Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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Granberg precision grinder 12v powerpack and diamond stones
Rob D replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
Will do - I have been using for a couple of weeks and the system is excellent so far. -
Granberg precision grinder 12v powerpack and diamond stones
Rob D replied to Rob D's topic in Chainsawbars
Sorry Steve but no £16+vat for just the stone! The battery packs will be around £40-00+vat but as said we will do an initial offer of the battery pack with a free diamond stone. We will offer 3x packs of the normal stones if you feel the diamond one is not worth it. I tested another diamond stone called an Eze Lap - but it was no where near as good as these ones. -
Really you need to clamp on the bar body away from the nose sprocket. On some bars the bar nose sprocket rivets are proud and so do allow to clamp to the nose but I have never done this - too much chance of damaging the bar.
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Yep - only regret is I did not find this tool sooner - unbelievable bit of kit!! Have been trying to see about arb adapting one for sale but H&S would be a big issue I think which is such a shame....
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We haven't formally started selling these yet - they are a small compact 12v power pack to power the granberg grinder (you can also charge your phone and there is a light there as well!). Not all of these packs work with the grinder but this one seemed to last well. We will do a special offer on a few of these where you can get the powerpack with a free diamond stone (see below). Also coming - some diamond grinding stones - not the usual ones - these are longer and last a long long long time. They don't seem to heat the tooth at all and do not deform so you always maintain correct tooth shape. They come in a coase and a fine version. The drawback? They will be £16-00+vat each!!!! However when we get these in we will offer a deal so that if you buy a stone and in 1 month you feel it has not lasted - we will replace with x3 packs of the normal grinding stones. [ame] [/ame]
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Modifiying the back of the cutter by removing a portion of the heel does seem to reduce heat build up at the nose of a carving bar but a LOT! You can do this for any size carving bar and any chain. We used a flap disc on a battery angle grinder which seemed to work well. A great vid from Simon O'Rourke here watch from 12 mins if short on time [ame] [/ame] Quick vid from CSB here [ame] [/ame] And have attached a snip from Ed Robinsons site here Ed Robinson's Wooden Things. Chainsaw carvings, sculptures & furniture. About me.
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To save wading through products there is now a search box you can use to find things more easily...
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The new CSB website has been running for a couple of months soon - can't say it has not been without it's teething issues! Anyways - there is now just one selector which does everything. You can see all our vids from just one place now and a few other improvements. We will now start posting vids as a seperate thread on arbtalk - we now link a lot more of the website products back to arbtalk so as customers can see feedback and comments. If you have issues with the new site then use the web refresh button on your browser (see pic below). You will have to set up as a new user on the website - but this is easily done as you check out.
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I think that pretty much sums it up - cetainly does for myself anyways.
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From my training days it was taught that yes these saws can be used one handed - but only for doing cuts away from the user ie. at arms length while reaching out with the saw. Never to be used for cutting and holding. On Reg videos he is very precise and controlled - always seems to be in a good work position. So probably pretty safe (for him!) But I dunno - from folk I've seen and spoken to in the industry (discussing injuries) over 12 years - 9 times out of 10 it's down to one handed cutting. Just my experience.
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Sorry to hear that. These do seem to fail prematurely before their time - from warranties we have worked out around 0.3 t - 0.4% of all Sugi bars sold. This is around the same return rate we get for Stihl and Oregon bars. When greasing the only thing to remember is that if there is excess grease in the nose run the saw very slowly initially to allow it to clear. This excess grease causes massive friction. It can also have a hydraulic effect on the bearing. This is probably the main cause of nose failure and why in some ways it is safer and easier to not grease regularly or even at all.
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On the Echos and other saws I've now found an excellent method of getting the sprocket off and no need to block the piston. An impact driver on the nut (of the sprocket removal tool) and because of the way the force is applied the resistance of the piston is enough for the clutch to come off. It has saved us a crazy amount of time given all our smaller saws we tend to change over to 1/4 drive sprockets.
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Fair enough.... but did you used to speed when you weren't retired and you did have places to get in a hurry? Honest answer please
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That's the truth of it - but we all do it! We all think it's fine to speed - just not outside our own front door!
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Not heard anything about that....
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Well done Justin - great work sir And well deserved if I may say sir (doff my cap smilee!)
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I used to run a fair few Cannon bars and they are not as durable as the Sugi bars in that they needed regular dressing. I didn't find them as stiff either... But they are still good bars... I'm not sure there is a best of the best guide bar - same as chain and same as chainsaws - there are better bars for certain situations and for certain people!
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Hi Al - we'll be getting the carving range back in in 1 months time. But ref the rest I'm not sure we'll keep them - $ is still very strong... The reason the bars are still up there is really so you can still get the chains for them easily in the selector.
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Spud's the man to ask - I wouldn't have a clue! If you lengthen the exhaust does it not effect how the air flow behaves? I'm not sure it is as quite so simple as bolting on a bit of pipe! It would be great to have the saw exhausting say at the far end of the mill and then that would save all fume related issues.
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Haha! Too true...
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Or at least not poisoning yourself as much anyway
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Yep that sounds about right but I can see why that would not suit some folk as that is a long time... but those saws will most likely go on for ever!
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After 10 years I'm still using Aspen 2T. Just so much easier and healthier espcially for milling. Worked out for a 12ft by 3.5ft plank 2.5" thick it costs an additional £1.50 to mill it using Aspen over regular... Def a marmite product ain't it!
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Haha - great work made me smile just looking at them!
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You could just start off with small log mill and a 20" lo pro bar/chain/drive sprocket for your 362. That would mill logs up to 18" and be pretty efficient to boot.
