Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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Very good indeed - can see a lot of work has gone into that
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Yes you can get a woodmizer but for this job it is chainsaw mill only. You can actually charge more chainsaw milling a day than you can a woodmizer!
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You want to be closer the £300-00 mark really I would say.
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Pics would be handy - and also prob best to just state your price rather than be open to offers.
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I know there are hard spots etc in wood - but really one of the advantages of the chainsaw mill is that it will chew through them. Take your saw out the mill - dismantle the bar and chain - dress the bar rails, clean the groove, reassemble, sharpen the chain and get all the teeth equal in length and then check the depth guages. Do all the other maintenace as well such as clean air filter etc... Take your time over it and be thorough. See if that works.
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Like the bowl in the middle - very original idea
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It's a bit of a piece of string question in some ways as depends on soooo many variables. How long does a file last? Oregon say you should go through at least x2 to x3 files per chain (but this is assuming you get right to the very end of the chain)... As the stone wears it loses shape - at this stage you are best to change the stone BUT keep the old one. If you are grinding a really damaged chain put the old stone back on - use it to remove 80% of the damage - put the nice newer one back to put the final finish on there. This will really help you get the most out of your grinding stones.
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On a side note I'm sure my card was cloned at a tesco pay and pump... I know they have cameras but the pumps are un manned at night. Would be easy to fit one of those cloning whatsits - then collect in the morning. -
Good idea Si - I will try this
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This has been my experience - although the big backpack blower ran like a dream straight out the box! The Echos or a few of them seem to run like a bag of old nails to start with!! Poor run up, not reaching full revs etc... The CS280WES after 3 tanks is ony just starting to sound right and was horrible to use to start with... but I think it will be 6 tanks before it is running as it should, the 620SX is now running beautifully after around 5 tanks.. in fact one of the nicest saws I have ever used.
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Very nice Si - the oil certainly brings out the grain
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Yep worked fine As you said before the best first cut rails would have v rails on top for the mini mill as well...
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Now working again!
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Actualy I just tested this and you're right - have contacted the webman! Put your order in and we will add something! Rob
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Hi Andy yes just put in arbtalk and apply voucher to order. This should work
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I like - a lot.
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Nice find and an easy thing to make - I wonder where you buy the metalwork for something like that...
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Many thanks
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Grinding down depth gauges on a new ripping chain?
Rob D replied to Ghettoblaster's topic in Panther Mill UK
You are spot on there! You have the benchmark rule of thumb sorted so when you have some time try changing things a little and see how you get on - even better you can thenbfeedback on this thread your findings when you have done so On the whole this is unknown territory and there is not much actual facts out there... so any tests you do will be well recieved. -
Grinding down depth gauges on a new ripping chain?
Rob D replied to Ghettoblaster's topic in Panther Mill UK
Big J will be on here in a minute!! Ha ha Leave the depth guages alone to start with - see how you go - if it feels and works well stay with it. Taking the depth guages down can make the saw very grabby and over aggressive in the wood and will slow productivity, be hard on the saw and hard on you. As the teeth get shorter you can start increasing the amount off the depth guages to maintain the angle of attack up into the tooth... Have a look at BobL posts on Arborist site about depth gauges - eg http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/raker-depth-for-milling.120334/ -
Yep that is very cool indeed
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As above .404 is better - if you have the power to drive it then use it! Kerf difference between the two is very small - speed of cut really comes down to skilled chain sharpening.
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If there is good figuring and rippling/burrs then certainly worth milling. But other than that it is not a great timber really - ok you can make things out of it but there is plenty of other better stuff to mill out there. Bear in mind sweet chestnut is a completely different wood to horse chestnut with completely different looks and properties. The chair in one of the previous posts looks to be made out of sweet chestnut...
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Really you should not be starting off chainsaw milling with a smaller saw/longer bar combo... Ok further down the line, more experience etc then fine but initially you need larger saw smaller bar if anything. You can go down the lo pro route but this is by all means not an 'answer all' method - it is best visited after some milling experience first. I know the issue is always - cost! ie. I already have this saw and these large logs but I don't want to fork out £1k for a big saw yet! Go for a small log mill or a smaller Alaskan, stick within recommended limits on guidebar length, Rome was not built in a day so start with smaller logs and getting some milling time in... there will always be a larger log for another day! Any sort of milling/planking is a long term thing and knowledge and experience is gained over time rather than a few weeks...
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New GB 3/8 lo pro rim ST internal external 3/8 lo pro
Rob D replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
Sorry only just seen this - the ST is Standard inner diameter. Oregon SM (small) internal diameter will not fit the Stihl equivalent. But they do fit the Husky SM (small) internal equivalent. Oregon ST (standard) internal diameter will also fit the ST (standard) Stihl equivalent. So standard internal rims will fit all chainsaws across the board.
