Rob D

They don't quite work I'm afraid - however we think we may have a work around on the new end brackets which is pretty quick and easy. I've been using on a small log mill and seems to work pretty well but still need to test on an Alaskan. Only added the vid to facebook - but effectively to loosen you flip the black clamping handle, then use the finger nut to loosen the other side. Downside? Well the Granberg ones are empirial and we need metric so we are sourcing some metric U bolts.

Well I managed to watch around 3 mins of it (combined flicking through).... I think there are worse things in the world than having to wear a branded T shirt.

Have you gone to a 3/8 lo pro set up Bill? I'd say it is around 25% to 30% faster than standard chain.

Yep the 3/8 lo pro with Stihl PMX chain is a fast set up compared to standard 3/8 chain. With ref to the OP - your 661 should work fine with your 362 and be a good set up for double ended milling. You could do to a 72" double ended bar and 60" mill - change the rims to .404. I think I have now used x5 different set ups running different size saws at each end as well as x3 with the same saws at each end - they all worked well. If you get a double ended set up working right it is x3 as fast as any single powerhead (that is from feel rather than from fact). A recent vid of a log we did..... [ame] [/ame]

PS - a pretty long vid so one of the end of the day I reckon - well worth watching all the way through as his is an engineering background so he does come from things in from a non traditional type background.

Often get the sentence 'Sugi carving bars are alright but they don't last as long as Cannon carving bars' - which may well be true although the Sugi bars people are comparing are around 40% lighter than the Cannon equivalent. We now have the Sugi tough carvers which have been built thicker, no light weight area cut outs and thicker stellite at the tip. Anyways this fellow seems to know how to look after his bar - the body is in good condition and the nose stelite has only 1mm left to go! 2 and a half years of pretty regular use. No doubt some could disagree with many of the techniques but hard to disagree with the results. [ame] [/ame]

What a shock to hear this! Met Dave a couple of times - he did a bit of chainsaw milling and he dropped some wood for us to mill at a show once... motivated, up beat and genuinely nice down to earth bloke. One of us. A sad and tragic loss. Thoughts and prayers are with his family.

No we won't be at the arb show but you'll see Sorbus there and they will be displaying the Sugi bars....

Yes can do that - we have the 1/4 sprockets and you can have that 10" GB bar running Stihl 3670 59 drive links or Sugi 10" running 60 drive links of Sugi chain. I'll have to get the sprocket up on the CSB website..

This is not the 'final version' so if you can spot any mistakes answers on here please Is there anything missing? Is there any other info you'd like to see? We will be going to print with this in a month or so. Chainsawbars - Selectors for chainsaw guide bars, chains and sprockets

Like a lot of things there is no black and white answer. There are folk that can knacker their saw milling no matter what size bar they use. Others that have no issue with oversize bars on smaller saws. I broke a couple of saws in my early milling days - and it was pretty much entirely my fault - but at the time I didn't think so (cause I was a tree surgeon don't you know with a collection of 12+ chainsaws - course I must know what I'm doing!) You can pull a 36" GB Lo Pro bar on an MS461 as long as you know what you're doing. But there is certainly a greater chance of you buggering up the saw. There is less margin for chain sharpening errors/bad mill set up/saw abuse ie full speed with the saw screaming all the way down the log and then switching straight off at the end/poor sprocket/bar maintenace/poor saw maintenace..... So there isn't really a direct - yes you can run a 36" bar on an MS461 - because it depends on who is running the 461 !

You should be able to get Oak to 18% before putting it in to kiln further. But not sure how you would re sticker it to do this as the planks would usually have warped a little. You may have to stack them vertically.

Good idea but wedges better - much harder cutting and controlling a pushing chain.

The lo pro set ups now are really pretty superb for milling. They will allow you at least another 6" over and above what is said to be the max length bar.

Skip chain works better for oversize bars but on bars up to around and including 28" (depending on saw) a full comp chain would be more efficient.

Yes I'm afraid we can't source 5.2mm stones from anywhere... Most just use a 5.5mm but there may be someone somewhere who knows of 5.2mm stones.

ditto above - these chains may have a letter different but are one and the same chain.

Well I asked but an answer does not seem to be available! I'll have to wait until I can get hold of our rep.

If it makes it easier just forget square ground chain - it's not really relevant these days (because the amount of effort to sharpen it far outweighs any benefits you get).

As above

No clues just as yet... we want to get it as right as possible first time but we will do some sort of pre order offer for those who want to be guinea pigs! I've used it a few times and it seems to work well. There will also be a budget version as well so Chilaskan users need not miss out!

Seriously - there's a fair few reasons why you'd use an Alaskan over that.

Will ask again Andy.

Haha! That pic has just made me do a happy wee :blushing: Very hard to say how many £ as it depends on how you sell it. In the round? Planked but green?? Planked and dried??? Planked,dried and planed???? Also I expect it will vary from piece to piece. But got to be some magical figuring in that log make sure you put more pics up as you get into it.

Don't feed the troll gentlemen To the OP - really you want to work with a tree outfit first in some shape or form and see what the job is really like. You may just find the reality is very different to what you imagine it to be. Best to do that first before spending your hard earned £ on gear and tickets.