PeteB

Trouble us, them sorts don't think it applies to them!

Crankcase breather needs a wipe through too I would think.

My workshop is primarily for a couple of cars, a grey Ferguson and a couple of mowers. For fun and therapy only!

Looks good enough to have in any workshop. I'm not a fan of the water based degreasing stuff. It went smelly and mouldy in my old washer. What stuff do you use?

I do this with the shrubs in my back garden, big standard flymo collector, all hedge an shrub pruning and now them up! Lavender, Thyme and the horrible lemon mint eta. Then it goes in council green waste bin! Tidy enough for me.....

Are you implying that people who buy other makes aren't intelligent? However, I'm glad that you are getting some benefit from the hard work and development pains that us manufacturers go through.

Good advice. We don't do spares anymore but look out for the Predator importer but I think they only have the Multitip now. I had a few clients back in the day who re-drilled the head to accept Rayco, Vermeer or whatever tips. After all, it is only geometry, concise measurements and quality engineering.

A cold weld is basically where a weld has failed or come 'unstuck' due to incorrect heat in the weld that hasn't allowed the molten components of the steels to become one! It may look okay and indeed, may last. In a critical job, the weld may be xrayed or sprayed with chemicals to detect for faulty welds. In this instance, something caused a 3mm plate to become detached and then jam and there was signs of corrosion were two plates meet and that could have been cold weld. So will put it right under our "no quibble" warranty.

Further my earlier post - I haven't sent a PM to Si, he has had discussions with his supplying dealer and GreenMech so there is nothing that I can add other than my best wishes. The damage was assessed earlier today and it may appear that a cold weld allowed a 3mm piece of sheet steel to come adrift and snag on the inner wall of the chip chamber. A dramatic failure then occurred but was, by and large, contained within the structure. After consulting with Si, we have agreed that under our 'no quibble' warranty, we will take this back into the factory and it will be rebuilt with a new chip chamber fabrication, flywheel, shear bars and anything else that has suffered as a result. Effectively, Si will have a new chipper assembly to replace his. A loan unit was offered but is not needed at the moment. We would hope to effect the repair in a short period of time and can only thank Global Sales for working with us and to Simon and his team in their forbearance and understanding.

Fuel delivery? Start with the cheap things like filters etc. Don't worry over much on the seal around the cap as there needs to be a way for air to get into the tanknwhile fuel is pulled out!

I think I heard Jason talking to someone else about this. I'll check and pm you tomorrow.

If it isn't driving well, I would suspect that a spool isn't lining up and full oil flow isn't being achieved. Check the valve end caps and lever movement to check what is happening there. If the fingers are coming loose, run a grinder over the bed surface of the holder so that you are clamping down on the bar and not to the wheel.

All these things have been considered in the past. But from a manufacturing point of view, the cost/benefit/numbers ratio is considered and that kills many projects. In the 80's, I asked JCB if they would consider getting their apprenticeship team to design and build a chipper for me (GreenMech didn't exist and TW were in their infancy possibly) as I wanted British built rather than all the imported stuff. They hinted that they might accept the challenge but only if sales exceeded 3000 pa. Killed it!!! If a project is run by accountants then, more often than not, it goes nowhere.

I work for GreenMech! Go to the GreenMech webpage and there is a video of how to do it.

There are three yellow units going through with black decals which I thought was quite attractive.

I passed your truck the other day Mat! Hi Gear at Freemans Common in Leicester have a new GreenMech on their fleet for future reference.

I guess it has been up a few times from your reaction?

List price on a new one is currently £4,640 plus vat, so yes, I think £5k is about right. And welcome to the family if you go ahead. You have it spot on with your need, the TW (or similar sized tow behind) cannot be pushed around to the side of the house and used in the back garden easily yet a CS100 can.

I don't know if this has been put up before. I can remember my Uncle David singing this as he rattled off a load one day back in the ealry 70's when I was a kid. Then I found a ancient copy of Forestry and British Timber and it was in there. Logs to Burn. Beechwood fires burn bright and clear, Hornbeam blazes too, If the logs are kept for a year, to season through and through Chorus: Logs to burn, logs to burn, Logs to save the coal a turn, Here’s a word to make you wise’ When you hear the woodsman cry. Oaken logs will warm you well, if they’re old and dry, Larch logs of pinewood smell, but the sparks will fly. Chorus: Pine is good and so is Yew for warmth through wintery days. The Poplar and Willow too, they take too long to blaze. Chorus: Birch logs will burn too fast, Alder scarce at all, Chestnut logs are good to last, cut them in the fall. Chorus: Holly logs will burn like wax – you should burn them green – Elm logs like smouldering flax, with no flames with them are seen. Chorus: Pear logs and Apple logs, they will scent your room, Cherry logs, across the dogs, they smell like flowers in bloom. Chorus: Ash logs, so smooth and grey, burn them green or old, Buy up all that come your way – they’re worth their weight in gold. (Traditional English)

Double time!?! I'll give the good recipe for thin soup, same as we all Get!!!?

Jase, you sad get helping folk while off on holiday!

While grovelling underneath, change some oils and check the bushes in the suspension. Check also that the leaf springs are good and shockers dry.

Try talking to the importer, PSD aka Gibson's at Colne. They should be able to help with your problem. Do they work in reverse but not feed in? Is the no stress divide okay? Are you getting full throttle? Is it a mechanical link between bar and valve or electronic?

I had to collect a length of plastic downpipe so I tie wrapped it to the side of the car on the door handles - it looked like a rocket launcher!

Start with the cheap things, battery connections, earth straps, then start checking the wiring?.....loose fuses, duff plugs etc. It does sound like an electrickery issue.