Mesterh

Me too. Was the job spec to remove those 2-3 branches then?

Too true, forgot it was a 046, thought it was a husky!

Thats nothing new. Although, why look at the dz every time you drop something out? If you know where your staff are and you know there is not going to be anyone else in the dz its just time wasting, I do loads of cutting, chucking and swinging stuff without looking when I know where its going to land. Different if its over a road or pedestrian area etc, well sort of but then I rely on staff to keep the coast clear when told. I totally agree with your sentence about bombing stuff out etc. As for not using lube though.

I don't think its very fair to start blaming the climber. He probably saw the groundie was out if the way but didn't expect a saw to be there. A climber has plenty of jobs to do looking for kit under the tree shouldn't be one of them.

I don't believe in making people pay for damages unless it's a deliberate act. If they are constantly damaging stuff or being negligent then they don't deserve a job. I once had an old boss who tried to make me pay for a very small damaged item, when I refused and asked why I should pay for it( I did infact get a replacement pay for it and fit it so I just wanted my money back) he came up with " if I don't charge people they will just go around breaking stuff" He couldn't have came up with a more stupid answer! Besides new and trial sounds like someone should have been keeping a bit of an eye on him to me. Stupid silly mistake but we all make them, just seems more stupid and silly when it's someone else or worse, someone else with OUR kit. I suppose there is the argument that if he is a decent bloke he will offer to pay for the damage but then if the boss is a decent bloke he will give the lads a bonus every time they do some really nasty jobs and nothing gets damaged or gear gets nicked which has been factored into the quote etc. Hope you can both come to me agreement.

I would chuck the full chisel back on after your assessment as its a nicer chain to cut with, its not very often we have to bore in.

Ill go with £150 too. Would be done before break then onto another before dinner. I too would like £300+ but its irrelevant since I wouldnt get it.

I guess he isn't telling the truth tbh. Or the fuel mixs, are wrong.

The customer is always right. Tbh I also think that once pollarded it's best to carry on repollarding rather than thinning or reducing. I wouldn't worry about not getting future work due to other potential customers seeing you do the job. Chances are someone is more likely to see what you've done and ask to do the same to their tree. Anyway at least you took the time to give them more options and your expert advice.

People seem to fiddle about with rollies way too much.

Looks very nice. If your worried it might dent it might be worth getting some dibond on the outside which would also give a flat surface to get the signs onto.Will still have the nice alloy look but might be easier to sign up.

You need to be very good to be getting around the £150 mark, ie you can tackle any tree job and do it quickly and efficiently. If your new to the game and/or arent the best climber then look at the £70 end of the scale. To me experience is irrelevant its skill that matters. I know quite a few people who have been in the game for 10+ years that you wouldnt want up the tree even if they we paying you for the privilege.

He must have put chain oil in the fuel tank for it to smoke. I also clean out the oil tank with fuel and this doesn't cause any problems. Have done all three of the naughty commandments, rocking the chain on a weekly basis still. Make sure you flush the fuel tank out.

Sad news indeed RIP Tree work has and always will be considered 'an easy job' you put a cut/wedge in the direction you want the tree to go and it goes that way. Sounds stupid but just think of all the cartoons/comedy clips and tv shows of people chopping down trees. Now compare that to the above but some messing about with electricity. Usually the lumber jack gets his tree but the electrician gets a comedy zap. I priced a job about two months ago where the client wanted me to do the trees that he couldn't. He knew exactly how to fell the other trees by pulling them over with a tractor while chopping the back of the tree, well he had used a chainsaw to cut up a few logs for his fire so knew all the cuts. I doubt he is attempting to rewire his house although he has changed a few 13 amp plugs.

Long gaffs and err more than a bit of slack between anchor points.

Also to the skilled professional too.

I think, no. You can buy some nasty power tools from B&Q for a tenth of the price of a decent chainsaw. They are lethal power tools and IIRC they wouldnt get through HSE if they were invented now. Pointless trying to regulate the sales as it will just push the price up and the end user, US, will have to pay for it.

Decreased control and the ability to easily cross hands and arms over and under the chain. No matter what people think they dont have the power to stop kick back with one hand when it isnt expected.(Easy to control and brace for it when you know its going to happen, try it) They are brilliant saws though and I wouldnt ever want to be without one.

Ive used boards before on greenhouses and conservatories but its only really been as a precaution against damage on really awkward stuff, not to deliberately drop stuff onto. Dont underestimate the faffing about getting the boards in place and getting them to stay there on pitched roofs.

No need to. Tbh it's some new info that I haven't heard before or seen done. I was always taught just above and that's all I've ever seen people do. As they say about something new everyday.

Thieving scum. If it had remote central locking they could have scanned /cloned the remote and got in that way if they were waiting for you. If so they could come back for another go.

Well I gotta say well done for getting it down and not damaging any property but mainly not damaging yourself. But, you were very very lucky it didnt flatten you looking at the hinge/gob etc. When you cut through the hinge they can easily go sideways like it did. I'm sorry but I would chalk this one up to luck more than anything. What you needed to do was get a nice level back cut just above the bottom cut of the gob and leave a nice big bit of hinge. Then start giving it a bit more on the winch until it came over,maybe with a bit of nibbling of the back cut if needed. The odd wedge wouldnt go a miss plus you need to know how much of a hinge to leave etc. Anyway alls well that ends well.

Excellent!!

The Vermeer parts although more expensive are quality items. I have bought a few cheaper types of bearings in the past but they just don't last as long. That's not to say there aren't cheaper good quality ones out there it's just the ones I bought were crap. As for the shaft as woodpecker says its an engineering job or a factory item. Unless you know an engineer they may want about the same cost for a one off item. Worth asking one though.

I am liking the sound and look of this one. For me the easier it is to open the better, but then I prefer the screwgates to the three ways anyway.