Brushcutter

No. Winches and step cuts is what you will be taught.

What bio oil are you using? I use the STIHL stuff and it's very runny. I don't do carving so i'm probally not going to have the same issues as your self. If you use the plant oil brand bio oil its like glue. I mean it's seriously sticky stuff. Try changing brand see if it makes it any better. Have you tried just regular veg oil? I find WD40 and stiff brush cleans most things....

Careful with the grease. It does mix well with the friction plate at the back of the drum.

What bit on the drum is sticking? is the chain to the drive the drum ok? I've broken them a few times just need to pop a repair link in them. OH if you can spool all the wire off the drum it makes removal 10x easier. I can get you a photo of a V6500 single drum winch parts diagram. It will show how it comes apart. The design looks very similar.

Ok i think that the two nuts with the bolts sticking out adjust the clutch. The big one is the drum retaining bolt. You need to take those off remove the activation leaver, break mechanism and the clutch leving you with the drum . I weighs i recon about 35kg without any wire on it. I have man handled one out of a single drum winch that was sticking. Used lots of wd 40 on the shaft then lots of wiggling to get it off. On the first picture you can see the end of the drum mount spindle. you could tap that through and then remove the drum.

I think first time around it was just pads. Second time it was discs and pads. Both should of been done first time. Shoddy work at the garage i think.

I have an 07 plate one. I do about 50 miles a day in it and it's very comfy to drive. Do fairly regular 100 mile+ trips in it. Prefer it to a car tbh. It's an Outlaw spec one so its got the cruse control and fancy gadgets. Done about 30k in the 2 years i've owned it. As for bad points. I've had the front UJs go on both end of the front shaft. Set of gear box seals - now due another . 4wd sensor playing up now - could be linked to oil coming through seals. 2 sets of front disc in the last 18 months. I do really like it. Get about 33mpg out of it, although I'm not sure I'd have another.

I know someone who didn't crook their drawbar the right way with a big 15 tonne forwarder trailer without legs. Lets just say it needed another machine to get it upright .

Tried phoning Smart platforms hire in Hemel Hempsted and asking if they know anybody?

Didn't know this.

Did that take a bit of wedging hence the broken maul.

With a hook on each end it wont go through a key hole slider though.

Fontayne Signs in St. Albans 01727 832146. They did the transits where i use to work and some signs printed onto ally as well. Very easy to deal with.

From my 2011 experience - No discount. Problem is that all the best ones are imported so you get price fluctuation there and then stung for import duty. Then delivery to the dealer then delivery to you. There until relatively recently not a massive volume UK sales thing. Then the dealers need to make some money on them so i can totally understand why there is no discount. Oh they normally come in bits too so have to be constructed. I've never used a Vreten crane or trailer. I did see one at a firewood demo though on a JAKE plate. The trailer it's self looked very well designed, solid plate at the bottom of the head board for 10" or so and on sides of bunk one to stop tiny bits going every where. Really good guarding on the steering rams too. The crane was powerful yet quick, the guy who ran it changed from having a botex a he snapped it off at the knuckle. He had broken the grapple though but was now sporting a very nice corona steel grapple. Should of asked the fella for a go really. As for others as good a Kelsa well anything from Scandinavian countries really. Kronos are good, very good infact but make sure you're sitting down when the price come back. FMV/Moheda make some top notch units just remember on some of them legs are an extra. Make sure you get them.

I'm really pleased with my chipper/semi chisel on the 3' 660 bar. Yes it cuts a little slower but a lot smoother. Also when you hit something in the bark or the wood its not done for. Very good if your doing big windblow or proper low stumps.

Cheers fella. There it is Oregon 73/75 DPX who would of though it. How exciting. Wonder if it would swap some 73LPX for some DPX. Ouch 300+vat for a 100' reel. Fortunately i only need a loop or two.

It's so hard to get semi chisel big saw chains your stuck with full chisel really. Not a chisel fan really, much prefer the semi chisel to work with. I have some Oregon ripping chain on my 660 at the moment sharpened to 30 degrees. Works really nicely with a nice curve radius on the work corner almost like a chipper chain.

Can you still get Husky saws without the bars on? Many moons ago you could get power heads only.

Yea needles make a massive difference. Just got 5 new chains with needle ends 3x2.5m and 2x3m all in 10mm.

These ALO log beaks are good. Downside if you move long big timber around a lot the welds on all the ram pins crack. Although that was through many years abuse and in some cases misuse.

Have you changed the hydraulic oil or topped it up with another thicker grade? I put UTO in my kwikchip once thinking it works in the tractor hydraulics it must work in this. It didn't feed rollers hardly went round after a long warm up there wsa some movement. If its just come on its belt tension. Had that problem too.

Used and abused many a 357xp. One lad dropped a tree on my own broke off two cylinder fins, never did it any harm. It also had the bit above the choke broken off. That got glued on with epoxy. They're very good saws not as chuckable as a 346 but has more grunt. It will pull an 18" bar but its not very lively. At home on a 15" bar but stick a 13" on it and you will fly through stuff and love it. From my experience of them owning them. My one at least ate needle bearings. Although not expensive it was a PITA and greasing didn't seem to adjust the critical failure rate. After a few years of good use the need a very good carb cleaning or even better a replacement. They run very rough then score the piston and die if you dont do that (guess how i know that). Bottom line they're solid professional saws that will take a lot of abuse both physical and mechanical before being sentenced to the scrap pile. If it looks good and the price is right might be worth going for it.

Last time i put 30m of 11mm 7/19 cable on a drum in was about 99 quid plus vat and delivery.

Except if you go to by some chains for Husky saws. Causes a tantrum every time.

Big lifts are for trailers. The 2.8t lift of the botex is really wasted on the roof unless you like damaging axles and tipping over.