carlos
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Everything posted by carlos
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thanks for the replies, im pretty green when it comes to splicing, so the tennex seems the better option although it is a loose weave. when doing an xring either end , are the splices the same or do you have to do a different one once you already have the first one on? thanks
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i was thinking of trying one of those with an x ring in either end probably of different size to enable remote setting and removal. so iam wondering whether tennex hollow braid or a double braid would be best, i guess the tennex would be easier. thanks
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so was it you who bogged it or not!!!?????
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we have a tracked 530 and we have never used shims, it seems ok.
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i think parts for echo machines are easier to get these days, our local dealer in ireland doesent seem to have any trouble. i have found that under the brake band needs cleaning otherwise the brake band gets pushed upwards from a build up of crud and starts to slip of the edge of the clutch drum, once this happens we had to put on a new brake band to fix.
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it could be the fuel solenoid. there are a few threads on arbtalk about it. easy enough to replace.
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here is what i use. the self tending part is a vt knot with the tails poked through the little hole on the pulley and a stopper knot on the end, i put it on the leg nearest the tail that you pull so there is less pressure on it if that makes sense, , i usually dont bother with the progress capture but today i was felling near a road and wanted to pretension the felling rope to free up some for the road, i find this block and tackle a handy tool, its a lot lighter and easier to set up than a tirfor. the cam to attatch it to the pull rope is handy but a strong prussic could be used or just tie in to the pull line with an alpine butterfly. hope this helps.
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What would you have done with this tree?
carlos replied to Thesnarlingbadger's topic in Climbers talk
it sounds like the bounce and movement is the problem, so could you run two guy lines back to the trees behind and tension them a bit, this would stop some of the movment and help if you start rigging, of course its hard to see angles and distances from photos. a simple zip line held by the groundie can shift small bits away from obstacles without too much set up. anyway hope you come up with a plan that works and your comfortable with. -
whats the world coming to when you cant drive around with bald tires and defective brakes!!!!!!?
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still surprises me how keen people are on these devices given the recalls, mk1, 3,...3! and obvious lack of proper field testing, certainly wouldnt fill me with confidence. carl
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havent a clue on its strength but i thought it looked a bit crap when i first saw it! iam sure its fit for purpose though.
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cheap part and an easy enough fix
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hope you get it sorted, love these saws got one at work that is over ten years old and i still choose it over the husky 560, similar cutting ability with out the god awful noise!
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we have been pleased with the 501sx from echo, i think that is 50cc we run them on 16 inch bars and they seem a nice reliable small go to saw. carl
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i think regular cleaning is the way , ive only just got one so my older saws are taking a while to clean, i think i may try soaking what bits a can. thanks for the tips. dont think ill be sending my 346 to spud anytime soon!!!
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nice tree, worth trying to clear the ivy, id say patience and a nice light and sharp saw would do it. i wouldn't try and remove the ivy as that would be an arse ache job, just try and cut it all dont know much about herbecides but sounds a bit risky to me
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anyone found anything that helps to clean off really old gunked up veg oil? a serious downside to using the stuff. thanks carl
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he put in a new base gasket and carb diaphram, had to turn the idle down a bit but seems better although it still runs a bit fast when its on its side not the best for milling LOL. thanks carl
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did you fall out of a mewp once or something??!!!!!
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the echo 360 tes is an ok saw, although if your doing lots of work then id say a stihl 201tcm would be better but a lot more money
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you could turn the lid upside down and gently use a butter knife or simmilar, theres probably a little lug in there or just take it apart at the round swivle join, they can be awkward but they do come off.
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seemed a bit better but not right so i took it to the shop today. was driving me mad as i had spent ages welding up a mini alaskan mill and wanted to see if it worked but the saw kept letting me down. thanks for your help ill report when i get it back. carl
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er wanna sell any of your old ones!!! think i should prob get a few new ones.
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do people retire them at a certain age or just when they are worn and not working so well? i understand there is no set lifespan as with textiles. thanks carl
