Brushcutter

Do the level 4 and 5 and 6 if you can. Tree life and a few colleges offer it. The reality of doing surveys is that the fun bit is in the field. The hard work is writing it all up so you.might as well do the academic side. Look up the PTI book list. Read it get out and look at trees. You need to be good at tree ID, being excellent helps. You need to know your common decay fungi. Spent your free time learning. Spend your work time learning. If you have the level 2 Arb then then ISA exam is the same level. But more info in it than a city and guilds qualification. Exams are a few times a year Book yourself a lantra basic trees inspection and go from there. To this day the PTI is the hardest course I've done.

All those bars are very good. I do like my sugi bars but I'm liking tsumura bars at the moment. I've got some GB bars but In my experience they chip a bit. Run some Oregon 73jxl on it. I've never gone down to .50 on 3/8 so I can't tell you if it is any good. I run a 24 on my 572 and it's great.

Does it have an emergency stop button. One of the locking ones. If I does look at that.was.working with a 280 last week that if you used one of the 3 it didn't work properly. Had a fault in the box wiggle the estop and it worked properly

Another vote for theR tech 181. Lovely little welders.

I've struggled to get parts for old isekis before. Newer ones were easy but the one I wanted bits for was 90s vintage and the dealership couldn't get the OEM parts. With the bits you require there. Bearings and seals can be measured and picked up from a supplier. If you're not confident with that take them into your dealership and a good parts desk worker should be able to sort you out. Your bevel gears might be a generic gear especially if iseki buy their axels in. If you can't get them a small machine shop would most likely be able make them up.

Ooo some vintage classics in there and two modern classics in a new boxed 200t and.a 372 in bits.

A quick search suggest that they have. Few other people make the push trimmers just not quite as good as their ones

My favourite all time machine was the husky 345 fxt. Thumb throttle and heated handles and the shorter shaft. It was designed for clearing trees with the circular saw attachment making it a clearing saw as opposed to a brush cutter. The 345rx was good but the early 545 were crap and then I used Stihl 361 411 and 461 and their older stablemates for years. I want a 460k or even better a heated handle husky clearing saw but they don't sell those here and they are expensive shipping one over. The new curiform line cf3 from Stihl is my favourite line at the moment. If you are doing fairly flat terrain then a DR push trimmer with the biggest cord you can fit is ace.

Have you tried the reusable furrels? You can screw the end BSP/JIC coupler in the end. A bit bulky but I use to use them on grapple hoses. For when I knocked them on the bolster pins.

Minimum wage is over £11 now and there is easier ways to earn that than Arb.

Yes. The local chainsaw shop seems to be selling a lot more 525 husky blowers. I have a little husky blower that is teamed up the br700. The husky one seems to be as good

I know a few people that have had the problem. I'm lucky and not had it. Apparently it's because the bearing cages are plastic now.

560 just out of warranty hardly any work......I call crank seals....air leak causing hard starting and poor performance.

With most Winches you don't need a lot of horse power. As you don't need a lot of power to turn the input shaft. The gearing on power train and the drum do the rest. Most Winches use the cable drum as a gear so when you have all the cable off the drum you get maximum pull. 50hp would be on the low end for a 5 tonne winch I think a fransgard might be lower in hp than igland. It's most likely to do with the linkage size and the weight of the machine as much horse power requirement. My 6,5 has always run on 100 to 115hp but I doubt it's ever used that much. However the fact that it's about a tonne before you load up the butt plate with logs.

You're really under valuing your time. I think the last thing I had fixed was my 660 which spud did and that was a good deal. Most of the time now most repairs are 50 60 quid an hour plus parts. Heaven forbid you only have an tractor dealership to fix your kit or that workshop cost is closer to £100.

Ms 400 if you can only have one sawn which does everything. If you don't need a near 70cc saw them you can do wrong with a 550.

You can take the ISA cert Arb at some training centres at a time that almost suits you. You don't have to wait for the 2 or 3 paper exams a year. You also get the results then and there. I'm not sure the ISA cert Arb is level 3. It should be if it isn't but I'm sure its a level 2. Either way if you get the study book and the cd and listen to it in the truck each day you will make good progress through it.

GCSEs are very expensive. About a grand each with the exam fees. It might be worth talking to the school and finding the out what exam board they use. Most likely AQA for history. Then see if you can do the exams and coursework through them as they have him as a registered candidate and see if you can just buy the lesson material online. Or even better if the could just record the lessons for you at the school and you just homeschool it.

The Jenson rollers also move up only on one side keeping really good contact on both big and little material.

Great sales team but the back up isn't great.

Is it Tuckwells ? I bet it's Tuckwells.

Get some demos. I really like the Greenmech Evo 165 but others I work with don't and prefer the 230 from timberwolf. I like the 230 but I think the forst and Greenmech feel more productive. Jensons I like the 540 with the tapered rollers great on bendy bits. What I don't like on the Jenson is you get an extra oil because the drive to the rollers is oil immersed. If you go down to the 530 with the old school stress control reset you will be sad. I personally hate the Jenson and forst buttons.

Marking trees is a personal thing. I swap between using tape and spray. I really dislike blazing because it's easy to miss one when cutting. When choosing your marking colour choose something that contrasts nicely against the tree. Don't mark Pines and Larches in reds and orange as the don't show up well. Watch out for red and green as colourblind cutters might not see all the marks(true story). If marking a big area I do like using the Finnish marking system which uses tape. Red is the boundary if the knot on the tape faces you, you are within the boundary. Corners have two red ribbons on. You should be able to see ribbons down the line of trees. Blue ribbon marks environmental features. Could be waterways to avoid, nesting birds etc don't cut or cross into blue tape area. Orange is for racks when you were marking them. Tape on every 5 to 10 or so tree so you can see where the rack goes. Depending on if you are rack distances are somewhere between 5 and 7 rows normally slightly wider if hand cut.migjt be some ghosting racks in there. Basically if you have a 10m crane on the harvester he will reach 10m ish from that rack. The next rack will let the machine reach back to almost the same point.

What size area are you talking and what size trees? Could it be more cost effective to put some good hard cutters in get it down and stacked the go in with the digger and chipper to tidy up.

Thats about the money. The employers is the expensive bit. Mines a bit higher but the training stuff ups that.