Rob D

It has to be the right sort of wood to be of any value - stick some pics up first. Seems hard to find buyers for the roots but they do exist (although I have never come across any!)

Get some pics up Mark!

That wood is def worth milling - big heartwood and lovely colour. Even those lumps there are worth milling - where abouts is it?

No prob - these adapters are really nice in that you can screw them to the saw and then there really is no difference from fitting the bar from a Stihl saw to a Husky saw. Husky has a 7mm tensioner on most larger saws so perhaps the Makita is 6mm or less like the Stihl which is good to know. The chains should be the same in each case as well. We will be doing the Sugi multi mount bars cheaper soon as an incentive for people to use them. That way we can cut down on the range of bars we stock. If you can get some pics up and some feedback on these ideal

Reminds me I need to do a thread on these adapter plates. I'd love to see a world where everything was standardised and all chains were .063 and one chainsaw mount would fit all! Husky to Stihl in the larger mounts are an easy thing 9mm to 12mm (or D009 mount to D025). The Dolmar saws that share the Husky mount should be the same - let us know! Echo are a little harder to get right...

Sorry I don't always see the threads - better to PM me if I don't answer! I'm pretty sure that would be the 9mm to 12mm spacer. Can you put up a pic of the mount of the Dolmar? As not sure if the plate screw would be in the same place.... But you can try one if you like and send it back if it don't fit! Has taken ages to get these spacers right but they work really well. You may have to drill the Stihl bar's tensioner hole out from 6mm to 7mm but that's it and it should fit fine. They are on ebay at the moment and actually as it's very hard on the website to change the postage for one off small items easier to buy: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/chainsawbars-alaskanmill-and-treet/Adapter-plates-and-springs-/_i.html?_fsub=9370024015

Saw your e-mail as well - we only have the .325 in the laminated bars (as these tend to run on the 023, MS230 and 025, MS250.

Sorry - late answer to this. We corrected the mistakes - shipping to Norway is £19.50 My brother who built the website needs to add the chains and sprockets to the site - he should be doing this over the next couple of months.

Well done for organising Steve - I see Dean won the sugi bar! Typically I thought the raffle was this evening... so missed watching it again but ah well always next year!

Yep - another great design - very nice

It's a great concept - as working in woods it is such a pain walking with a chainsaw crutches or not. I used to walk with a saw cradling it so the weight was better distributed. But then you always had to go back for all your other bits and pieces. It makes total sense to be able to carry all your gear on your back if you have a long walk to the job. You make have put a spark there for someone to develop a new idea if there is nothing out there already. Good to see that you are not letting your disabilities hold you back from getting stuck in

Nicely done - lovely to see stuff like that being used - good post

Good work - very raw and life like

I think it's a great idea and I feel am in the same boat - spent this year doing a little more running etc... In May did a bodypump class and it destroyed me for 3 days! (as said) I think you have to be consistent and very slow in building up to hardcore workouts. I'm not sure if you're over 40 it's worth trying to get to 100% fitness - too hard to maintain, too hard on your body, prob not that healthy unless your diet is immaculate and you don't have much work/or stress in our life... 75% and you'd still feel good I reckon! Will have a look at that insanity workout next week though... could be something to build up to.

Any sort of cooking oils won't last on a worktop... I would use something like a polyurethene varnish (have used Rustins in the past) and it goes off very hard indeed. Also Le Tonkinois - used this on tables used in a restuarant and this is also very hard wearing. Just wondering if all the cooking oil originally applied has been got off - as this would react with any future treatments and may still be causing problems.

Good move spud and I am sure you will have no problems making a success of it :biggrin:

It's a good question what to do with milled timber... To start with many have projects or jobs in mind when they buy a mill. This makes everything a lot easier. If you don't know what to do with the wood I would settle for milling some wood for your own projects. Selling wood is hard indeed! As it is such niche market and depends on where you are in the country. Most people who buy wood tend to enjoy talking about wood more than they do the actual buying it if you see what I mean! Also the nature of the product means it is hard to sell ie. difficult to send by post, every piece is different, you often need to plane it or sand it before selling it (or it just looks like a dirty piece of wood), difficult to store... I sell wood on ebay - but it is not easy - every piece has to be planed, labelled and photographed 12 times! http://stores.ebay.co.uk/chainsawbarsalaskanmillandtreet/All-wood-related-things-/_i.html?_fsub=5877698015 and when you take off ebay fees, paypal fees, vat, shipping.... there ain't a lot left but there is just enough to make it worth doing. So you have your work cut out in selling wood... Really I would always start milling wood by - Being picky what you mill - only mill the best stuff Do it for yourself and family and your own projects See it as doing it more for the love rather than the £...

Not yet as such... possibly in the New Year. Will add to this thread when I do get some.

Stick a pic of the drive sprocket up Darrin if you get a chance...

Haha - to be fair it is a good word though!

Haha yes I'm sad like that! You can also get this from a worn bar or worn nose sprocket...

Looks good on the tooth there Darrin - what is the drive sprocket on that saw like? For a new chain there seems quite a bit of 'peening' on the tie strap - may be worth checking it.

20" with a 48" style set up is fine to use - plenty of stability there... You can do smaller but it is a little cumbersome and inefficient - but not undoable. It's a little like taking down a small tree with an over large chainsaw really!