Brushcutter

On a side note are house insurance, national insurance, health insurance and vehicle insurance all.part.of the same insurance racket? I know volcano insurance is legit. Asking for a friend.

Up until recently the Stihl one was over 100 quid cheaper. I really wanted the husky one but at nearly 850 with the vat from some suppliers and an unknown delivery date I nearly got the Stihl.

Thank you.

When do you think the really overpriced rear handle one will be available?

Over the years I've had may set ups. Depending on what I am doing. The 50cc saw with a 13" or 15" bar is my go to and has been for many many years. If I'm doing slightly bigger stuff I tend to go for a 60cc saw with an 18" bar. This covers most situations. If I was to pick one id just have a 50cc.saw with bars from 13 15 and 18 inch bars. If I could take two I'd have a 70cc with and 18 and 24 inch bars. I've always had husky saws but if you wanted one saw I'd be tempted by the ms400.

Seems the right sort of money. Use to use one a bit bigger than that. Are you going to run it 3 phase or swap it to 240

Mcconel power trim I think it is called. It has 4 circular saws in a row and the biggest one will do up to 6" You will need a bit tractor to put it on. There are dealerships that have them in their hire fleets. You do need to be a good operator to make it work well.

4m to 1,8m is quite a reduction. If any of the growth is over about 3" the flail will make a big mess of it so you maybe better off with a saw blade rather than a flail. I normally flail with a baby flail on 100hp tractor and that is a 5m reach flail so you are already looking at quite the tractor flail set up to do it. If you don't have cab glass on the avsnts make sure you have some operator protection because the flails throw stuff everywhere including in the cab.

I think the code 107 limits you to 8.2 ISH tonnes with a trailer on your c1+e. All depends on what the arb tipper is. If it is a 3,5 tonne vehicle everything is easy. If it is a 7.5 tonne then it will be more complicated. Not sure if being for private use will except you from insoections

Tried Alpine Forestry. From memory they are Northampton based

Short answer is yes you do.

I think there is a lot of truth in that. As cool as a county is it lacks the versatility and comfort of a modern 6 cylinder tractors. Same with harvesters and forwarders.

Hedge cutting is a rewarding yet soul destroying job. When your done it looks great but getting there is very hard work. If you are starting out then get a battery hedge cutter the vibrations are significantly reduced making it more pleasant and will give you some longevity doing the job. Really you need hand held and a long reach one. Normally just a rough cutting one will do but if you get some nice tight yew or layland a fine trimmer does make a difference. The tidy up is the hard bit. A tarp leaf blower rakes and brushes are a must. If your trimmings are leafy a low cut on a good mower can make a big job to easier.

Two hundred pounds won't get you far these days I'm afraid. if you want to do your chainsaw course and plan to use your PPE on your course and working it's worth spending a bit to be comfortable. I teach a fair few chainsaw courses and one of the things that disadvantages people the most is being uncomfortable in the gear. Screwfix do a good range of Oregon chainsaw PPE. A pair of proper boots can be had for £100 now and a worth that over a pair of wellies. An pair of treehog chainsaw gloves and an Oregon hat and some Oregon trousers would come iñ about 30 quid or so over budget. It's also worth getting proper trousers rather than chaps as these can be problematic on some courses.

Only cost in that I'm afraid. Nobody will do it for the firewood or the timber. There is a lot of work to get it down and then some serious kit to get the wood out. In short the cost of removal is more than it is worth You may get some money off if the timber stays on site. There is a video about a valuable walnut tree but I won't post it

Chain oil is expensive now especially the oregon stuff. For many years I used Clark forest bio oil as it was required for the sites I worked on. Last few years I've been using husky mineral oil which can be had for about 60 quid for 20 litres.

Any stem over 8mm between the 2nd and 3rd node. 1.5ml of neat product per stem. There is also a stem filling technique. Cut it off quiet high up and fill it up wirh diluted gylphosate within 15mins I have never done that technique.

The best way to get rid of knotweed is to inject it. I use round up pro vantage 480 injected into the stem after flowering. As you are going to get to your maximum dose in one application if you want to hit it earlier spray it with something with a different active ingredient.

The franagard doing it's thing.

I have a franagard 6,5 tonne. It's fully manual which makes assisted felling a pain. I use iglands krpans and uniforests over the years. All have their pros and cons. I like the big krpans personally which radio remote and auto brake. Makes pre tensioning for felling very easy. Not used a franagard or an igland with a radio remote only the manual which is less good than a remote. Get the biggest you can afford. If you have a 6 tonne which and only put out half the cable you could have 3 to 4 tonnes of pull. They do constant pull winches now they get round the drum wire gearing. Tractor wise I've had a 9t winch on a 100hp tractor with a loader and grab. It was a bit lively sometimes. 9 tonne on 125hp tractor was really stable. 6.5 winch on a 75-100 is a solid base.

Hi I have a Husqvarna 520iHE3 and the trigger is being a little twitchy. When ever you turn it on its side the throttle dies off to a about 50%. Turn it over and it runs fine. Seems to be some wear in the trigger wiggly it and works. anybody else had problems. Is this a new trigger job or a new board? cheers

More cable on the drum gives longer reach but as you say the pulling power on full drum is reduced. The cable on the drum acts as a gear. I use a an extension cable with some chokers on it. Which the 25m extension in and then swap everything to the main cable. I must admit despite being tempted by a textile cable I've never made the switch from steel. I tried steel with a nylon core but hated it.

I've mulching blades on both. Personally I've preferred the 360 over the 410.

Do you mean the brackets for a bucket which might not be the standard euro 8? If so then agri linc is your friend. If you are after a subframe the arms the loader goes into that is a harder find. New they may still make one. If you want a used one then machinery auctions would be the place to look.

The biggest thing is to look after yourself nobody else is going to do that for you. The terrain can be harsh the weather is often crap. Hammering wedges is bad on the elbows and lifting stacking and dragging all takes its toll. Find a good physio and do some stretches each day before and after work. Know when to stop. Hopefully that will stop you ending up in the physically broken cutter pile. The courses will teach you a lot and once you get into the more forestry orientated courses the people on it can become valuable contacts for getting work. Other than that phone around local companies. The forestry contractors association have a directory of members and their areas. Go and see them introduce yourself and see what happens. One of the big things about being a hand cutter is that work in most areas is always away from it. Just because the company is 5 miles away doesn't mean their work is not 100 miles away. Local estates may have forestry teams but it is quite seasonal and the pay isn't great. When I worked on an estate the winter was forestry the spring tree surveys and summer grass cutting and then back to forestry. One thing you could do is try to see if a cutter will have you for a day stacking for them. You can watch them work see the difference between felling one tree and working a forest of trees for felling. A copy of practical forestry for the agent and surveyor can be had quite cheaply second hand. This will give you a lot of the forest terminology explained and the theory of how woods are managed. Be able to ID your common trees. If your knocking over oaks and it's mean to be ash you won't work again! Keep stumps low stacks brash free and stems dressed clean and length and grades correct. You don't need all the gear at once. The basics yes but don't worry about ranges of saws at the start. Always have more fuel that you need. Spear bars and chains are a must. I have a little aluminium flight case that holds a file kit 2 spare chains a combi spanner a shot of emergency 2 stroke oil.