Brushcutter

Does it have a turntable?

When i was taught you took off anything that wasn't helpful. You would always leave stuff on the back you you have wood to play with. The ones on the side sometime left on sometime taken off no hard or fast rule. I remember struggling sometimes because you'd do pines that were cylinders and easy to make all the cuts line up. Then a birch with butresses all over the shop its very different and one of the situations where more butresses are better than taking them off. On my refresher course with a guy who does a lot of 30/31 courses. He said you must always put the face cut in first. Then you have established direction and have removed a 1/5 of the tree to check the condition of the timber. Thus you then have information available to you on what butress material you can remove. If its rotten you leave them if not take them off. (I started this an hour ago and went to phyiso and have lost my train of thought....) Problem is arb and forestry and two different things with a chainsaw overlap. CS31 is an attempt at forestry training. Where you may only have one saw with you and it has to do everything so taking the butresses off a plantation grown Larch isn't a massive thing. However a tree in someones garden when its a bit iffy and there is a 660 with a 3' bar on in the truck i think its best to leave them on. The other thing is about butresses from a training point of view that its a hell of a lot easier to fell a round tree than an odd shaped one. Some experience down the line it isn't but from picking up a saw on monday to felling a 15" birch with buttresses all over the shop is a big step. Hence why i guess most courses are in conifers. I bet everyone newbie even in a low stump forestry environment would fell where its round and then take the stump. Buttress fiber is also all over the shop as it's reactive and tears like anything even if you do any variation of sapwood/ears/feather cuts. I've never seen all of these pulls it all over the place results old school cutters talk about but i've torn a fair few butts due to leaving buttresses on. From my felling i'm 60/40 in the keep them on camp. If i'm doing high value i'll take them off but in that case the timber is normally fine. If the saw goes across then why take them off. People with 18" bars round up 13-15" trees really annoys me. It goes across just fell it. I prefer to get the tree on the ground then dress the butt when it's off the deck, saw stays sharp longer. Some thoughts on buttresses that was interrupted by dinner and physio.. the point i was once trying to make escaped me.....

Shout louder that helps:lol:

I use these Howard Leight Laser Lite 35dB Ear Plugs 200 Pairs | Ear Plugs | Screwfix.com

I see. Just seems the toes on approach seems to be the new taught thing.

Was it red? Because you may need to spit white wine over it to get the stain out.

8150 is a cracking tractor. However the new N series with the CVT are amazing. With the upgraded pump in the N series CVT you have 160lpm flow on the hydraulic. Load sensing too. For running a crane that is exactly what you want.

Out of interest are you an NPTC assessor?

Ah as the man who felled it i can tell you why..... I rigged it to be pulled at about 7m (or Caleb did). I had a look in at the timber in the limb that ripped out due to storm damage. No signs of rot in the wound. Also no fruiting bodies around the base. Hence taking off the toes only about 3"-4" off anyway just to get a working level. Been doing some really crappy trees recently that the toes have to stay on or there is literally no timber to play with,

You dont even need a notch it pushes a little spikey foot in. Its foot pushes into the ground and the top into the tree it reaches a point where its 'stuck'. Cut your desired felling cut. A danish works well as does a split level turn the leaver it telescopes out and pushes the tree over. Can do some impressive lean too.

My 660 does this same thing. Spits the spark plug out milling or long cuts. Plug is always tight and its done it from new.

Found a Clark catalog with this picture of it in. Maybe they have one in the back of a store room. Its a fairly old catalog though but worth a phone call.

The Tree Pusher | Log Handling | More Products... | LOGOSOL

Then your £300 tree jack will be money VERY well spent. Your back and high lift wedges will thank you for it. I used them in Finland they're very cool. There is on on the Logasol website but it doesn't look in the same league as the orion ones.

Clark Forest did them years ago. I really want one i nearly got one at the APF. They're big money for a just in case tool really. Their very popular over in Finland/Sweden maybe one of the guys there can find you one and post it over?

So much wetness. Who would have thought the Navara heater on full blast was such a good thing. I was only wet on 2 out of the 3 layers by the time i got home.

I've seen some home made extensions on other trailers that put a little bit of support further back to help the balance issue.

2 Bays of 3m Scotts pine. Was abit of a pain to load could of done with being a bit longer really but it doesn't line up so the 2nd longest will have to do. You really have to keep the weight at the front for it to wok. Hopefully in the 2nd pic you can see the hole that pin goes in to make the frame longer. Basically you pull a pin out undo some bolts and drive forward and it extends then put the pin in and do the bolts up.

He has first dibs on buying the Ash. The cherry i'll grade to see if any is worth milling up the rest will just get sold. Rod has all that stuff in on the other side of the road to move.

This week on the village green. Trailer full of nice Ash another trailer full of cherry bar a few sticks of oak. Then to finish the week off crane feeding the brash through the bandit.

This is the hard bit. I've been wanting to do NPTC FMO and Chainsaw but none of the local centres are interested.

So a 13" with an 8 or 9 pin sprocket then?

Done a lot of cherry as of late. I'll see how much isn't rotten in the middle and over 6". Its about 80 miles away though.

560 today with 13" sugi bar. It cut fast, very very fast. Felt like wasted power really.

Halls Lifting Gear I used in the past. The chain is really strong withstands a fair amount of grinding too. The padlocks are bomb proof. Use the chain all the kit to the side of the shipping container then padlock the chains end togehter. Downside is that it was very expensive.