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Rob D

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Everything posted by Rob D

  1. Many thanks
  2. You are spot on there! You have the benchmark rule of thumb sorted so when you have some time try changing things a little and see how you get on - even better you can thenbfeedback on this thread your findings when you have done so On the whole this is unknown territory and there is not much actual facts out there... so any tests you do will be well recieved.
  3. Big J will be on here in a minute!! Ha ha Leave the depth guages alone to start with - see how you go - if it feels and works well stay with it. Taking the depth guages down can make the saw very grabby and over aggressive in the wood and will slow productivity, be hard on the saw and hard on you. As the teeth get shorter you can start increasing the amount off the depth guages to maintain the angle of attack up into the tooth... Have a look at BobL posts on Arborist site about depth gauges - eg http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/raker-depth-for-milling.120334/
  4. Yep that is very cool indeed
  5. As above .404 is better - if you have the power to drive it then use it! Kerf difference between the two is very small - speed of cut really comes down to skilled chain sharpening.
  6. If there is good figuring and rippling/burrs then certainly worth milling. But other than that it is not a great timber really - ok you can make things out of it but there is plenty of other better stuff to mill out there. Bear in mind sweet chestnut is a completely different wood to horse chestnut with completely different looks and properties. The chair in one of the previous posts looks to be made out of sweet chestnut...
  7. Really you should not be starting off chainsaw milling with a smaller saw/longer bar combo... Ok further down the line, more experience etc then fine but initially you need larger saw smaller bar if anything. You can go down the lo pro route but this is by all means not an 'answer all' method - it is best visited after some milling experience first. I know the issue is always - cost! ie. I already have this saw and these large logs but I don't want to fork out £1k for a big saw yet! Go for a small log mill or a smaller Alaskan, stick within recommended limits on guidebar length, Rome was not built in a day so start with smaller logs and getting some milling time in... there will always be a larger log for another day! Any sort of milling/planking is a long term thing and knowledge and experience is gained over time rather than a few weeks...
  8. Sorry only just seen this - the ST is Standard inner diameter. Oregon SM (small) internal diameter will not fit the Stihl equivalent. But they do fit the Husky SM (small) internal equivalent. Oregon ST (standard) internal diameter will also fit the ST (standard) Stihl equivalent. So standard internal rims will fit all chainsaws across the board.
  9. Rob D

    Racy day

    Great comparison there very good work Gives me some inspiration to try a similar test myself! It would have been great to have seen an MS660/661 with the 20" bar and see how that coped compared to the electric set up.
  10. I use the Ripper 37 blades as well - good customer service. Never go for the cheapest anything! Just IMO that is...
  11. Nice work Mark - this picnic bench design works really well
  12. How did you do the motice and tennons? Did you use a chainsaw? Nice looking bench
  13. On all the current Echos Tsumura make the smaller laminated bars (which are painted silver) - Sugihara make the pro solid sprocket nose bars for the larger saws (in fact it says Sugihara on these).
  14. Hmmm - it is actually hard to over tension a long bar on the MS880! You must have cranked on a fair bit to burn the clutch! Learning process as always - next time half a turn off and should be fine. That chain on a long bar should not snap back to stationary the same as it does on a smaller saw.
  15. Very hard to say as Stihl make their files in different places I think but get a couple of each and see what you think yourself.
  16. Haha - yes you will + should cause it is a good offer! Don't forget please as you will kick yourself later
  17. You can find them in the Special Offer Section Or type VH2U-8Q40-A into the search box, select it then add to basket.
  18. This weekend we are offering a bulk buy chain promo - please read the rules carefully before ordering! Offer closes stricly 9am Monday so all orders before this time will quaify, all orders after this will not! Chainsawbars.co.uk - CHAIN EVENT Here is your opportunity to stock up on Oregon and Stihl chain! Applies to all Oregon and Stihl makes and sizes of chain - so what is the offer? Help us to help you - the offer rules are there to make it easier for us to process hence by not following the rules of this offer you will not qualify for it. Buy x2 identical chains + one other product off CSB (ANY product does not matter) and get a third chain the same free. Buy x5 identical chains + one other product (ANY product does not matter) and get x3 additional chains the same free! RULES - please read carefully before ordering OFFER ENDS 9am Monday 20th July - this is a set in stone deadline - place it 9.05am Monday and offer will not be applied MUST be placed over the website - phone orders will not qualify MUST order either x2 or x5 of the same chain - the free ones will be additional chains the same ie. you cannot order x5 different chains, send an e-mail asking 'please make the free chains x,y and z' orders will take 5 WORKING DAYS to process and will be sent Monday, 27th July chain can be ordered off the CHAIN SELECTOR or the CUSTOM CHAIN SELECTOR MUST buy one other product other than chains off the website - this can be ANY product This offer will not be repeated for at least 1 year OREGON and STIHL chain only ie. not Granberg Chainsawbars ? chainsaw chains, chainsaw bars and chainsaw accessories Edit your subscription | Unsubscribe
  19. Sent the link to this vid the other day. Nicely put together video - nothing new as such but well worth a watch.... [ame] [/ame]
  20. With woodworm I would not worry too much. If the conditions are right for woodworm - they will be there. So whether you introduce them into a house or not - if there is wood in there somewhere that provides them with what they need - they will aready have found it and be tunneling about in there! Sapwood of oak is one of the worst though - I now treat this if I make anything with a waney edge... seems to work well. This stuff (recommended by Tommer9) seems to work well. Buy Universal Woodworm and Dry Rot Killer Online UK
  21. Utterly shocking and sad story. Some people out there must be carrying around a huge amount of latent anger in them - add instability to the mix and here is the result. Really sorry to hear this.
  22. Excellent work indeed and original designs nothing to worry about there ... Great work - really good to see so many milling and making things out of timber we have in this country...
  23. Sapwood in oak either has woodworm or will get woodworm in the future unless treated - they love it! You rarely get woodworm in the heart - it can happen though... Really you need to either sell as rough wood cheaper or cut off the woodworm areas and treat.
  24. Rob D

    Sugihara bars

    Our pleasure

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