josharb87

ditto

most words can be traced back to latin or greek, as they both were one of the original languages in the old old old days. whats important is that as professionals we know that there is room for both common and latin names-you dont want to alienate customers by always using latin - they lust want that big oaky type tree cutting, if you turn round and say i recommend a 20%crown reduction, crown clean, and raise on your Quercus robur, many will say 'WTF?!? can you tell me that in english please? oh you mean a short back and sides' but on a professional level, using latin-where relevant can prevent confusion, as your being more specific. in reply to your previous posts dean, re making things simpler to understand, common names are a new simpler way of catogrising trees-instead of the Quercus taxonomic genus, we have Oak family, instead of ilex as the taxonomic species, we have holly, holme or evergreen oak - but thats 3 names for one tree! ARRRHGGGHHH a 3rd way of clasification would be even more confusing! just tag every tree

its in the word, Arbor originating from the latin for tree

in my opinion, its more professional using latin, especially in quotes or schedule of works, we do call ourselves arborists afterall. its universal too-anyone worked with foreigners whose english isnt 100%? or worked abroard? whats everyone going to understand, A) A yew B) L’if commun C) Taxus baccata?

any pics? how tall to the original pollard? by the sounds of it, seeing as they dont want removal, and you dont want a crap looking result or to remove the stubs, the obvious option would be to pollard lower, possibly bellow all stubs??? its willow-it'll regrow from any work-even in your log pile!

thatd be one way to cut conifier hedges

sounds blatantly obvious, but supprisingly common, but when taking photos, make sure theres a before pic, a during pic, and an after pic-with photos of YOU doing the work-no point photographing your boss-he's not on work experience!

Grease Your the one that I want (sorry but this thread was quiet, think i may have ruined it ) [ame]http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=eOm9X0eg1fw[/ame]

tried fieldens at stowmarket? used to have a new batch of quads each year from them when i was farming, above excellent customer service, on our old ones, not just the new stuff. 01449 675 071

Miami Ink - Bring Sally Up [ame]http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=7YDI2hwKuyA[/ame]

just need to get new tyres fitted to me bike at 11 in cambridge, then will give you a ring if the weathers still good if thats alright

sip ultrafits are my favorite trousers so far, tough, light, durable

youre doing your lorry theory test, when on the hazard & perception video, you see a transit coming towards you, and think 'wouldnt that be funny if its a tree gang. . . bloody hell its got a chipper, well i never' and miss the hazard completly

Deep purple, smoke on the water [ame]http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=3Zz1gOIxHPE&feature=related[/ame]

collapsed turbo pipes?! (may appear fine on outside)

not realy intrested in doing lots of timber, just for fun really, and if money can be made, then its a bonus! is milling as quick as ringing up then? planning to run a husky 395 or 066, if can get it working, both can take a 36in bar at their limits (i think) which i would need to get. north of cambridge is too flat, south is too expensive and too many people with their head up their where the sun dont shine! (and im a suffolk boy) do like it here really, just want to be back in the countryside a bit more:001_smile:

my mate had a S3 landy with a rangie 3.9v8 in-THAT used to scare chavs! (unlike my old 2 1/4!)

Thought so, seen the horizontal mill which im guessing is what id need for beams, then again, ive a big old electric circular saw bench, which would do the same as the horizontal mill. thanks for your advice:001_smile:

true, very true!

always think its a shame when we log up beautifull trunks, give them away ect, so thought about best way of planking them, posts or beams whats the best way about this?? say this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Alaskan-36-Chainsaw-mill-Use-with-Stihl-Husqvarna-etc_W0QQitemZ220275563834QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item220275563834&_trkparms=72%3A985%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 alaskan 36inch mill £209.00+£10.00P&P sounds alright to me! how good are the actual products (truthfully!)? any value in the products? any pointers on milling? storage? tips? thanks Josh

REM Man on the Moon! [ame]http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=bs4pTCqhTfY[/ame]

why not have a removable ply headboard at the front of the bed to take the punishment from the chip, wiremesh sides with heavy duty tarp covering sides and top with overlap at the front to prevent chip escaping-chuck tarp and headboard it the load bed when not got a load of chip on board-reducing drag??? worked well on my hilux!

too slow, bolloX!

Walking in Memphis - Marc Cohn [ame]http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=XrT0gAbRqyw[/ame]

with that sortof budget and the implements you have id be inclined to sell the implements to an enthusiast and start again with with a bigger budget from said sales, and look for something much more common, good nick massy 35/65/85 for example-may be old but spare parts much more easily available, pretty robust and perfect for small holdings (also know of a couple for sale and some implements inc plough). old tractors arnt really my thing, but if you get a list of implements/model you need i can foward them to a few people-one mate exports old/used uk machinery to eastern europe and restores/collects older machines, few others are into vintage tractors. try http://www.TractorData.com for info on power outputs etc