Brushcutter

Have you considered a Jake plate mounted crane? What you loose in visibility you make up for in stability. If you want to get into tight spaces look at a 6000 series Valmet. If you want something a bit bigger thus stable look at an 8000 series Valmets. As for a crane Botex if your on a budget anything Scandinavian if you want something a bit more expensive but a bit more thinning friendly. As for lift don't bother with less than 6m anything 7 is a nice 8 is better. Really depends on how you set the sites up to use the crane. Longer reach does normally mean a bigger base unit for the stability. Leaver controls are simple and easy to fix and any operator can jump in and use it. EH is more expensive and fiddly and you need a good opperator to make the most of the increase in productivity.

Thats what i call it and thats what i use it for too.

I have a metal box from Screwfix ment for power tools. I have one for each saw: Roller guide/guide plate. Spare files (in either a box or a mc straw) Flat file Depth gauge tool Feeler gauges Combi spanner Carb screw driver Allan keys Paint brushes Grease gun. Also got some spares 2x chains break band sprocket Needle bearing Spark plug Starter cord.

It will cost a small fortune. NFU wont touch you till your over 25. From experience most companies wont insure you on a 4x4 until your 21 (at least for a price thats worth doing it for). When i was 20 i wanted a Land Rover 110 CSW. A tidy example from 84 was about 6k to insure it was about 1800 quid. Didn't get one in the end. 4x4 Insurance & Off Road Insurance from Adrian Flux might be a place to start. A older Landy might be worth looking at though. One of my friends has one pays over 1k in insurace for it though he is 19.

There have been some very nice 1270B floating around recently.

Been felling Larch last two days and its very sappy. In fact yesterdays stumps had pools of sap on them this morning. If it doesn't get cold soon birds will be nesting before we know it.

How did you find the Krpan? Currently loving mine.

125 is enough. PTO runs at tick over. Normally on manual winches upping the PTO speed just increases line speed which decreases pulling power. I've put a block on the log i want to pull run the cable top of winch to block through lower pully then back to the log. lots of winching power.

I knew a guy who did the night shift in the harvester i drove. He felled a tree up the side of the cab and took is sight of top knife rather than felling link. An oh dear brown pants moment as a few m3 of tree came towards him. Bonked the cab and took out every light on the roof bent every guard. Oh and it trying to avoid hitting the cab over rotated the head and burst many pipes. Importantly him and the machine were fine. Just muggins here at to fix it in -22 degrees so he could get back in and work the night. To this day i hate felling up the side of the machine. Lets say the learning curve is steep. Have a look at this [ame] [/ame]

Well a harvester is basically a digger with extra buttons. The real thing about them is keeping the calibration good. This means checking what the sensors are telling you taking real world measurements. So you run out say a 3.7m saw log with a 175mm t/d the however the machine can over/under cut in length within the cutting window. You have to measure the log and enter real length compared to the measured. The same with log diameter. Often the machines come with a set of calipers that allow you to do this and dock with the computer and configure the calibration. All you have to do is check it and off you go. Have you say a 7.5-8t digger? You could put a harvester head on that. Then a timber trailer behind a tractor. As already mentioned a stroke processor could be a cheaper easier option. There is a thread on here about them. As

I went in a ditch once didn't care for it. Hey i moved to Finland for a year was offered work in S. Africa and Australia after that. I just like being in the shire, home is home. I went to Devon a little while back too.

Still doing surveys out in Wales V?

8.5 should be unstoppable. I've nearly pulled the Valtra over with a 6.5t admittedly on a slope. Just make sure the front of the tractor is balasted or the tractor weights enough not to flip with 8.5t of pull. Mendiplogs is right though you only get full pull when the drum is empty or has 6 or so wraps on it. It does sound like something isn't right. I expect you need to put about 75+hp through the winch are you delivering that? Not sure if making your own hydraulic circuit to control the clutch is a good idea. Could be run off a spool but i'm not sure it would still be CE and fit for purpose if you start welding bits on and attaching things.

Not normally a mog fan but that looks the business.

I'd of thought about £10 a tonne. Just a stab at it but feeding a horse aint cheap.

Spend the extra 60 quid on an XPG the heated handles are worth their weight in gold.

That tractor spends more time in the shop than in the woods. You must be harder on them than me:lol:

Is it a 85E or a 85EH? One is manual one is electro hydraulic just have different things that may need adjusting. Is it a new winch out of the factory if so the something is faulty then get the dealer out to fix it. If it's used then something needs adjusting. If it is new get the whole cable out be it 20m or 100m and either winch something to it or the tractor back to it to get a good tension and lay of the cable on the drum. It sounds your problem is either the drive belt or chain slipping after 20 hours or so from new the stretch a little bit. Or its the clutch either the friction plate is burnt a little (rough it up with sand paper). Its more likely that the clutch is just out of adjustment. However if you adjust them wrong it can wear the clutch out and you need a new one. Unfortunately i don't know how to adjust a Uniforest clutch. Done many a manual fransgard which involves tightening nuts up then backing them off. Took a Fransgard apart before Christmas and a lot of the problems were caused by little bit of corrosion on the shaft the drum mounts on. Some things to think about for you.

Ok had a thought of some costs I use to use 400l a week in a 1270b in 2nd thinnings. that was running it 16 hours ish a day 5 days a week. Would often need 10l of hydraulic a week. assuming that you didn't bust a big hose. Pain tanks would need topping up every other day. So about 10 liters of red/blue paint a week. A grease cartage a week 10 chains would be on the machine that you would change to the next one then sharpen them on your days off. Bars you want one on one spare. Depending on your facilities to straighten them you may need replacements. on stand by. Bigger trees normally bend them. Service kit filters and all will be around 500 quid. Gear oil for for bogies and gear boxes will be however many litres of EP90 it works out to be at 60 quid for 20litres. Hydraulic oil ISO 42 will be a few hundred quid. Engine oil will be 60 quid ish. Seal kits for the feed motors on the head quite often need changing as they tend to weep a bit because they get a lot of abuse Hoses do wear out so on a s/h machine 20% of the hoses that run under the crane piviot will need replacing as they will have rubbed and now leak. Some ideas there. IF anything electrical goes on an older machine your really into problems. It took nearly 20 hours to fix a breaking problem in a 1070 once and that was with a full workshop and a JD engineer. More of my ramblings to digest. Unless you have lots of wood to cut i'd say get handcutters and if the site will take it agri based forwarding. Also you got a market for the wood.

Not sure the figures will add up is my first feeling. How many years of 1000m3 of thinnings do you have? The biggest cost is having a good harvester operator. They can make or break your production one who pushes too hard will cost you in down time and one who is too conservative will not get you enough wood to cover costs. As for the harvester you looking at a 770 A or B? still going to be a big sum of money. Base unit will be ok but depending on hours work and drive pumps could be on their last legs and hard work to change in the field at least. With the 810 forwarder rear bogies are easy nackered by overloading so something to be warey of.

That is one tidy county.

A new krpan 9.5 tonne winch with radio remote is around 7000 + vat. Might be cheaper than a used island.

You may already know but if you phone the dealer they will put you in contact with the nearest user for a demo. Does open you up to lots of dealer sales calls though.

I'm afraid not. If your thinking of the little ones they're too big/heavy to go on a Landy trailer making them only moveable on lorries. Charlieh on here has an Alstor similar forwarder to a Vimek but is landy towable. A friend of mine drove some over in Sweden, he went to the factory too. He wasn't overly impressed with them. Or the cost come to that.

Been running it for just over a year now. Never (touch wood) had any problems with it. Prefer the auto tune to be honest.