Brushcutter

Finally i'm cool.

I'd like to forward on some slopes. Maybe even drive an 8wd ergo up some welsh valley with the stupid leveling seat trying to make it 'better'. I've felled some stuff on steep slopes its bad for the knees.

Welcome to the home counties. I'd like to do more slope work.

Look at Echo Echo Power Pruner Accessories they have some nice extra hedge cutting accessories. If you do a lot then a pole pruner is money well spent but for the odd bit then a good set of poles with a saw /lopper is the best.

More Valmet goodness.

I've always been told by 2 or 3 NPTC people that reverse cutting on the main road wasn't above board. Your right though could be very useful although i think a good come forward would remove the need. Or one of the 5' square Kronos mowers to go on the crane 360 degree mower goodness.

Get one of those easy lift harnesses. The Echo pruner does feel heavy (as does most Echo stuff) but spread the load with a harness it makes a hard job a hell of a lot easier.

You can't reverse drive on the road though so it won't be all that. Come forward flail is what you want or a front linkage one. The gear set up in valtra is great for cutting with i too find the massy too fast or too slow for cutting.

Echo. Well built and can have extra sections added to increase its length not a fan of the STIHL ones.

Should of got a Dolmar or a 550. Them 560s are nothing but trouble:001_tongue: On a more helpful note sound like something is up in on the flywheel side. Just put it back in the box and send it back. I'd also say you want a new one not that one fixed. If its giving trouble out the box it will be nothing but trouble in the future.

Depends on where you are.

How do you find the Valtras for hedge cutting? I've used an A series for it and it wasn't great as the visability was poor due to the cab pillars always being in the way.

Its tannins running out.

Chat to your insurance company would be my first step as i bet there is a lot of insurance issues. I also expect there is some sort of plant hire scheme thing too. Will you need to see a CoC before you can hire it to them. PUWER records (will you need independent ones too?) Insurance details for the client your hiring it too for hired in plant. Data protection Cost of keeping spares Do you pick it up/take it away or do they? What size machines your stand 5-6" machines/micro or 10" plus or a range. If you buy yourself a chipper how much hire time does it have to have to pay its keep? Nothing worse than having 30k worth of kit costing you yard/workshop space and insurance to keep and only going out once a week. There is a lot to think about these are just off the top of my head. There must be money in it or nobody would bother. Personally I'd not hire my chipper to anybody without an operator firstly so a load of rakings doesn't go through it at the end of the day. Even with people you know it does happen. I've seen the excuse its only a hire/lease/loan thrown around so much its depressing.

Welcome forestry and domestic tree work are very different. To do domestic tree work you will need: Good attitude Good time keeping Amazing raking and leaf blower skills. B+E driving license (even better C+E) First aid ticket CS 30+31 (or what ever they're called now) basically chainsaw & small felling Chipper cert. CS 38+39 Climbing rescue and saw in a tree Those as a minimum really as a foot in the door. Really to get good you'll need to work with a few people before setting off on your own for a few years to learn the ropes. For the forestry side of things its the same but there are more machine tickets to get. It's a lot of working away and expect to make bigger losses at the beginning than doing your own tree surgery. Oh and insurance as well, you won't need it for working with others but if you run your own jobs you will. Sorry if it sounds off putting but its my 2p worth.

Hi i think skip tooth .325 only comes in narrow kerf. Also no CE mark on the skip chain so it could be a pain if you ever have an accident with one. It would work i guess it would be like using an 18" bar cutting wise running the skip tooth. Would be very nose heavy with a 20" on there. Personally 15" max for a 550 13" is the ideal and a 18" on the 560.

13" Sugi light weight.

There is a theromostat in the 261 that keeps the carb heating off until it gets to -10 apparently.

Only ever had a play with a 3 tonne Igland it was very well made but didn't really do anything special. I did once get a quote for a 2x9 tonne Igland and that was 14k. Just to throw another contender in the ring Krpan. Not used a double but i have the used the 8 and 9.5 tonne models. Very well built and user friendly. Lots of space in the chain boxes (i have 6 in there, 3 each side). They pull like a train. Wire rope quality is the best i've ever seen. Had cables start to hedge hog in a few weeks but this is as good as new after a year. Folding butt plate options mean that you can use it above shallow services and on sensitive archeological sites. Also keeps quite a lot of the timber off the deck if you have to skid high value stuff. Downside is their smallest is 8 tonne so bigger than you wanted. However you'll be getting 6 tonne of pull a lot sooner than you will with the Iglands (unless your always working full cable length,) With the radio remote get the best you can afford. I think ours way a grand for the whole kit. Having used it for a year now i wish i'd got the servo for the throttle linkage so i could rev the tractor increasing line speed from afar. Forestry Winches KRPAN

Does anybody know the depth of the rails on a brand new Sugi bar? Just wondering how much my one has worn down from filing over 11 months.

I wouldn't buy a saw without heated handles now. I think its around 50 quid to have them and maybe 200g on the saw. When you dont need them you can turn them off. When its raining or cold in the mornings they keep the hands warm. First time i've had mine on in a while this week but it the wet and the cold they're worth 50 quid. Theory is that they improve circulation because the warmth keeps the blood flowing near the top of the skin thus reducing the risk of white finger. I don't have heated handles on my 660 but i wish i did. Didn't think i'd use it enough but i was wrong. Not sure about the benefits for arb as the trigger time is less than forestry but in the latter it makes a difference. If your worried about vibes though ringing a stem up with a 661 is more than likely a two person job anyway with vibe exposure.

I've asked several places and either got an outright "No we dont want the hassle" or Please provide us with insurance details, when where etc. I just did it in the local council wood one evening just going up about 20' or so practicing may years ago. Local busy body phoned the police. He didn't see a problem with it but never went back afterwards.

I really want to eat the Twix that is in the truck. However that involves going to the truck and also finding said Twix in the truck under all the stuff in there. Its also cold and raining. Guess i don't want the Twix that much...

My Fender Jazz. Its a Mexican one but its lovely to play. I also have a 20th anniversary Squire P bass which is as nice as some American P i've played. Many years ago i played a American deluxe 5 string jazz which was amazing in an aged cherry burst it was a thing of beauty. To this day i regret not buying it.

I've thought of buying one once or twice had a good look over one once. They go for around 10k for a tidy example. The 1000 and the 1500 are the ones to go for as they're more powerful than the 800. Spares fairly easy to come by from your unimog dealer. A lot go for export to Germany where they lap them up. The WF Trac is the new version however they're mega money. They're always a little agricultural inside and very 80s tractor generally. Every time i see one i think about it. They make good skidders. However every time i think about it i think for twice the price i can have a valmet that willl do more.