treequip
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Everything posted by treequip
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Where did you get the valve? Not all valves are spooled alike
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When you say lever did you put a new lever on the valve or have you changed the valve? If you have changed the valve disregard the previous post
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It sounds like the valve on the splitter is going "closed centre" and the tractor is kicking out on the overload The valve on the splitter would normally be open centre meaning that when in the centre position the oil would normally flow uninhibited back to the tank If the spool isn't centring properly it can go closed centre and this would cause the problem you describe. If the problem is occurring while you operate the lever then the spool is going too far and causing the problem.
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Or you could nail bits of wood on like the kids do, I deal with nail infested trees on a daily basis and the seem to be OK on it:laugh1:
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And for another perspective, I sold a welder on eBay, it was tested before it left me and was A ok. Buyer said it didn't work and parts were missing, he couldn't back up the missing parts and it didn't work because when he collected it he put it in his car upside down and bounced it home. He asked eBay for his money back and they said no, it's all about how you handle the dispute.
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Is that a name or the estate agents description?
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The fact that its running on its own oil but only for a short time points to valve seals and seats. Its probably dropping a bit of oil in but not enough to cause a self perpetuating run on.
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Its pants. If you have a bit of dirty timber it is just about OK If you hit anything hard in the timber you risk loosing some or all of the carbides Nearly impossible to sharpen in the field (perhaps with a portable grinder?) and only with a green grit grinding stone in the workshop.
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I kill a fair few, that would make your barber Sweeny Todd
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Arborist is way too pretentious. Our customers have gardens full of trees not arbs I am a tree cutter A bit of the top, short back and sides or euthanasia its all the same to me.
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What he said, mine does rads and hot water
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That's a fine piece of craftsmanship and far to nice to be outdoors.
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I have seen many brit tips old and new. They are well specked and well built. You wont go wrong with it on the tipper, somewhere to put your elbow, now there is another issue altogether
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:laugh1: Them Matty forwards it out with the tractor and trailer leaving muddy ruts to fill with water that WILL be 1 inch deeper than your boot is high:laugh1::laugh1:
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Nice,........... then you spank up the saw and all the wildlife fleas to the next valley, you cant smell the flowers any more because you have trampled most of them into the ground and the smell of sweat overpowers it. You don't have time to look at the view, got another three loads to get out. Oh well that's logging for you:laugh1::laugh1:
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The Husky cap is fundamentally what it always was, they have just changed the sticky uppy bit of old to a flippy uppy bit of new:thumbup1:
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Climber looking for work in Darwin, May onwards
treequip replied to ads9's topic in International Arborist Forum
Cant help with the work but if you scan read the title it looks like you are seeking work in the Darwin awards:laugh1: -
Was it a bit too big for you:laugh1:
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The point I was making was the price of the valve, it wasn't meant to be a like for like example
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I am on a couple of mailing lists Simon. What are you looking for?
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£150 to maintain a saw £15 would be more like it
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Gonna have to call BS on that, my "slightly modified" Discovery is a tipper that I built myself and NFU insure that.
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I just googled engineers report and found someone local. See if you need one first, I only needed one because I changed the wheelbase and bodywork.
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Noooo Its Germany, they are on the metric system. They would be 15.240cm nails:laugh1:
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I fix a fair few chippers and to be honest I don't think that's out of the way money. As a punter I would want a timely and permanent fix and the sure fire way to do that is new parts. Fixing costs but having a cutting gang looking at a chipper that wont work is even more expensive.
