morten

It's only the iPhone 5 that exists in "S" and "C" versions, in addition to the original iPhone 5. Functional differences: iPhone 5S has fingerprint sensor, better camera/flash and faster processor. Visual differences: iPhone 5S looks like previous iPhone 5, 4S and 4 with sharp edges and flat glass (partial) back, whereas the 5C has a plastic back cover with rounded edges, which can be had in many colours. By the way: the "C" supposedly stands for "Color".

Different friction hitches (and different variations/turns etc) require different lengths also. Why don't you start off with a fisherman's knot in each end, and adjust until you have determined the optimal length for your application?

Just found an online reference to which Carb Kits go with which STIHL saw models (and carbs), including STIHL and vendor (e.g. Walbro) kit part numbers. See http://servicesupport.stihlicademy.com/documents/ssd/JamesQuickGuide-42e3fbe1f61efccc28d09fcb3ba60b53.pdf (section "STIHL Technical Reference Guide 2012-01 – Carburetor Kits") and in case they remove the document, I'll attach a copy of it here JamesQuickGuide-42e3fbe1f61efccc28d09fcb3ba60b53.pdf

Thanks, but do you know what the contents of the kit were (which parts)? I'm located in Denmark, and postage from UK may make the kit prohibitively expensive and time consuming. My local Stihl pusher can supply parts in two days. EDIT: Just found out the official STIHL repair kit (WT-4) P/N 1121 007 1062: http://www.lsengineers.co.uk/set-of-carburetor-parts-stihl-part-no-1121-007-1062.html Now I know the contents

I have bought a slightly used MS 260, which has been sitting with stale fuel, which I suspect has caused the metering diaphragm and gasket to become glued together. The carb is a Walbro WT 426A. I am unable to get hold of a "carb kit", so I would like to know if which parts are usually included in a carb refurbishment kit. I suspect it will be something like... - 1120 129 0900 Metering gasket - 1113 121 4705 Metering diaphragm - 1120 129 0905 Pump gasket - 1121 121 4801 Pump diaphragm (the fuel strainer 1114 121 7800 is perfectly clean) Does STIHL have a separate Part Number for the "kit"? Thanks in advance. PS: Any one know what the password is, that allows you to Copy text from the STIHL Parts List PDF documents? Pls send PM, if it shouldn't be shared publically

Pictures, or it didn't happen

Try contacting Træfældning, træpleje og træservice i Taastrup, København - Henrik Ravn Træpleje For a Google Translated version of the website, refer to: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=da&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.henrikravn.dk%2F&edit-text= PS: I am in no way affiliated with above company

Out of interest... which STIHL model (e.g. MS 250), and what kind of chain (3/8" Picco, .325", 3/8")?

I use a 25" thin kerf (1.3mm) STIHL DUROMATIC E bar with a 3/8" Picco chain on my MS 660 for milling. The STIHL part numbers are: 25" DUROMATIC E bar: 3003 000 5531 7-pin spur sprocket (Picco Z7): 1122/06 The duromatic bar (no nose sprocket) allows you to clamp the Alaskan mill close to the end of the bar nose, giving you a longer effective cutting length. But to be honest, you don't save that much kerf width from using a 1.3mm kerf Picco chain, as compared to a regular 1.6mm kerf 3/8" chain.

Added to http://bit.ly/chainsaw-data

I have just added the KWF Power (kW), Torque (N) and Weight/Power figures from the reports to the table. TimberCutterDartmoor: If you can find a source of an objective measure for reliability, I would be happy to add that alongside the rooster-egg column Still available on http://bit.ly/chainsaw-data

Is he doing a good job? Has he promised you to achieve certain metrics at some point, e.g. your website amongst top-five search results in your area with certain search terms? Remember, that if you want to check the status of your web site in Google searches, you must use the browser's "private"/"incognito" mode when performing the search, as the results will otherwise be influenced by what you have previously searched for and clicked on (likely your own website), thus skewing the results.

Shortly after setting up my website, I ran an AdWords campaign for about half a year, with a budget of roughly £5/day. The campaign generated about 5 clicks/day, leading to about two contacts (by mail/contact form/phone), which in turn generated about one job worth an average of £150. So for me it worked great with a marketing cost of about 3% of revenue generated. I stopped when organic search results (i.e. normal Google searched) generated sufficient traffic to keep me busy. Be certain, though, to set a budget on your campaign, and to limit it geographically, so you don't pay for clicks from potential customers too far away from you. Also make certain to choose your keywords carefully, to avoid getting clicks from people who just want to learn how to fell a tree themselves or similar. But you should never stop doing your Search Engine Optimization (SEO) for your website to make sure you appear in the top-ten results on relevant Google searches (e.g. "felling tree yorkshire"). My website consistently appears in top-three on my key search terms. Carefully analyse the traffic on your website using Google Analytics (free) and Webmaster Toolkit, and read the SEO guide that Google publishes, see http://static.googleusercontent.com/media/www.google.com/en//webmasters/docs/search-engine-optimization-starter-guide.pdf

But unless you have better quality information that is publicly available, that is the best comparison that can be made. Do you have such information available? I made a similar comparison of power/weight etc for pro-type saws some time ago, which is available here: http://bit.ly/chainsaw-data

The only reason I did not go with a single front wheel is that I need to push/pull it up a ramp set onto a trailer, without having to keep it balanced on its rear wheels.

Try Guide bars

Nice, simple product Another benefit from having an add-on winch is weight, when not using a winch. The vast majority of lowering operations do not require a winch, and having it separate allows you to have a single lowering device without having to carry the additional weight of a winch when not requiring it.

The splitter head looks a little blunt to me. A little sharper would be an improvement IMHO

I did consider mounting a caravan mover add-on, but at those prices, I'm happy to push by hand Caravan Movers Online - Compare Caravan Movers

Not at all. It balances fairly easily on the rear wheels, so just push down on the infeed chute, and the front wheels lift and allows you to turn easily. But the front wheels allows you to push along over bumps without having to balance the 400 lbs machine all the time. Anyway, it has made my life a lot easier

I considered using a single wheel, but as I need to move it up two ramps onto a trailer, and I did not want to have to keep the balance on its rear wheels, I thought double wheels were better. And I have not experienced any stability problems.

I recently purchased a GreenMech CS100 chipper, and has been very happy with its performance, except for one thing. Its maneuverability is not very good, especially when moving over bumps, steps or up ramps. So I decided to replace the front-"foot" with a set of wheels. These makes the chipper a lot easier to move around, and up steps. It is also easy to pull/push it up ramps (onto a trailer, or up steps). The wheels don't turn, but that is not a problem, as it is easy to tilt the chipper back, lifting the front wheels. Only problem having front wheels is to make sure it does roll down slopes, but a small log fixes that (although I may consider some sort of wheel-brake.

Both the Zillon and the ZigZag seems to be a brilliant design that has been poorly implemented/engineered. Once the reports of fractures stop appearing (MK 3, 4, 5, ...), I will surely get them to replace my ART LockJack and ART Positioner (in that order).

I'm happy that I'm on an ART Positioner. No fracture/safety problems that I know of.

As above. Must be applied on fresh cuts, for the Glyphosate herbicide to be transported into the root system, thus killing it.