Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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Quality work
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Stay positive Sean and you will get through this - hope you have a rapid recovery.
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Ask a local firm if you can drag some brash for a few days (maybe offer to do a day or two for free). It will give you an idea of if the work is for you. I would not start looking into courses etc to start with - try and get some hands on experience first to see if you like it.
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Ah... yes that looks familiar! Should serve you well that as had a new genuine piston and cylinder head before it came to me!
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So there prob isn't one then! shame that...
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This time of year I always found went quiet on the tree front... and then kicks in again in September. Quite a hard time of year to get into it if trees are all you're doing. Cutting grass is a good way to suplement things in the meantime...
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Not seen this thread before - what beautiful looking timber !!
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Green furniture direct out of the log... let's see your designs!
Rob D replied to Rob D's topic in Panther Mill UK
Nice work Ian - I like the legs on that as they go just right with the top... always the hardest thing to get right IMO -
I don't think Husky have a part number for these - but has anyone else managed to get a 1/4" drive spur to fit the Husky T540?
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Ripping chainsaw chain info - differences and basics explained
Rob D replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
Thanks all - I don't know about chain guru though .... New Sugi bars will be here 1st May (inc all bars for T540), possibly a week or so before. This will be a big order and will be doing some kind of deal end of March. -
Good pics and good results!
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Love the idea - saw a Lynx at the weekend as they have one in the Wildlife Center here. But know nothing about potential problems on re introducing...
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Finally managed to get round to doing a leaflet type pdf on ripping chain to explain some of the differences in the makes of ripping chain and answer the basic questions that are always asked. I still switch between the different makes of ripping chain to mix it up and see what works best - and in the end usually end up with the Granberg again. But the Oregon and Stihl do a good job and I think any differences between the chains are quite subtle.... Much more important is general saw and bar maintenace and chain sharpening. If one chain was head and shoulders above the others I think everyone would just use that one! You can open the pdf and print the leaflet. CB-Alask-2pg-A5-Card Ripping chain.pdf
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It's usually always the basics - ie. good saw and bar maintenance and good chain shapening technique, that will mean better and trouble free cutting. Also sometimes it is the wood you are cutting will show up any weakness in your set up - I cun remember cutting green oak quickly and easily one day, next day on a freshly felled ash it was vibrating and juddery... took the saw out of the mill, re sharpened using precision grinder and got everything exactly right, took bar and chain off saw and cleaned everything, re assembled and milling same ash tree was then smooth...
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I don't find my polytunnel bad for storing timber in - and it does get almost up to 40 degrees in there in the summer! If you mill in June and stick wood straight in there - yes receipe for disaster and you will get all sorts of drying defects. But mill in Nov/Dec and put it in there the wood is ready for some harsher conditions when they come. Also I try and keep it out of direct sunlight. It's not ideal but done at the right times it seems to be ok.
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Nice pics! You want a smaller file for that chain - 5/32" or 3/16" if freehand. Also the scoring cutters on the Granberg chain sometimes need a grinder of some sort to sharpen as when they are ground back they can become to hard to sharpen with a round file.
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Sounds like you've thought it out so go with that. To start off it does seem hard to find wood - but as people get to know you you will find you get offered more and more. If youare going to clear for free I would offer to clear it but not do the rake up ie. sawdust and bits and pieces.
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<p>Hi Nathan - we have the Sugi pro and light type pro in 28"... but other than that would be an oregon powermatch bar:</p>
<p> </p>
<p>All found here : <a href="http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/guide-bars/" rel="external nofollow">Guide bars</a></p>
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Green furniture direct out of the log... let's see your designs!
Rob D replied to Rob D's topic in Panther Mill UK
Like the bench and the house! Log bench looks very natural but quite tricky to make. -
Have now finally got some full skip chisel chain in - shame oregon do not supply into the UK market but there you go... sourced from the US and a bit of a pain and long wait to get it hence price is not cheap. It is not in the selector area you can find it here in the custom chain selector Custom chain loops Full skip chain is best on bars 24"+ where the extra drive link between cutters helps carry woodchip more efficiently and keeps chain speed up. Also less teeth to sharpen Not used it myself yet... I will get a larger range of this in ie. 3/8 .058 and .404 .063 if there is demand... the .404 skip chain seems a lot more expensive than the 3/8.
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Spacer springs that allow you to mount Stihl bars on Husqvarna chainsaws
Rob D replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
They work fine - you can return them if they don't! -
Liked the camera angle and speed lining technique Rich
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<p>Hi Sam - yes I have the Sugi bars 18" but only in the pro solid version with replaceable nose £55+vat, Husky 3/8 drive sprocket £30+vat and chains depends on what you have,</p>
<p>Rob</p>
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Some nice black line spalting - people seem to prefer this to the flame type spalting.
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Tend to always quarter saw these days - big boards are a lot of hassal to move, stick and dry. Tensions build up and cause more drying defects. And often you end up having to rip them into smaller boards anyway. A planer thicknesser is the best way to get a rough board smooth. But usually these are max 24" although they do go much bigger this is usually the largest you'll find locally.
