PeteB
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Everything posted by PeteB
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It has always been said that Redwood do a lot telesales, even if you decline, they will keep on trying.....
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Rob Forrestor at Andoversford has a handful of 'pickers. Give a chance of the work - 07966 665771
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Big ask, but email Tunnisen or Salaen direct or try PSD, part of Gibson at Colne.
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STOLEN GREENMECH ARBTRACK 190 WOOD CHIPPER
PeteB replied to treestumpremoval's topic in Stolen Equipment
I put this on to the GreenMech Owners Facebook page and sent a round Robin email to our dealers too. Good luck. -
If Jensen won't come to the table, plate it and move on!
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Just that the VW thing is likely to be very expensive agin an off the shelf machine key. I get where you are coming from ref supporting a local economy though. Something which I will look to do on a personal level too.
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Honestly? They have used VW ignition barrels? Have you had it from new? No chance anyone else modified it?
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Before doing anything, try an diagnose the problem. Is the speed the same in reverse? Can you hear the oil squealing through the system? Is the oil getting right hot? Is the oil milky?
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Five years sounds about right for the batch of chassis that broke.
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Back a while, pushing a trailer unit like the one shown, was an easy way of making a towed device compliant in Europe. We did load like this for France. Probably still got a few in the weeds out the back of the GreenMech factory too!
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There is no mention of age? If it is fairly recent unit of say 7 years or so, I'd ask for factory and dealership records of similar failures. It may have been a common experience and as such, I'd be asking for som assistance?
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Sorry, Dig Bits. There are any number of suppliers and as Mike says, there is bound to be a maker's mark.
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Try dig bite or some such, they might be able to help. A decent hydraulic supplier would be able to once you give him the serial number, make and model. Otherwise, give T H White a ring as the current importer!
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Matty, while you got the tension of the pulleys, check the condition of the rotor bearings with a lever, and also have a feel of the bottom support bearing too. The engine should sit fully on the belts and the bolt free to allow the engine to sag a bit. New belts ved in and stretch a tad, if the engine sits on the bolt heads, the belts are in effect, loose.
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Sounds like the engine sits on a pad,,hinged up by the radiator. Support the back of the 3ngine with a jack, remove that bolt circled red and the mesh guard. Lift up the back of the engine enough to remove the old belts, fit the new four and lower the engine. Refit the cover and bolt and all should be good! Sorry, yes, you will need to remove the hydraulic pump then replace in the same spot exactly!
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Nothing in the manual? A call to Overland m8ght be unordered otherwise!
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If you wanted to chip 4" and were a tad brave! It can rattle the fingers on some stuff! To be fair, most things have a spot in the market but I would rather support a closer economy than prop up one from further afield! Except the Peruzzo as they did copy ours while smooching us into believing they were a good partner! Tbh, I see all these wannabees as financially a drain, worthless as a trade in/leg up to professional machines. As a homeowner, I would rather rent a good one than buy a bad one!
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Search on eBay or Facebook marketplace and get something built in Europe, preferably in England, even better from Warwickshire!
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As an extention to this and it has featured before.... Some years back (1990?) I got a Bedford MK4x4 from Shepshed Military Auctions, we used it and the mid mounted winch for several site jobs as the Matador was long in the tooth. The grand plan was to put a sub-chassis on it, reasonable crane and use it for pole erection, winching, loading etc. It was a bit of a 'vanity purchase' as we liked kit. We I went to work for GreenMech, the paperwork was 'lost' as it was parked at my Ag Engineers spot with the project started. It is still there now. It is possible to spot it on Google Earth too! That must be a record for kit that has been forgotten!
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Two inch of slush in North Notts! Grim, wet and cold!
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I used my sons OBD2 plug in Bluetooth with the Torque app on my phone but it only came up with fault code U0001 after several attempts. They are cheap but don't do much at all tbh.
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The battery was fitted about 18 month ago and I did wonder - it is at 12.8v at rest. I'm think of a wiring issue somewhere, a ground, bad connecting plug, earth intermittency etc. Hate bloody electrics when they go wrong! Foxwell was recommended but a dedicated D4 unit - would that also do things like tell me which/why the parking sensor has stopped working etc? or is that a bumper off and test each sensor for faults?
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Undiagnosed electrical issues. Wouldn't start on the key last week, nothing,zilch, nadder. Put the battery on charge and did an ECU hard reset and it started, but said Gearbox Fault, then suspension fault, and no not starting again. Smell of hot wires in the engine bay too. Had an alternator last year which was a bugger to fit and I did one of the rockers too. With all these warning coming on (inc EBD, HDC and just about everything) it is a badelectrical connection. Very basic OBD reader just said U0001 cambus link issue.....
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I'm after a fault code reader for my own Discovery 4, the damn thing is in need of some interpretation! Anyone use a fault code ready to help with diagnosis? Anyone recommend anything? They seem to be priced from £150 to £500, while I ain't afraid to spend the dosh, but is an expensive thing right? I would sell it once the car goes so get something back from the job. Or keep it if I get a later model
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Not necessarily. TW would have done a lot of testing to get the best performance within a few parameters. If you have two blades, it is having two impacts per rotation, and the rotor would slow down quicker given the HP available. With regards to the pack of straws in a big bundle, a disc slices through the bundle at the same angle. With a drum, as it rotates, the blades would/could start to strike pushing up the grain, then transition through the vertical and end up towards the horizontal again, which is trying to pull the material further in - ready for the next blade to do it's job.
