morten

They have beefed up the links, to prevent cracking (see attached photo comparing mk 2 with mk 3). Information obtained from Petzl notice: http://178.237.111.13/files/all/all/communication-zigzag/ZIGZAG-information-031114-EN.pdf

"Stove mix" a.k.a. Stuff that burns

OK, the caged needle roller bearing for the MS 261 has dimensions 10 x 14 x 13.5 mm (internal diameter, external diameter, length). But I have only been able to find bearings with Polyamide cages (typically designated "B 10 14 13.5 TN", where "B" designates "Cage with one row of needle rollers" and "TN" designates "Polyamide cage"). If anyone can identify sources of this bearing with a metal cage, please post info/links. PS: This should have been posted in a separate thread –*sorry for the derail!

Mine were badly cracked and falling to pieces, so really needing to be changed

Any idea where to source suitable metal-caged needle bearing for MS261 from? And/or manufacturer or specs (dimensions). I would really like to get hold of a couple.

I have a small 5kW Morso 1410 (Squirrel) stove for ten years, burning about 10m3/season. Changed the stones this year, as they were all cracked – probably due to trying to fit too big logs inside and forcing the doors shut for the first couple of seasons. I now ensure that log lengths are no more than 10". The bricks should have been changed a couple of years ago, really. So they should probably last about 50-100 m3 logs.

I have found that wrapping the leather strap one turn around the upright before fastening it in the buckle, they will not slip. See picture.

To my knowledge, the Meta tags (hidden HTML code within each page) are NOT considered any more by Google's search engines for page ranking, as they were frequently misused (porn etc). Meta tags, however, ARE used for presenting in the search results. The places where Google will look for search terms are (in prioritised order): The host name. e.g. http://treesurguryglasgow.co.uk will match "glasgow" as a search term The URL path. E.g. http://mytreesurgery.co.uk/area/glasgow (will match glasgow as a search term) The page title (what appears in the tab/window title). Appears in the <title> tag. Page headings (headlines in the page). Appears in <h1>, <h2>, ... tags Remaining page text Your ranking will also be improved based on how often people click on your page when it appears in a Google search, and how many (credible) links from other sites are found to your site, and how high ranking those other sites are. Read Google's SEO starter guide for more info: http://static.googleusercontent.com/media/www.google.com/en//webmasters/docs/search-engine-optimization-starter-guide.pdf

Photo extracted from Flickr

Oregon and STIHL ripping chains are basically standard chains that are sharpened with a 5-10 degree top plate angle, whereas the Granberg chain has has the top plate ground off on two out of three cutters, which means it requires less power to drive, causing it to cut faster (AFAIK by about 20%). When it comes to STIHL vs Oregon: Same as for standard chains. The STIHL chains have a thicker layer of chrome plating, making them harder (more wearable), but also harder to sharpen.

There are LOTS of information in an image that can give clues about possible "doctoring". The image itself can be analysed with regards to contrast, color tones etc in key areas, and (as you mentioned), recreating/staging perfect lighting is very difficult. Furthermore, an electronic image typically contains a lot of meta data, which contains information about recording equipment, date, exposure etc etc (for JPG photos, these metadata are called EXIF). If these data are missing, it is suspicious, but of course they can be "doctored" as well. Basically it all comes down to this: If you want to cheat forensic (digital) specialists, you have to be at least as clever as they are

Lots of anvils available on Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles, Coupons and More | eBay (new and old, light and heavy)

Let me know if you need a Service Manual. It will tell you exactly how to do the repair. Send me a PM

I believe it is fairly easy to measure the actual ethanol content in petrol yourself, by the method described here: How to measure the ethanol content of gasoline As a side benefit, I would think it would be possible to actually separate the ethanol/water mixture from the pure petrol on a bigger scale, thereby "purifying" the petrol. Any thoughts on that? (in any case, I will be sticking to Aspen/MotoMix Alkylate fuels, myself)

I have experienced similar trouble on an occasion, milling with an Alaskan mill. It turned out that the bar clamps on the mill were not evenly tightened, causing the bar to be slightly tilted. I had to push very hard to make any progress at all, and was only producing very fine dust, and the bar/chain was getting very hot. Loosening the bar clamps, and re-tightening (checking that the bar was flat on the bar clamp solved the problem. But it took about an hour before discovering the real cause of the problem.

Did you really pay £12 per click for Google Adwords? I have heard about costs between £0.30 and £1.50 per click, and have paid up to £1 per click myself a few years back. You know you can set a maximum price per click on Google Adwords, right?

PM sent

... and four times a day if you are milling

PM sent

Are you using the SRT version with chest harness? My Sequoia (old generation, DdRT version) harness gets pulled down by any saw heavier than my MS200T. It might be due to my not-so-athletic body shape

But with Google Adwords you only pay for the clicks that are made. No fixed subscription/entry fee, or impression fees at all. And you can set your own daily cost budget, as well as turn off impressions of your ad within minutes (e.g. when busy or on holidays etc).

The sequoia is light and comfortable. But may not be everybody's cup of tea. You really need to try it, to see if it suits you. You should also consider the Treemotion harness. Heavier, but with many more adjustments (to make it fit you), tool strops, etc.

I think the arguments are going full circle here. I believe we are all in agreement, really. I have never claimed otherwise. In my very first post, I compared "raw" rapeseed oils with rapeseed oils with additives to reduce oxidation and increase viscosity. I never compared rapeseed oils to mineral based oils. In this comparison, I pointed out that storage may be a factor: Furthermore, not all professional equipment gets used all year round. As an example, my pole saw gets used only very infrequently, and consequently, I use mineral based chain oil for that saw. Some of my other (professional) saws occasionally sit on the shelf for weeks or months, and I don't like having to remember to empty and clean the oil from the saws, as I never know how long the saws will stay unused for. As I read the comments from the "chainsaw repair" guys on this forum, they repair chainsaws from professional users that have "gummed up". So it seems to be an issue with professional users. These are most certainly caused by vegetable based oils, which could be untreaded (or badly treated) rapeseed oils. Wouldn't it be valuable to find out what kind of oils causes most "gumming up" problems? I certainly think so. There is no doubt in my mind that, all other things being equal, Bio chain oils (AFAIK, all rapeseed based) with viscosity additives and anti oxidant additives have superior lubrication properties and less/slower "gumming up" properties than untreated ("raw") rapeseed oil. That is likely to be the reason why the manufacturers go to those lengths to add those additives to the rapeseed oils. On the other hand, you can buy untreated rapeseed oil considerably cheaper than "official" bio chain oils, and your chainsaw usage patterns supports the use of untreated rapeseed oil, I wouldn't dream of discouraging the use (and never have been). I see this as a very relevant discussion, not a "fight". If I have made that impression, I am sorry.

I agree with the above One of the owners I quoted expressed experiencing trouble with rapeseed oil (lack of lubrication), and it would be easy to find many more. Mileage may vary depending on usage patterns (frequency, storage etc), oil type used (rapeseed, sunflower etc), additives (as you state). What I was trying to point out, is that you need to be aware of the repercussions of using bio oils, whether they are "raw" or sold specifically for use in chainsaws, and what is suitable for one person is not advisable for others.