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J Holtby

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  1. Making a jig up, anyone know what radius is the hollow grind on tw150 blades?
  2. Std mx200 rad but recored, doesn't have the surround on in pic They're mental money 🤑
  3. Yeah, the little 3 cyl still but with a turbo, original engine was well cooked and couldn't find a good 2nd hand d1105 but there were loads of d1105t about so thought id try it Engine wiring simple enough, it's the antistress that worries me
  4. Used to deal with them alot and always found to be helpful, will buzz next week to persue
  5. Replacing the standard d1105 with d1105t at the moment, and just wondering if this has been done before? I am only doing it as it seemed to make sense at the time 🤣 After fabrication ideas on air filter and exhaust etc Also the sandblaster got carried away and rinsed the wiring for antistress so need to renew all that. Does anyone have a wiring diagram? Contacted Overland a few times over the last year and no reply Cheers Joe
  6. Not sure I'd have space for double cardan, be just joints no shaft lol
  7. Hola, got a new bus and the linkage arms are alot shorter than before When putting the igland on her I've cut down the shaft to fit but I can't help but slightly wince at the shaft angles Does anyone one else do anything to mitigate this? Offset the winch on the linkage arms when onsite etc? I've done a fair bit of searching online and can't find any obvious examples of this Also had to cut away most of the pto guarding for clearance where it fouls the drum casing, anyone got any ideas to help this? Cheers
  8. It steadily gets worse along the length Panther looks very solid, although the same fundamental design I'm thinking I might knock up a basic purpose built mill just for deep/first cuts, with triangulated bar supports rather than just unsupported legs
  9. Rough Hewn, yes, granberg chain, which Ive found great, but hearing good things about the hyperskip stuff, anyone know what its like? Big J - what do you use now? bandsaw? some of the pieces Ive milled (forks/crowns of trees etc) are over 6ft, what bandsaws are out there that could handle that? Trigger - it took about 15 mins to do that first cut, have to say the 880 is great, but wouldnt know any better! CDMR - Yes, def more of a problem on the deeper cuts, almost unnoticable on 4" cuts, then progressively more so, a tensioning system ontop ala the old school handsaws is a interesting one, but think the main problem is 3 dimensional rather than just a tensioning issue Our standard practice is to get the saw started and engine/bar/chain nice and hot. Then retension chain, loosen end bar clamp to let the bar 'grow' into place, and we make sure its flat as can be when nipping up, but its whats happening in the kerf that I believe to be the issue Custom made mill for big stuff might be the answer and just use the Alaskan for smaller/lighter jobs?
  10. Been having a few issues with the Alaskan mill, and I know I'm pushing it to its limits with a 84" bar, but wondering if anyone has been through this and has a better work around than I do! Had a search through the forums already but as its a bit of a complex issue, not really hit on a similar issue, if its been discussed before, apologies In short, the bar is, for want of a better description, 'sagging' or 'bowing'under cutting, and cutting a minor cup/trough into the wood. I have a feeling its simply flex in the Alaskans legs - as I push the frame along the top, there is resistance at the bar, the legs flex back slightly, pitching the bar down slightly, cutting down into the wood, and the easiest way the mill can accommodate the slight increase in thickness is the bar slowly growing a 'bow' along the woods length To get around this, with 2 people we can evenly push both at frame and bar height, but when cutting solo its a real issue, sometimes the mill totally seizes and binds in the log (this has only happened a couple of times but a huge pain in the ass when it does!) I've got a good router sled set up, so flattening the slabs isn't an issue, but reducing the error at the milling stage would be something Id love to improve upon Cheers for any input, lashed up some pictures, hopefully the one with the level across will illustrate the issue Joe
  11. Some advice please guys, what grab would suit a palfinger pk7000 (can lift a ton out to 6.5m and about 3.5 close in) Most of the big bit we will load with the tractor, but would be nice to to limit ourselves on the tipper. Thanks in advance
  12. Cheers guys, will look for that my hgv thread now
  13. Done a search and struggling to choose what to go for Had heart set on a 2006 LF 45 with pal finger, but it was sold last sat and now searching again On the Isle of Man, and have ruled out canter/Isuzu/cabstar due to the agro of getting parts here So still leaning toward Daf lf45, merc, Iveco or MAN A local truck mechanic said if possible get an older (pre 2002??) lf45 as they have don't have the euro 4 common rail and are more reliable and cheaper to maintain. Any merit in this? I have no reason to not like the Iveco's, but just don't, unless someone can persuade me otherwise? So Mercs and MAN? Any advice? Budget up to 12K for right truck, and would prefer to get something as new as possible, but if older ones are more reliable, that gets my vote. Thoughts? Thanks in advance
  14. Over here there seems to be lots of the old ceramic insulators from when leccy was ran through the trees, ive unfortunately hit many of them. On a local estate here, a beech had totally encapsulated a wrought iron tree guard, after many chains, its 5ft stump is still on site awaiting the jcb
  15. What sort of price per milled ft3 are we talking these days for elm?

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