Brushcutter

Stationary or on some wheels. I've not decided yet. I like to do 230v AC. I'd thought about going hydraulic but it has a few complications over a 230v motor for my intended purpose. It's really for wheeling around and doing sprayer calibration training a other bits for Nroso points for people. So ideally i don't want it on a tractor at all.

Hello, I would like an electric motor to power some bits of PTO equipment mainly a sprayer (long story). Since it's only a fairly small pump it won't require much power - currently runs nicely off a MF230. However i'd like an electric motor that i can power it with. I'd still like the PTO shaft so i'd like to go motor PTO shaft pump. Any suggestions? Thanks Andrew

http://www.quantockengineering.co.uk/ They did the sawmill on the estate i use to work on. They overhalled and installed a 24" Wadkin planer thicknesser for us as well.

It's commonly a tounge and groove felling cut. Often referred to as a Huntley hinge but isn't. A Huntley doesn't have the touge but a long cut hinge to keep it on the stump. The purpose of it is to making a felling bench to aid processing in forestry. It works quite well from stopping trees falling off the stump when felling in tight spots too.

Do you not have your Valtra yet so you can do the over 2.5 tonne as well. When i did my FMOC it was 1.3 wheeled rigid and it wasn't broken down by size.

http://www.riko-uk.com/category/winches-pto-driven-drum That will give you a rough price guide. To have any meaningful use in assisted felling you need the electro hydraulic as you can keep keeps the brake on so you can apply tension and it brakes to that tension. A manual is on and off and that isn't useful in assisted felling.

If you want to pull stuff over you really need to get an electrohydraulic winch. As for pulling power as much as you can afford. With 100hp you should be easily able to power 8-9 tonnes. If you dont know the drum acts as a gear so when you have all the cable out you get max pull and it decreases from there. There is also constant pull winches which are hydraulically powered normally. Life changing inventions that once you have used you cant do without included powered outfeed and a radio remote. I can recommend Uniforest and Krpan. I have used 4,6,6.5,8 and 9.5 over the years and bigger is better until it comes to specing up blocks and strops that could in theory take twice the load. I have a 6.5 and it covers most things but i'd rather an 8. Mine is alll manual and i miss all the bells and whistles that i use to have. I'd rather a 4.5t electro hydraulic than a 6.5 manual i think if you want it for felling. Your looking at 3.5 to 7 k for the winch depending on how big you go.

We have the STIHL one. It is very good, less vibration and noise than the petrol one. They are slightly top heavy compared to their petrol counterpart as the motor is up there. Wouldn't trade it a petrol one.

I've never got on with logging belts. The pounches do wear in and get a bit more flexable. I have a range of bit that go on it depending on what i'm doing. I use a pair of these to carry wedges https://www.landmarktrading.com/holster-for-felling-wedges.html Then i have a hammer holder and some husky pouches with timber tongs. This seems to work quite well. I use to have a felling rucksack that i could carry tools in and take them off when i needed them.

http://www.tractordata.com/

I've seen it done but it's not commonly done. I think if you register it as an AMV then get it's free tax and then insure it your most of the way there. Next issues would be lights, mirrors. Speed rating on the tyres might be an issue and in my deep dark memory i seem to remember about steering on the minisicks being an issue. This could be why all the forwards i've seen on the road are Old Valmets and Rottnes . Might be worth a phonecall to someone in the FCA. If anyone will know the 100% answer it will be them

Breaks should have its own flat face valve and if there are two one will be your free flow set up as male. Do you have 6 valves on the back so 3 levers in the cab? Or two leavers and 3 valves if its the latter the crane oil send wants to go on the one on its own and the drawbar on the dual acting one.

I expect you need 60-80 lpm to run the thing. You need to plug one into a single acting spool which you can set to a constant flow and the other side into either a free flow return or a case drain. Basically oil goes into the block and through the crane then it come back to the tractor right back into the tank. You can run it through the spool but it's not brilliant as the return rate is a little constricted and adds unnecessary heat to the hydraulic system. Things get a bit more complex if you are running pilot hydraulic lines for the controls or if you are running a CVT with load sensing.

How do you find the seat. It doesn't look very comfortable as a big air seat.

That is cheap. Almost worth just having one at that price for the one time you will really really need it. Much cheaper than the original one.