Brushcutter
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Everything posted by Brushcutter
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What sort of import taxes did you get stung for?
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I've had a 6.5 fransgard on a 75hp tractor before and that was fine. I can look in the manual tomorrow and tell you how to adjust it. If you search for 6.5 tonne fransgard winch i'm sure they'll be a post saying how to do it. I'm sure i've explained it a few times. I just cant remember how to do it full off the top of my head. I think its slack off the three nuts engange the winch tighten up let it off about 1/3 of a turn on the big nut. I think thats it but without it in front of me i can't remember it must be nearly a year since i did anything with one.
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Yes they are. Just make sure your sitting down when you get a price. They aint cheap but the build quality is fantastic. Oh get the tractor and then add to it. You can have what you want then. The newer N series tractors have really good capacity hydraulic pumps for crane speed goodness.
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Its an MS200!!!! They're amazing little saws.
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Your better off with a head with tracks rather an rollers for most stuff. If its very straight it flys through. Once you get to branches it gets messy. Case of opening the knives and crushing them with the rollers. Then running it through the knives fast. You get lots of little stubs but you'll be doing 5 tonne+ an hour.
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Lokomo 919 on ebay at the moment, also a nokka 400 bed processor. -
To be fair Scottish Spruce is very very different to Scandinavian Spruce. Branches are much bigger and its very fury. As for stumps that is just lazyness, double/triple cutting is hard so just take it a bit higher till the bar fits. Although its the same with hand cutters i can get a head lower to the ground than some hand cutter i know. Like everything in forestry its site site-spec and operator dependent
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Non brashed trees means the head cant actually get to the tree. Poorly brashed trees normally means that the measuring wheel in the head is going to take a pasting. They cost a fortune when they go wrong. Its cheaper to pay a brasher to go out in front of the machine to keep the harvester busy in clean timber than it is to battle with the head to get to the tree and break it. I've seen good harvesting site and bad harvesting sites. Normally an 8 wheel machine on band tracks running on the brash matt should make too much mess. Poor quality hand cutters who use the saw as a measuring stick and put trees any which may normally make more mess.
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It was grimm all day here in Herts so it must of been truly abysmal past the Watford Gap. Rained all day; enough rain for me to put waterproofs on. Was wet by Lunchtime drenched by home time. Nearly had to stop felling as the wind got up in the wrong direction. Anyway time to hang the trousers waterproof up by the fire.
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forestry trailer | eBay Would need a headboard and a new hitch.
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Try looking at the Strech Air Gladiators. I have a large pair and as a 36" waist they fit comfortably. The leg length is fine and i'm a 29" leg too. Maybe the XL will fit. Could always wear trousers and chainsaw chaps. You can easily take them off in the heat. The trousers are a very important part of that set up!
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Your door opens the wrong way and you dont seem to have any windows. Is that a valmet 900. The joys of hard wood forwarding huh.
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Bent my one. Sugi bars seem expensive but i've found on my 550 that its lasted 3x as long as the previous 13" bar on it.
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390 is good but on a 28" bar i do feel it lacks a little. I've only ever used 395s with 18" bar on in the woods and that was special. If i'm doing big hard woods i tend to use a 660 because i can run the 3' bar. Smaller big trees i use a 390 with a 28 but soon change down to 576/560. If you want a big saw then i'd lean towards the 395 if you want husky camp. However if its going to be a daily use big saw i'd go 390 as the vibes are less. In the woods though i'd go for a 576. 18" bar and chain on it trust me it flys through timber. Then change up to a 24" bar which it pulls really well. Put some full/semi skip on the 576 big bar for performance improvement.
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Nice stick to leave 2' of stump.
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Google image search hydraulic fluid injection and take a look at the pictures. It's absolutely horrid if you don't catch it in time. Something i make everyone who goes near anything hydraulic aware of as its easily done and worst case is fatal.
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About 10 years ago when i was training a lot of the soft wood we cut was given away or for a few quid a tonne. There wasn't a lot but it got hauled to down the road on a lorry none the less.
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I didn't look at the stand. Chilterns wood is just expensive I'd of thought there would be some milling butts in there but yes mainly firewood. I've seen softwoods for £40-60 a tonne too. The stuff that was £40 a tonne was all Silver Fir and something else i saw money in at half the price but not at that. Someone cut it though, although they did it with a harvester.
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£5 for that isn't bad going if your going to get some decent wood out. The dead hedging is going to be real hard work depending on how 'proper' it has to be done. I often find in neglected coppice that the trees are so drawn up you lack enough brash for good hedges for every stool. Standing prices...i've seen £50 a tonne standing for Ash down here in the Chilterns.
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£70+Vat roadside does seem expensive but i bet it will go. With the way standing prices are going its going to be the norm rather than the exception.
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Ah the only stand i didn't see. Despite those rather nice banners.
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Its a very good book. A must in every timber contracts book shelf.
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On the exhaust there is a little screw that holds a screen in the exhaust outlet. Take it out it just gums up with carbon deposits and saps power.
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Take the spark screen out. Keep the fins clean, keep the air filter clean. Oh and use the de comp button or you may break the starter.
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I'd love to see some Beech stress tested to see what it can do. Rapidly grown spruce can come out with some amazing strength.
