Rob D

No prob - and please can people give their feedback on the stones - there's been a good lot go out so let's see if they're worth the ££ !!

The best method is as James hs done above. It does seem like a lot of cutting to start with before the posts start popping out. Also you will find doing the horizontal cut after doing all the verical cuts it is hard to keep the posts from pinching the saw at the when you complete the cut. With the vertical mill I have found the best results using a lo pro bar and Oregons 91vxl (not a ripping chain). The larger than chain the more important it seems to be to stick with ripping chain. Smaller chains seem to rip well even if not at 10 degrees.

You could consider a Sugihara bar...... Plenty of options to be had. GROUP 4 Husqvarna chainsaws Archives - Sugihara Guide Bars

If carving bars were better on a top handle everyone would use them - but other than for special circumstances they are not the preference. Yes they reduce kickback but they also need the chain to be run slack, even with the slack chain there is more friction and heat build up at the nose and on a straight cut they will not cut quite as well. There is more control with a sprocket nose bar for general cutting. For the above reasons a sprocket nose bar is better and I would estimate 98%+ pros stick to a sprocket nose bar (Guesstimate based on our customer sales/what I read on here/youtube vids). The new Echo2511TES comes with a carving bar - we change them all to a sprocket nose - this is customer driven. Many of the sprocket nose bars have a small tip and that combined with a guarded chain will keep kickback to a minimum. There are guarded chains with plenty of kickback reducing features. Small saws with smaller sprocket noses and guarded chains mean less chance of kickback and less violence of kick back when and if it happens. Add good work practice and positioning and it takes the need of using a carving bar for reduced kickback away. All that said there will always be an exception to the rule but carving bars are designed for carving not aerial tree work.

Yep amazing work - just seen this one as well [ame] [/ame] You have to be properly organised to do that - no shouting for a groundie to pass up any missing bits and pieces!

CE Marking is time consuming and expensive. As said it also means a manufacturer has to modify their equipment.

Ok I made a bit of a cock up here so apologies! It turns out the Sugihara chain does not go around the MS150T drive sprocket! (and it don't go round the nose sprocket of the Stihl 1/4 .043 bars neither!!) We have not sold many and we are removing the Sugi bar and chain option for the MS150T. If you bought one we will either refund or you could put this on another small Stihl saw (strangely it is only the MS150 drive sprocket that will not accept the chain - all the other 1/4 drive sprockets both Stihl and Oregon run it fine). So to summarise - with the MS150T - you can only use the Stihl sprocket nose bar and chain (either 10" or 12"). There are no other options I'm aware of. Rob [ame] [/ame] This shows why the chains will not run on the other manufacturers bar. [ame] [/ame]

I have no idea! But I did x2 sharpens on a 54" chain the other day - light tickles and there was plenty of juice in it still. If you want a guess it would be vague - I would say at least x3 to x4 sharpens. Hopefully there will be more feedback after people have tried these hence the offer deal. We have run out of these for the next 10 days so any further orders are now back orders. Have to say I love my powerpack now i've used a few times.

We're doing an offer on these now - £40-00+vat includes powerpack and free diamond stone. Usually powerpack will be £46-00+vat and diamond stones £16-00+vat (each ) Tell us which stone you want! Powerpack here You searched for powerpack - Chainsawbars Diamond stones here Grinding stones Archives - Chainsawbars

This def was not a ripping chain - all ripping chains are ground to 10 degrees... You can still rip with a cross cut 30 degree chain and get ok results but you may find it can also be very juddery and leave a washboard effect.

No clear answer on that one but we have all makes and sizes of ripping chain here - CUSTOM CHAIN LOOP - Chainsawbars so you could buy a ripping chain for that bar. And we do a .325 .063 bar for Husky saws here GROUP 3 Husqvarna chainsaws Archives - Page 2 of 3 - Sugihara Guide Bars

I think you need to keep on making the point Steve - I'll mention arbsafe in next newsletter to folk - why not ask Jonsie to as well?

Good to see this point discussed - espeically as with the new very light weight top handled saws - Stihl 150T and Echo 2511TES - are much easier to use one handed to cut and chuck.... Just thinking outside the box in I wonder if it would be possible to develop a saw that was safer to cut and hold? Not saying the below as at all suitable cause clearly it ain't - but thinking along those lines where the back of the bar is guarded and also the tip? Could be as default in closed position - by pressing one button jaws open - press another and this activates the chain and also causes the lower jaw to pivot upright to complete the cut. Just putting it out there as 'food for thought'!

Hmmm - bit of a piece of string question that - a bit like 'I've got a medium sized tree in the garden - how much to take it down?' You need to be more specific and supply plenty of pics with measurements in order to get values. Things that influence the value are - are you looking at a green wet wood price or dry/% of burr per piece/size of piece/prescence of decay and staining etc etc

Nice to get a good solid review on them - we are also going to be looking at getting a budget chain in - in fact we already have some in and will be doing a thread on them this week.

Will do - I have been using for a couple of weeks and the system is excellent so far.

Sorry Steve but no £16+vat for just the stone! The battery packs will be around £40-00+vat but as said we will do an initial offer of the battery pack with a free diamond stone. We will offer 3x packs of the normal stones if you feel the diamond one is not worth it. I tested another diamond stone called an Eze Lap - but it was no where near as good as these ones.

Really you need to clamp on the bar body away from the nose sprocket. On some bars the bar nose sprocket rivets are proud and so do allow to clamp to the nose but I have never done this - too much chance of damaging the bar.

Yep - only regret is I did not find this tool sooner - unbelievable bit of kit!! Have been trying to see about arb adapting one for sale but H&S would be a big issue I think which is such a shame....

We haven't formally started selling these yet - they are a small compact 12v power pack to power the granberg grinder (you can also charge your phone and there is a light there as well!). Not all of these packs work with the grinder but this one seemed to last well. We will do a special offer on a few of these where you can get the powerpack with a free diamond stone (see below). Also coming - some diamond grinding stones - not the usual ones - these are longer and last a long long long time. They don't seem to heat the tooth at all and do not deform so you always maintain correct tooth shape. They come in a coase and a fine version. The drawback? They will be £16-00+vat each!!!! However when we get these in we will offer a deal so that if you buy a stone and in 1 month you feel it has not lasted - we will replace with x3 packs of the normal grinding stones. [ame] [/ame]

Modifiying the back of the cutter by removing a portion of the heel does seem to reduce heat build up at the nose of a carving bar but a LOT! You can do this for any size carving bar and any chain. We used a flap disc on a battery angle grinder which seemed to work well. A great vid from Simon O'Rourke here watch from 12 mins if short on time [ame] [/ame] Quick vid from CSB here [ame] [/ame] And have attached a snip from Ed Robinsons site here Ed Robinson's Wooden Things. Chainsaw carvings, sculptures & furniture. About me.

To save wading through products there is now a search box you can use to find things more easily...

The new CSB website has been running for a couple of months soon - can't say it has not been without it's teething issues! Anyways - there is now just one selector which does everything. You can see all our vids from just one place now and a few other improvements. We will now start posting vids as a seperate thread on arbtalk - we now link a lot more of the website products back to arbtalk so as customers can see feedback and comments. If you have issues with the new site then use the web refresh button on your browser (see pic below). You will have to set up as a new user on the website - but this is easily done as you check out.

I think that pretty much sums it up - cetainly does for myself anyways.

From my training days it was taught that yes these saws can be used one handed - but only for doing cuts away from the user ie. at arms length while reaching out with the saw. Never to be used for cutting and holding. On Reg videos he is very precise and controlled - always seems to be in a good work position. So probably pretty safe (for him!) But I dunno - from folk I've seen and spoken to in the industry (discussing injuries) over 12 years - 9 times out of 10 it's down to one handed cutting. Just my experience.