Brushcutter

GCSEs are very expensive. About a grand each with the exam fees. It might be worth talking to the school and finding the out what exam board they use. Most likely AQA for history. Then see if you can do the exams and coursework through them as they have him as a registered candidate and see if you can just buy the lesson material online. Or even better if the could just record the lessons for you at the school and you just homeschool it.

The Jenson rollers also move up only on one side keeping really good contact on both big and little material.

Great sales team but the back up isn't great.

Is it Tuckwells ? I bet it's Tuckwells.

Get some demos. I really like the Greenmech Evo 165 but others I work with don't and prefer the 230 from timberwolf. I like the 230 but I think the forst and Greenmech feel more productive. Jensons I like the 540 with the tapered rollers great on bendy bits. What I don't like on the Jenson is you get an extra oil because the drive to the rollers is oil immersed. If you go down to the 530 with the old school stress control reset you will be sad. I personally hate the Jenson and forst buttons.

Marking trees is a personal thing. I swap between using tape and spray. I really dislike blazing because it's easy to miss one when cutting. When choosing your marking colour choose something that contrasts nicely against the tree. Don't mark Pines and Larches in reds and orange as the don't show up well. Watch out for red and green as colourblind cutters might not see all the marks(true story). If marking a big area I do like using the Finnish marking system which uses tape. Red is the boundary if the knot on the tape faces you, you are within the boundary. Corners have two red ribbons on. You should be able to see ribbons down the line of trees. Blue ribbon marks environmental features. Could be waterways to avoid, nesting birds etc don't cut or cross into blue tape area. Orange is for racks when you were marking them. Tape on every 5 to 10 or so tree so you can see where the rack goes. Depending on if you are rack distances are somewhere between 5 and 7 rows normally slightly wider if hand cut.migjt be some ghosting racks in there. Basically if you have a 10m crane on the harvester he will reach 10m ish from that rack. The next rack will let the machine reach back to almost the same point.

What size area are you talking and what size trees? Could it be more cost effective to put some good hard cutters in get it down and stacked the go in with the digger and chipper to tidy up.

Thats about the money. The employers is the expensive bit. Mines a bit higher but the training stuff ups that.

Trust and arborisk will be your big two. I think trust do a discount if your a FCA member. The employers is the expensive bit. I'm with arborisk and I have pl el and tools all with them.

Thinking of getting some Nicks boots from the good old us of a. Boots designed for logging in Oregon should manage a Conny hedge in the burbs.

Velvet Ash maybe Fraxinus velutina.

It's a difficult question. Minimum skills and minimal ability still means minimum wage for a legal standpoint. There are lots of people out there doing it for minimum wage because they are yong and the Arb industry are tolerant of things other industries aren't (does depend on the employer). I see lots of people go into Arb but I see quite a few drop out after a few years. Mostly to do with money. My attitude is always pay people what they're worth. If your self employed and making less than 150 a day, especially if your supplying fuel or kit. Your wasting you time.

I've used the IM imer 19m mewp a fair few times. It's heavy but doesn't quite have the sway of the hinowa. Like all machines I've hired has some sensor tantrums. However it is a very nice machine.

I ordered one ages ago and one day it just turned up. I really wanted a 339xp but I never got one and they go for silly money second hand so I knew I had to get in at the begining on this as husky didn't make that many 339. 540 Vs 550. They do different things well. The 550 is a shedding machine with it's rev boost and will cut big stuff well. It's my go to saw The 540 is light, really light and for the weight it is very powerful. The ergonomics are great it's no 550 but it's good because it weights nothing. I like the fact it doesn't scream like a 550 it's a little tamer on the throttle response but when you want power it is there. Works well in the MEWP and on the forest floor. It's a great little saw for coppicing and small felling. I think I payed 620 quid for it so it was fairly cheap for a provisional saw. And I really do rate it...

I would recommend the 540xp. Light nimble and has lots of power for a 40cc saw. I think if you were to get it ported it would be ridiculous. Stock it comes with the 3/8p 1.3mm guage but has the option of running .3251.1mm guage which is the same as it's battery counterpart which may make it a little faster in the cut. I really like mine I as it's so light and nimble. I use it on stuff that really took big for it but it works. The only thing is the chain tensioner is a little weak if someone gets it stuck and gets to pull it out

I feel for you. I broke mine in July on a Sunday riding my bike. had surgery on the Monday afternoon to put it back together. 1 plate 8 screws hold it together. 6 weeks signed off. The. Something like 3 months of doing physio and light work. Still hurts still not as strong as it was. Hopefully without the surgery you should heal quicker.

Varioclean by STIHL. Makes old crappy case covers look like new.

Not everyone in St Alban's own a Range Rover. Some of them go to the Ford garage and get a full spec Ranger.

The mums for lungs posters are up in the local supermarket on the community boards here.

What is a nice feature is a swivel hook. I had one on an old winch and it was really useful to have. Downside is it cost more than the cable. It also has a much more substantial gate than your standard hook.

Yes the handle. I've often thought about cutting it shorter so it fits in the box. Then when something gets proper stuck and you want the full length handle so it still forget length. I can tell you from personal experience that a husky universal axe fits nicely on the turbo stub. Works well to a point....

If you need to do a lot of big winching then a petrol/2 stroke one is the one to go for.yes they are serious money but they are quick and powerful. If you don't want to spend too much but want something capable then a turfor clone is what you want. Get a 1.6 tonne one because the 3 and 5 tonne ones are so heavy. I've got a 1.6t jet hoist with 20m of cable 3 strops and a redirect block. Fits all in a 64 litre really useful box. Then sits in the truck but a god send if you need it. Did drag it over a mile on Friday. Wasn't pleased with that. Some people really swear by lug all style Winches which are lighter but I've never got on with them.

I think that feeling is piles.

Have you looked at merit check?