Rob D

Cheers - we're hoping this will work well for folk like that ie a good entry level mill so they can see if they enjoy the process and what they make... hopefully make a few £... and then they can look to gear up to bigger and better things.

Yep the mills fit any bar really but on an 18" bar you would only get 10" of cut width.....

Looking good

Whoops! In stock now - should work well with a 74" bar I reckon

You will always have a more efficient milling set up with an extra oiler as it applies oil direct to the cutting side of the bar. Also handy for those using smaller saw/larger bar combos. Quite a few people use them and quite a few don't! If you have the right saw you likely would be fine without one.

Yep find them here Eco-AO Auxillary Oiler Kit For Chainsaw Mills - Chainsawbars

Yep this mill is a smarter and better made version of the infamous Chilaskan... and a great price to boot.

You may well recognise these but they have a new name/stainless fittings/clear view panel/correct markings and a few other minor improvments. A budget mill for those looking to start chainsaw milling. Not as budget as some - some might say - we will be looking to distribute these through our dealer network. We'll only be doing these in a 36" version and for a limited time offer (ends midnight 11th June) they will come with a FREE oiler kit. £120-00+vat. Eco-36 *NEW* 36" Eco Chainsaw Mill + Oiler Kit [Free Oiler Kit Offer Ends midnight 11th June] - Chainsawbars

As above sycamore is going to be tricky to get to last outside even if coated up to the nines!

These bars aren't on the CSB website because they are non standard... so no way of linking the two but in future you can always order off one and then reduce the postage on the other to £0 so you are not paying twice.

Yep thanks - you will get tomorrow

Oh and these are the chainsaws these bars will fit: 39, 40, 42, 44, 45, 49, 50, 51, 55 57, 133, 134, 142, 154, 234, 235 238, 240, 242, 246, 254, 257 261, 262, 339, 340, 345XP, 346XP 350, 351, 353, 355, 357, 359 360, 440e, 445e, 450e, 455, 460 550XP, 555XP, 560XP

Good article - but in the real world? Most folk think of the summer coming up and the lack of light in their garden - they are just not intersted in looking 3 to 5 years in the future. Education is the way to go - but not on someone's doorstep - a good tv type series with someone good looking and famous would do it

We have some non standard bars we wish to move on - this first batch are all in .063 gauge for Husky saws (see below). Originally we thought it a good idea to supply Huksy K095 mount bars with a .063 gauge so then whether you use Stihl or Husky the bars would all take the same chain... Offer runs until we have a lower stock on these bars - we still want to keep a few - however many you buy you'll get a second of each type free. OFFERS Archives - Sugihara Guide Bars

Ok this should now be sorted.

We have some pretty big ideas - and now we have a good engineering firm to work with - so watch this space

I know the police can be useless - but it's got to be something for them. Instead of calling them why not take printouts and walk into your local station. Did you register all your saws on Steve's Arbsafe site? https://arbsafe.co.uk/ That way you have more proof they are yours.

I've mucked about a fair bit using green and semi dried timber. With the original question - the reason few answers is that it is not really something you can answer! It's the same as asking - how long does it take to go for a walk? How long does it take for a tree to grow? Dare I say how long is a piece of string Sooooooo so many variables are involved... But in summary - you can't have your cake and eat it - the wetter the wood the more chance of cupping and splitting. So make it sooner and you will likely get more defects - but does that really matter? Even kiln dried through sawn timber will cup after drying once the weight is off it. For myself I would make it asap - put it together (ideally somewhere warm like a polytunnel but if not somewhere under cover where the wind can blow though). After a few weeks disamantle and sand. Put inside (but put batons where the bed meets the carpet to avoid mold and use dry timber only for the mattress slats to avoid mold on the matress). After a year quick sand and treat in situ. Any cupping or splitting is part of the character.

No prob - that bar and chain combo give a lovely clean fast cut

Nice work there Kyle - that design works well with planks

Ah ok thanks - we will look into this.

Bit weird - works for me - what browser were you using on both the PC and the phone? I shall investigate!

What he said!

You have a lot of peening on the tie straps on both chains but particualrly the chain on the right which looks to be new ish. This may or may not be related to what is going on with the chain riding up but it is not normal. Obvious cause is worn drive sprocket.... but may not be this but worth getting to the bottom of why that is happening.

Some cracking milling pics there