Bacho makes a sturdy stainless steel one with printing on both sides. I believe they exist in 5 and 8 meter variants, with imperial, imperial+metric and metric marking. Sold at £10-20. [ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-MTS825E-Auto-Reversible-Magnetic/dp/B001TN62MC]Bahco MTS825E Auto Tape 8m/26ft Reversible Magnetic Tip: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools[/ame]
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Google can help translating ... Tree work with Fällkran - the top firmly in control
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You can secure it with a cable tie through the small hole at the top of the CariTool.
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Release the chain break An impact driver is valuable. No need to even block the piston.
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Start raising your prices - you'll end up earning more by working less. As a rule of thumb, if more than 75-80% of your quotations are accepted, you are pricing too low. Others may disagree...
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Husky T536 top handled battery saw update?
morten replied to Old Mill Tree Care's topic in General chat
You should really try doing a video of it and posting it publicly. That way Husqvarna will HAVE to pull out their heads from wherever they are hiding them and come forward with a public statement about what they plan to do about future production, as well as what they will do with products already out there (procedures, retrofit, recall). -
I believe this is the picture you are referring to from the Bench post: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/33857-whats-your-bench-today-407.html#post916869 Left: GOOD. Middle: BAD FUEL, Right: LEAN (SEIZED)
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I suspect you may also need to use "Go Advanced" button below the text field in this forum when posting links that should be interpreted and embedded. This posting is made in "Post Quick Reply" mode ("Go Advanced" button showing), and I will try posting the same link (from the browser, but with the "s" removed from "https")... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qk2QtwoG3J0]Husqvarna T540xp v Stihl 201t - YouTube[/ame] =EDIT= It turns out it does NOT matter whether you post the link in Quick Reply mode or Advanced mode after all
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Had a similar problem. To get a "sort" link, click the "Share" link under the video (next to the Like link). That link starts with a http and uses the youtu.be host. Now, I'll just paste the link straight into the text field here... =EDIT= Well that did NOT work, now I will try using the link straight from the browser (on http://www.youtube.com) and remove the "s" from https... [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qk2QtwoG3J0[/ame]
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This is what Reg thinks about Husqvarna T540 vs STIHL 201T ...
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There are in fact a couple of devices that allow you to accept credit card payment without incurring any monthly fees, just a percentage of the payment. https://www.izettle.com/gb Intuit Pay Pricing | Credit Card Processing on Your Mobile | Intuit United Kingdom
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I recently got a set of SherrillTrees new Pocket Wedges for keeping the kerf open while milling. They are nothing less than ideal for that purpose The dimensions of the wedge is 77 x 38 x (2 - 12) mm. More info: Pocket Kerf Wedge by SherrillTree | SherrillTree.com
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Or a vacuum cleaner at the other end – works a charm! And with regards to putting in draw cords... No reason to put in more than one. Just remember to pull another one in alongside any cable that is installed, so you will always have a draw cord in the duct.
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Today, while ringing up an Alder, I struck no less than four nails, all buried more than 5" below the bark. I wonder what someone attached to the stem 14 years ago. It seems my 3/8" full chisel chain on the 20" bar on my MS 660 is somehow attracted to metal Good thing I have Save Edge files. Their aggressiveness saved me quite a few strokes on each of the 98 teeth all six times I had to sharpen the chain today
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Put it on eBay!
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Google the part number, and you'll find it's for an ECHO HEDGE TRIMMER HC-1500(36), see https://www.echo.dk/reservedelstegninger/ECHO/Haekkeklippere/HC-1500(36)_P014-002620-12Ib_EN.pdf
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I have been milling with an MS 361 with a 25" bar in the past. It's doable, but a little slow
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The L screw needs to be turned counter clockwise, which will also reduce the idle speed which you will have to compensate by turning the LA (idle) screw clockwise.
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I did mean "bad rap", as in "a negative and often undeserved reputation" stuff i just learned: Bad Rap vs. Bad Rep People that are happy with their saw are less likely to be vocal about it here, whereas people that are unhappy are. It is difficult to tell what the actual problem ratio with the MS 261 is by looking at negative posts. Most of us knows that some 261's have problems with the needle bearing, and it is not as quickly accelerating as the Husky 346/550. The more saws get sold of a certain model, the more negative feedback will be reported on it. In my book, the MS 261 is NOT a bad saw, and while I prefer the 346 XP for snedding, I prefer the 261 for cross cutting/firewood.
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Everything will run on Aspen 2T. Or if you mix yourself and use a good quality 2 stroke oil (Stihl HP Ultra, Husqvarna XP) the ratio is 1:50. In general, you should use the mix ratio specified by the oil, not whatever is specified by the machine, as it is the properties of the oil that makes the difference. But as I imagine the guy is not using all his machines on a regular basis, and couldn't be bothered to empty out stale fuel, I would highly recommend switching to Aspen!
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I agree. Metallurgy is a very complex science. Direction and size of the metal crystals are determined by the temperature and processing (hammering) done my the blacksmith. An axe milled out of a lump of mild steel would not be nearly as strong. A good read When a Metallurgist met a Blacksmith - John Aveson, Cambridge University; Gordon Bevan, blacksmith in Eltisley. - The Naked Scientists I happen to know that the blacksmiths at Gränsfors are quite happy to produce custom axes, provided they get a specification to work by. But communication and shipment may prohibit that from happening.
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But some times, without training, you wouldn't know what to look out for. Knowing in which circumstances a felling may turn into a "barbers chair" is not something that is immediately obvious. And the fact that some species (esp. Ash) is more likely to create a barbers chair is not either. And which techniques should you apply to prevent the barber's chair to occur? You'd need to spend a lot of time with someone experienced, or formal training to learn many things that are not intuitively obvious. When it comes to climbing with a chainsaw, preventing accidents becomes even more critical and difficult. Hence an even further need for formal training or on-the-job training, with someone experienced and knowledgable.
