Mesterh

I hope you arent allowed to carry a firearm anymore!!! Really, come on there is no Dr Evil plotting against us all to have total control over our lives and souls! I bet all this paranoia dates back to the time of Socrates! I think you give these 'governments' too much credit. I say bring on more CCTV and I couldn't care about anyone reading my meaningless ramblings on. MUAHAHAHAHA

Wirecore comes into its own on big pines and gnarly barked pops etc. Its a lot quicker to flick about and not get caught up in the bark like a normal rope will. Only when chogging down though dont think I could ever be bothered to use one as a normal lanyard.

Nice one, cheers for the info mate. I thought it must be a metric size just as you say though its quite a bit finer than your standard M10. Ill buy an m10x1.0 and let you know if its the right size.

Try some SIP progress, they are a more loose fit. And err dont bother with the braces, we are supposed to be tree surgeons not farmers.

As per the title anyone got any info as to which helicoil I will need to get? From what I can see they are all the same size, I just dunno what size that is!

You may have already thought of this but I would suggest you have a good think if it is going to cost you more time leaving everything there. By that I mean does the brash need moving to a specific place not only for the customer to move put so its not in your or the groundies way while working? Sometimes it can be a lot quicker and easier to whack them through a chipper than cut move stack cut etc etc, depending on the drag obviously. Same with the logs, does he want them cutting and stacking in a specific place, rather than just lumping them down and straight on the van? I wouldnt charge much less than a half/full day whatever it is compared to if I was using the chipper and moving the arisings, as the actually daily cost of running the machines is not much, obviously depending on if there is going to be a lot of runs back and to from the yard etc. Its like when a customer says they will keep all the chip, if we just barrow it down and spread it out on the borders, same with the can we just cut up all the logs and stack them at the bottom of the garden with the wood pile. We can always do it but it will cost them a lot more.

Well if its too rich it will also be poor. Also dont forget the engine and carb are quite a bit different compared to the 020/200t The info about removing the h limiter was from a guy working for Stihl, although not a tech guy it was something he had heard as a workaround, didnt get a lot of detail and best with a pinch of salt etc. I have a 201t that I will have a mess about with next week if I get the chance but it looks like its came from the factory with a rich l screw and the H right out on the limit cap. I think its safe to say that the 201t seems to need a lot more setting up than the 200t or its even more dependant on fine adjustments etc. Has anyone stripped one of the engines/carbs down an a 201T yet?

From what I have seen, heard and have cobbled together the top end needs richening and the bottom end leaning out. This can only be done by removing the limiter caps on the H needle. I 'presume' some dealers are doing the above (or something like it)and thats why some saws run fine and some dont. Or its a bad batch of cheap carbs and the luck of the draw. Partly based on fact from what I hear but not gospel.

Cheers for the info. Followed quite a few of your projects and always find them brilliant pieces of work. One day I WILL make something practical and aesthetically pleasing rather than a swedish candle or a piece of firewood. I have some beech, elm and cedar sawn into planks so at least its a start, well thats what I keep saying to myself!

Looks fantastic!! What timber is it? I guess beech? 10X lacquer sounds like A lot of work!!

Totally agree. I would say a vast majority of my clients have never needed or know anyone who require tree work so they have no references of costs or recommendations. To most clients its a simple 'gardening' job(even the biggest nasty black polar) in their eyes. You can usually tell when they are impressed there is no sawdust on the driveway and are irrelevant that you have spent 2 days rigging and carting out 10+ ton of rotten poplar while keeping their greenhouse, conservatory and lawn intact. I cant blame anyone for getting a few quotes and as you say how do they differentiate between a good firm and a not so good one if as above they have no references? All I do is try to reassure potential customers that we are a professional firm and that by using us they dont have to worry about any else. I dont say it like that but I hope I come across like that. But, many people just want the cheapest price and we have to accept that, all I can do is offer a professional service at a competitive price, sometimes I will be the cheapest and sometimes not, hopefully I'm the cheapest only when other 'professional' tree surgeons are involved.

That probably about sums it up. Always makes me laugh, how many times do we see threads about where to buy the cheapest insurance saws etc then the next thread will be questioning why customers are so tight and dont want to pay out. Human nature, or well consumer nature, I dont blame clients for wanting value for money, why should they pay me more money to carry out a job over someone else who seems just as proficient and professional if I dont come to them with recommendations?

Obviously works well for you but my best earners are the sub £200 jobs, £90 being the best, in an out in half an hour. As for the OP, never worth worrying about it, have a whinge and a proper whine then move on,well works for me! Your probably undercutting many others who will also do the above. As Esther said 'That's Life'

There would have been no radio just a note saying knob!.

From 15secs on you can see his main line moving with the piece. Thats how quick a nasty accident can happen, its over in a flash. Hope the guy recovered quick.

I would say rim sprockets last way, way, way longer than spur sprockets.

There are stump grinders that can grind any stump and are carried, so as long as you can get to the stump it can be removed. I would get some quotes from some local tree firms to grind it out, or you will need to invest quite a bit more time digging, axing and resharpening that chain. Besides it may not cost much more to get a pro in to sort it out compared to the cost of buying an axe, sledge hammer, splitting wedges, spare chain sharpening kit etc. Plus you then have to get rid of the stump after you've split it up.

I cant decide which one's better, theres only one way to find out........ FIGHT!!!!!

Well your either honest or a blagger and if it's the latter you may as well be a full blown blagger and hoodwink the customer for every penny they have. I think some people are mixing up being honest and doing what the customer asks. I'm all for doing what the customer wants but when they ask to cut down a dead tree and it's not I would hope most would tell them it's not dead!

The same thing happened to mine but luckily i was on the ground and noticed it was on the last thread! I also put utter down to the anchor ring constantly rubbing on the shake so i bought a smaller one from dmm and loctited the screws in place. I spoke to the people who made/ designed the harness about the screws and they said there was this little bit of red rubber stuff that is supposed to lock it in place. A bit of a poor design easily rectified i think but with drastic consequences if it does fail at the wrong time.

Subbed to someone who managed to fill a jerry can with diesel rather than unleaded! Blamed it on someone else mind:laugh1: You find out fairly quickly when you 020 starts running on a diesel mix! A freelance climber should have PPE and a top saw, it can get complicated if you start using other saws/equipment etc.

Dunno about reindeers but there are quite a few mooses. Nice looking knives. I tried making a one from an old file, dont snigger its one of the best metals for the job apparently. Got distracted with something else and didnt finish it off.

Its usually the tank breather that leaks, but its usually the older designs as Spud suggests.

I totally agree there, I would hope that all professionals would do the same and inform the client of real potential dangers even if thats not why they ask us to be there in the first place. I just dont like the way some 'professionals' see it as a game of wits and try to outsmart the client at every opportunity, lightening their wallet in the process. BTW I dont see that happening in this thread and believe the OP is acting in the best interests of his client.

Cheers for the info and ideas. Didnt realise the tool crabs needed LOLER! Although the ones I use still work fine its just when I buy new ones for climbing they get moved on. Interesting about the wire gate instead of the caritool(which I use and do like) how do they compare or should I say why the change?