Brushcutter
-
Posts
3,303 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Brushcutter
-
Tried rebuilding one once....now i have a shaft a big spring and a box of innards in a box in the corner.
-
Two very different machines really. If you do domestic stuff i'd say a skid steer like that little vemeer would be great. Site clearance roadside and estate work, a tractor with a crane on or crane trailer would have the edge.
-
I think with the A N T series there a lot less robust and forestry friendly that your old 6000 and 8000 series tractors. I guess they sell a lot more world wide into agriculture than forestry hence the push to be more field tractor. I think all that glass will be amazing for side arm work. I also think that the N series is better suited to forestry work over the T. If your spending what i guess will be over 100k on a new one (a forestry spec N is around 70k) you will be wanting a Kronos crane on it from the factory anyway.
-
If you want to do side arm flailing you needed 100hp minimum and that is for a fairly small one. For a good size one you want 130hp. Again for mulching you want 130hp for it to be any good. With flails the more power the better. Loader work you don't need a massive tractor. What you need is a tractor with good viability/stability around 130hp if you want the towing thing then a 6cylinder engine. a LL gearbox and reverse drive for mulching. If you want to do a lot of road work then a CVT will make a big difference on fuel. Your looking at spending for ~50k for all of that with about 5000 hours on it. Compromise along the way to bring the price down.
-
Did you manage to pop any of the little sap pockets and get it in your eye? That really stings.
-
British Woodland trees is from the 1940s and the rest from the late 60s early 70s. Forest planning was a gift the rest i've got for free in the local free bookshop.
-
A .2m3 grapple should be fine. Large enough to grab bigger wood but small enough to not make a nightmare of picking up <4" material. You could put a .25 on there if you like.
-
FMOC purpose built forwarder training
Brushcutter replied to elfinwood saws's topic in Training & education
What about Fozzy from Barony College? He did my purpose built harvester/forwarder course. -
The Chilterns AONB - Box Woodland Project They might want to come and transplant all the box for you? Or maybe harvest some of it if its big enough.
-
I'm taking to wearing good quality safety specs under the visor because of this. I've never had a problem but since this new generation of ultra fine mesh improved visors i find more crap gets under or through.
-
If Bolam has had a few he might take you out.
-
Lot of work going on over west Wycombe way at the moment. I like the video must have to be quite careful not to overload the winch though? Do you not cut a double product length off then winch the next bit up next to/on top then the same again. Then have a top behind the product which you break down to length. Save having to hand stack as much.
-
How steep is steep? You'd be suprised what a fearless operator can drive a tractor up and down in the right conditions. Especially in an alpine. Not a clue where to get a tracked mulcher from but you'll pay an arm and a leg for it.
-
Having used and abused the silky it would get my vote. If it was an occasional tool i'd be tempted by the other but if its for a big job or frequent use get Silky. I've tried many other brands of handsaw and they just aren't quite as good.
-
Meindl Woodwalkers worth a look.
-
Tracked mulcher Or an alpine and flail
-
Looks more like an 8 tonne trailer to me.
-
Can't beat putting the chain on the wrong way around. Or even better ask for a new chain which you've pre turned inside out so it can't go on the saw and watch the looks of confusion and frustration. Climbing ones tie there rope off at the bottom so they can't come down.
-
Its a pain but I've found a bit of swarfega rubbed into it works quite well at getting it off. Hand sanitizer works well as well, which is really just an alcohol gel. Either method rub it in and stick it in the washing machine with a bio detergent. You always get left with some. Also depends on the fabric too i've got a couple of Wool Power jumpers that are ruined as a days worth of larch resin has got in the fibers.
-
My Haix boots protector pros seem to last 1 year to 18 months before the things fall apart. Always the sole splitting too. I clean them polish them and wax them too which maxes it all the more annoying that they last so poorly. Especially since they don't get used for climbing. Trousers i get 2 years minimum from which isn't bad. I got 5 years from my first pair of Stretch Airs and they were ruined as i tore the outer material badly. Got some Gladiator 2s this time and i've had them 2 years now. Starting to look a little tatty around the bramble line but still good. If you have two sets of of PPE you can spread the wear out a bit. Nothing is better than after having a soaking wet day and know you have spare dry kit for the morning. Then look at the miserble sods in the van in the morning with yesterdays half dam boots and trousers on and just think to your self money well spent.
-
That's what I'd do. I'd also check to see if there is any damage to the bar like a bend or a pinched rail.
-
That is the tidiest David Brown i think i've ever seen. It has windows and everything.
-
Loading shovel. Although that only put you upto around 7 tonne.
-
What size block do you need? I've found that if you know what you want then just get it from the net. I've got shackles from the ratchet shop before and they sell blocks.
-
Sorry to hear that. Rod got done over not so long ago similar number of saws stolen.
