morten
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Everything posted by morten
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Which supports my argument, that using raw vegetable oil should not be universally recommended. With regards to storing saws for extended periods with oil and fuel: It isn't a problem if you use Alkylate fuel (like Aspen and STIHL MotoMix), and either mineral based, or bio oil with added antioxidants (e.g. Stihl BioPlus), which I have done myself for more than 5 years now.
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OK, Two observations And I can find observations from the use of raw vegetable oils, that "gummed up", "nosewheel of a saw blows up", "2 top handle chains snap in a row". As I have said before, I don't disbelieve your experience, I am just saying that it is not necessarily universally useful, as other users have had less success than you. The first three posts that came up when searching this forum:
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Thanks for letting me know that it is nonsense. However, please let me know why you think that bio chain oil manufacturers are going to such lengths to reduce oxidation by adding expensive additives to their oil, as well as to increase the viscosity to improve lubrication properties. While you may believe that your chains are being well lubricated using rapeseed oil straight from the supermarket shelf, it may be that your chains and bars are being worn out quicker that they would be if you were to use oil with higher viscosity. I am in no way discounting your personal experience using straight rapeseed oil, but do you honestly believe that your one observation is more valid than many oil manufacturers' research (including the research paper I linked to)?
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Bio chain oil is generally produced from rapeseed oil, and to avoid the "gumming up" issues caused by oxidation, it has additives to prevent (slow down) the oxidation process, as well as additives to increase its viscosity to prevent it from being flung off the chain as easily. If you use plain rapeseed oil, straight from the supermarket shelf, you are likely to experience lubrication problems (due to low viscosity) as well as "gumming up" problems, especially if you leave your equipment inactive for prolonged periods. Some bio chain oil manufacturers may be doing a better job of preventing oxidation (and increasing viscosity), so I advice getting bio oils from a reputable brand (e.g. Stihl, Oregon). In any case, if you experience problems, change the brand. For information: Several countries (e.g. Australia) have completely banned the use of mineral based chain oils.
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Bio chain oil is generally produced from rapeseed oil, and to avoid the "gumming up" issues caused by oxidation, it generally has additives to prevent (slow down) the oxidation process, as well as additives to increase its viscosity to prevent it from being flung off the chain as easily. If you use plain rapeseed oil, straight from the supermarket shelf, you are likely to experience lubrication problems (due to low viscosity) as well as "gumming up" problems, especially if you leave your equipment inactive for prolonged periods. Some bio chain oil manufacturers may be doing a better job of preventing oxidation (and increasing viscosity), so I advice getting bio oils from a reputable brand (e.g. Stihl, Oregon). In any case, if you experience problems, change the brand. For information: Several countries (e.g. Australia) have completely banned the use of mineral based chain oils. You can read more about oxidation here: http://tribolab.mas.bg.ac.rs/radovi/2008_05.pdf
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You should also consider a multiSAVER which basically just a light-weight adjustable cambium saver is considerably cheaper.
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Telling the difference between double braid and 16-strand ropes
morten replied to morten's topic in Splicing Forum
Quite a few static kernmantle arborist ropes available, see http://www.sherrilltree.com/site/pdfs/Climbing_Rope_Chart_Specifications.pdf In general, I believe all grizzly spliced ropes are kernmantle construction. -
Telling the difference between double braid and 16-strand ropes
morten replied to morten's topic in Splicing Forum
OK, got it, thanks. And kernmantle is at the other end of the scale, with the inner braided core bearing the majority of the load, and the cover acting mostly as a protective sheath, right? -
What is the easiest way of determining the construction of the rope? Occasionally, I am unsure whether a rope is a double braid, 16-strand or other construction. Any step-by-step guide that will ease identification of the construction? The reason for asking is that the splicing methods are quite different between the two above mentioned types
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To conclude... 1. The pitch of the chain (3/8" LP/Picco, .325", 3/8, ...) MUST match the pitch of the drive sprocket as well as the nose sprocket of the bar. 2. The gauge of the drive links of the chain MUST match the gauge of the bar. 3. The pitch/gauge SHOULD match the power of your saw (Very low power: 1/4", low power: 3/8" Low Profile/Picco, medium power: 0.325", high power: 3/8", very high power: 0.404"). You should probably get a chain/bar combination that suits your current drive sprocket, which would most likely be 3/8" Picco, 1.3mm gauge.
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A challenge for the collective strength of Arbtalk
morten replied to GardenKit's topic in General chat
Possibly no evidence specifically of chainsaw fumes, but the health effects of Benzene are well documented: Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benzene#Health_effects World Heath Organisation: http://www.who.int/ipcs/features/benzene.pdf Cancer.org: Benzene EPA: Benzene | Technology Transfer Network Air Toxics Web site | US EPA HSE: http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg329.pdf UK Government publications: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/benzene-general-information-incident-management-and-toxicology How much more evidence do you need -
A challenge for the collective strength of Arbtalk
morten replied to GardenKit's topic in General chat
Here is a short-link to the petition. Paste that in anywhere, and it will automatically redirect to the change.org petition: http://bit.ly/alkylate -
I would screw it in place rather than nailing. The hammering might get them unnecessarily excited
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Completely agree with this. Prevent water from entering into the hive, and protect against draft as much as possible. The biggest danger for the bees in the near future (the next four months) is getting cold. The bees collect in a small ball with the queen at the center, and keep warm by burning energy (stored honey). If the colony becomes too small to keep warm, or run out of honey, they will die. The bee colony will reconstitute the hive next spring (when daytime temperatures exceed 10°C), when the worker bees start collecting pollen and nectar and the queen starts laying eggs again. The cannot be moved at this time of year, and will not attempt to relocate (swarm) either – way too cold.
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What about asking Steve if it would be possible for the Arbtalk forum to "sponsor" a high-visibility ad displayed at the top of the forum (where ads usually appear). The only thing required is a suitably sized image to appear to promote the petition. If it were to run for a few weeks, it might generate the required visibility amongst the Arbtalk members to lead to a considerable number of new signatures. Although I use Aspen (and occasionally STIHL MotoMix) in all my equipment, I have chosen not to sign the petition, as I an neither UK citizen, nor residing in the UK, which means my signature shouldn't count
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I make certain that the infeed chute is completely empty before shutting down. I use a broom that is a little wider than the drum, which allows me to clean the chute as well as pushing down bramble and such down to the drum. Never had anything stuck, luckily.
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Funny... Recently, my MS 261 started throwing chains off the bar, and I noticed a wobble on the clutch drum also. Assumed it was the needle bearing at fault and changed it, which made it a little better, but still not good. It turned out that it required a new clutch drum to fix it! Have you ever experienced that problem? (the clutch drum hole becoming bigger because of wear from the needle bearing – I assume). It is the first time that I change the needle bearing on the saw, and the original sprocket doesn't have much wear, so the saw hasn't run that much. Not a big deal, really, although for a while, I was afraid that it was the crank that was worn
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Have you considered crowd funding? You could set up your project on kickstarter.com or similar. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get lots of pledges for funding that way.
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PM sent
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I already sent a copy of the service manual
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When burning wood in the small Morso's (14xx), you should leave the bottom air vent (primary air supply) closed. It is meant for solid fuels (coal) only. You may leave it open initially, to help start the fire faster, though. See http://morso.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/72144600-1410-1440-DS-EN_UK.pdf
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Hope this helps...
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I can highly recommend the Morso 1410/1412 cast iron stoves. Compact and very efficient. Morsø 1410 Squirrel - Morsø Making Life Warmer Morsø 1412 Squirrel - Morsø Making Life Warmer They are priced around £600-800 http://www.bowlandstoves.co.uk/acatalog/Morso_Stoves.html
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I believe you can find parts lists and exploded assembly diagrams of most Morso ovens by searching Google. Here is one for the Morso 1410 Squirrel http://www.morsona.com/Files//Files/PDF/Manuals%20USA/72145200%20-%201410_USA.pdf There are different variants of the ovens (with identical numbers). My 10 year old 1410 has two separate hinged doors.
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What type of ear defenders do you wear on your helmet
morten replied to JosephD's topic in General chat
You can't just add db (decibel) values together like that, as it is a logarithmic scale, where a 3db increase corresponds to doubling the noise reduction (in this case). So 29db ear defenders are twice as good at blocking out noise as 26db defenders. So if you add 35db plugs to 26db ear defenders you end up with a collective level of 35.5! See Adding acoustic levels
