josharb87

Because the way it attaches. If the nuts loosen (which they done for fun when it was new) and you have the basic strop anchor, you end up putting some force on the saw aswell as the winch. The direct fitting onto the clutch drum is strong so the play goes to the weak point - the roller bearing The mini guide bar fitting was ok but pissed oil down you're leg, even with oiler turned down

I've used one, the wire rope is crap, get rid of it ASAP, just bird nests into a tangled kinked mess. Bit of a faff to get it setup (everything seems to loosen and need re tightening for the first few hours use) the direct drive attachment if you're not carefull and set it wrong, or the mounts loosen whilst in use, it can destroy clutch bearings on the saw. Lockite is needed everywhere imo Once you iron out all the first use niggles its quite effective, especially if you set a high pulley in a tree so it lifts the but out the ground

Awesome last few pics Dave great zip line.

No, he said If used for business a vehicle (including trailer if fitted) over 3.5t needs a tacho. Then Young drivers can tow 750kg max, regardless of tow vehicles capabilities. This also includes tractors by the way. 1, A young driver can tow over 750kg 2, and be under 3.5t, avoiding tacho Also under 50km of base requires no tacho

And although no mention of weight- Note 4 At 16 you can drive tractors less than 2.45m wide. It must only pull trailers less than 2.45m wide with two wheels, or four wheels that are close together.

Come on, if you're going to insist you're right check you're facts first From 19 January 2013, drivers passing a category B (car and small vehicle) test can tow: small trailers weighing no more than 750kg trailers weighing more than 750kg, where the combined weight of the towing vehicle and the trailer isn’t more than 3,500kg Maximum Authorised Mass (MAM) If you want to tow a trailer weighing more than 750kg, when the combined weight of the towing vehicle and trailer is more than 3,500kg, you’ll have to pass a further test and get B+E entitlement on your licence. You’ll then be able to tow trailers up to 3,500kg.

Be carefull not to ruffle you're bosses feathers too much, IMO a full on arborist tipper van would be a step too far as its pretty obvious you intend on doing more and more of you're own thing.

Nice colours Martin! Break out the 070? Did some too the other week

How much would a turner pay for "all those small bits"?

The transit connects nicer to drive than the combo, but not as good on diesel (had both)

in that case, get the 880 my 460 has a 25", and the 880 36", the 460 does the bulk of the work, and felling on spikes, 880 for big stems only (rarely in the tree) and milling. i wouldnt want a 660 on 36" full time

Get a 660 with 25" and 36" bar, much more user friendly, will be used weekly rather than monthly/every other month like an 880 with 36"bar.

but like the OP i have my HGV, the O-licence isnt as much trouble as people make out. trouble with a transit is once the tippers a foot deep in chip, its overloaded, IMO, if creating an ideal setup from scratch, a transits not ideal

Ive thought about this alot if i returned to the uk, if staying under 7.5 tonne, this for the truck, add high sides, handles weight well, not much bigger than a transit, but more volume capacity and more weight legally (3tonne iirc) 2006 Iveco/ Seddon Eurocargo 130942mi 3920cc | eBay towing something like this (used its smaller brother, which punched well above its weight, vari trac system is brilliant) USED Wood Chippers, GREEN-MECH 19-28 offered for sale £12900.00 or 7-9" jensen/schliesling. chosen for build quality. no point in having a 5-6"chipper if you're licence allows you to tow bigger imo

Few months back had a customer with one in his garage awaiting restoration, 1 owner, low kms, brought it new when he was 18, said it was a real hit with the ladies, but not much room inside...

A guy i worked with told the boss he wouldn't be coming to work tomorrow, as it was forecast snow

Cheaper to buy a new one!

What relevance does that really have though? You can't weigh a peice before sending it in the speed line You can't measure the structural interegraty of the tree in every area the differencing forces are being applied, all you can do is judge. A true professional will be able to accurately judge what is a safe load and stay within the limits of his gear and the condition of the tree, and as he's working, adjust his judgement and equipment accordingly, will adjust his cuts to limit shock loading. To the op, a simple speed line can be a rope tied of in the tree, tied off on a suitable anchor on the ground, sling/strop on the branch, and a carabiner to attach it to the line. Gravity does the rest. Even send it down on a stub if real simple You can then add pulleys instead of the crab running on the line 3-1 to tension the line Simple tag line to control the decent down the line Conventional lowering system to control the decent of the peice down the line Winches to pre tension The list is endless with a bit of imagination!

Computer programs and weeks of revision, you on crack?! Keep it sensible and you'll be fine

I think it was an 811 I used, about m reg, flat fronted. Handled weight well although wallowed around a lot when loaded. Beyond useless offroad (i.e playing fields) seemed front heavy and liked to sink. I believe it's the same engine as in some unimogs. Only towed small chippers and no hills but don't remember it really struggling. In my opinion and experience, I'd say 11tonner is the lightest for a decent hiab and tipper on one vehicle.

12,25

Me too! Won't use it though!

Echoing everyone else, great job!

Damn it! Only just seen this, we'll done al though