Brushcutter

Big winch.

What about a double drum winch head mounted on the front linkage run off the hydraulics?

I'll check on the Krpan tomorrow to see if it has two pto stubs. It does have a wide and a narrow linkage setting. Its 9.5 tonne.

Nokian forest tires Forest tractor - Nokian Heavy Tyres They do take a lot of abuse but they cost a lot too. I have Michelin and they do take a fair amount of abuse. However if your running over a brashmatt a lot then you need the strength of the forest tyre.

A little overloaded?

Saw one on the A1(M) on Thursday. I think that you'll need to talk to VOSA for a proper answer. Then keep that letter in the cab at all times.

Good info above on front linkage winches. Remember that you'll need a 540/1000 shaft ie 21 splines tractor side 8 winch side. The do exist but they are costly. Other options are a one that runs off the hydraulics like this EV 300 Some front PTOs do go anti clockwise which makes it a hell of a lot easier to make it all work as you dont need a reverse gearbox in there too. I think Valtras do go anti on the front. Best option is to find a local person with a winch and put it on the front of your tractor. No winch suppliers i have found will bring you a demo unit so they send you to someone to see them working. Which can be miles away not useful when you want to see if it fits on the Linkage.

Valmet 860?

I'm sure some tractors have coded keys. I know that our Valtras have their own door lock keys. Down side if you stick one in the other enough times and turn they do eventually work. I think that a code system similar to diggers would be good for tractors. Although a padlock on the battery isolator switch is also very effective.

Tidy looking example. Is it still being finished it seems to be missing a grab bar on the front?

Pictures!!!!

If you dont drop it then its fine.

Its ready when its ready.

It can cost thousands and thousands and take years.

Yesterdays domestic felling.

They do a 26" bypass ones that do 38mm and a 21" anvil pair that does 35mm. None of they have the fancy ratchet or gearing that our ones do it seems.

I use Wilkinson Sword loppers. I've got a plastic pair with a 20"ish handle and they're very very good.

Even on a bobcat i think you may need to spend more. Tractor operator and a mulcher would be nearly twice that a day.

Knew i guy who did valley side harvesting in France with one. It was STEEP.

Poor PPE.

Does it have a turntable?

When i was taught you took off anything that wasn't helpful. You would always leave stuff on the back you you have wood to play with. The ones on the side sometime left on sometime taken off no hard or fast rule. I remember struggling sometimes because you'd do pines that were cylinders and easy to make all the cuts line up. Then a birch with butresses all over the shop its very different and one of the situations where more butresses are better than taking them off. On my refresher course with a guy who does a lot of 30/31 courses. He said you must always put the face cut in first. Then you have established direction and have removed a 1/5 of the tree to check the condition of the timber. Thus you then have information available to you on what butress material you can remove. If its rotten you leave them if not take them off. (I started this an hour ago and went to phyiso and have lost my train of thought....) Problem is arb and forestry and two different things with a chainsaw overlap. CS31 is an attempt at forestry training. Where you may only have one saw with you and it has to do everything so taking the butresses off a plantation grown Larch isn't a massive thing. However a tree in someones garden when its a bit iffy and there is a 660 with a 3' bar on in the truck i think its best to leave them on. The other thing is about butresses from a training point of view that its a hell of a lot easier to fell a round tree than an odd shaped one. Some experience down the line it isn't but from picking up a saw on monday to felling a 15" birch with buttresses all over the shop is a big step. Hence why i guess most courses are in conifers. I bet everyone newbie even in a low stump forestry environment would fell where its round and then take the stump. Buttress fiber is also all over the shop as it's reactive and tears like anything even if you do any variation of sapwood/ears/feather cuts. I've never seen all of these pulls it all over the place results old school cutters talk about but i've torn a fair few butts due to leaving buttresses on. From my felling i'm 60/40 in the keep them on camp. If i'm doing high value i'll take them off but in that case the timber is normally fine. If the saw goes across then why take them off. People with 18" bars round up 13-15" trees really annoys me. It goes across just fell it. I prefer to get the tree on the ground then dress the butt when it's off the deck, saw stays sharp longer. Some thoughts on buttresses that was interrupted by dinner and physio.. the point i was once trying to make escaped me.....

Shout louder that helps:lol:

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I see. Just seems the toes on approach seems to be the new taught thing.