PeteB

Take 14 year old back to the main dealer? Cheaper to scrap the door and fleabay another I would have thought!

Ford Focus door won't unlock with the remote or key, and from the inside, the handle doesn't unlock or even open the door! I tried the connection to the unit against the wheelarch by the accelerater with no apparent joy and tried the trick with the key in the ignition going on\off four times etc to no avail.... I've wrecked the door card getting in to see if there is a cable issue but the lever appears to have correct travel but it still appears to be securely locked! Anyone got a clue or got connections with the motor trade who might give advice as to the next plan? As far as I can see, the next plan involves a trip to a breaker's for a door after cutting a hole in the skin and attacking the lock mechanism! I would have thought that a "fail to safe" system would have been in place to enable anyone in the car to get out in the event of..........cannot suss it out!

I got a Dyson ten years ago and apart from a couple of things, it has served me well. Wash and dry the filters every 6 months and it is sound! Don't like the Henry that the GM office has - old fashioned paper bag in the housing!!! Dyson service has, it has to be said, impressed me. I got my now ex wife one some 20 years ago, a three years old, it played up, so she called them out. They repaired the fault, changed a couple of other components including the flexy hose for a very, very modest sum! Top marks....

Are you hinting at something that may becind available or wishful thinking Stuart?

Good luck with the sale, sounds like you had a bum steer on some work and need a break. Wouldn't the outfit you got it off help out?

A 20 year old chipper....... Does it comply? Does it function 100%? What are your expectations?

The Cougar is marketed by PSD, a spin off of the Gibsons Garden Machinery thing in Lancashire. Eric Hunter was the name of the firm that was the importer but they switched the light off when Jez Smothers left. Being a French owned company, you did get put through to France or Germany if you needed TS bits.

As a kid at boarding school we had run errands for the 6th form, I got sent for a pint of pigeon's milk.

It usually comes this way! Thing of the recent high winds......

For some of the bigger exhibitors please bear in mind that a show is to sell stuff at and make some good contacts - a lot of marketing types and enthusiastic organisers can easily forget that. September can be a busy time with Saltex, Weald Woodfair, APF and a variety of other things going on too. If it is piggy-backed onto a sheepdog trial - then most of the people will be to watch the dogs, be entertained and watch the things happen. Even if you are a chair bodger or candle stick turner, the event is for you to sell stuff and not be free entertainment. I hope and wish that you do well - local stuff is ace for the community and hard work! Usually organised by a hard working knot of people who get no credit but all the blame if it bombs....

Where are you based? are you willing to travel - I know where some are!

The pivot end of the arm is an oilite bush and the roller has a long shaft going through two bearings. I doubt it is a nearing issue, the shaft would show evidence if they were poor. I would try Dan's motor swap, but replicating the test will be hard. Pound to a penny, the pressure is low.

Aiden, the valve is in the spool block by the battery, I'm pretty sure it is on the same side as that control lever with the bungy. It is a threaded grub screw which takes a 5mm Allen key in the end (guessed size) which is locked off with an M8 nut (13mm spanner). The body of the valve is hexagonal, probably M12 (19mm spanner) and maybe 30mm long. For your info, you adjust the pressure setting by undoing the locknut and tightening (or slackening) the Allen key until the desired pressure is reached. Then lock it off. A pressure gauge and tap is put in the line usually before the top motor and momentarily dead end it with the tap, noting what the gauge goes to, then adjusting until 3000psi is reached. If the pressure is down, one indeed may stop and the other work. The top roller shaft is supported in two bearings which share a grease nipple - you would have wear marks in the shaft where the bearings sit and you would defo see if they were failing. Hope this helps....

When you say 150, do you mean current model or previous model and which engine?

I would also consider checking the pressure relief valve pressure. This should as close to 3000psi on that model. If it blows at, say, 2000psi, then that could stall the rollers. Talk to your local dealer or hydraulics people, them have a set up that will allow you to take it out have them set it at their premises rather than taking the whole machine to them.

Anyone tried the Kanga?

What do you need to know?

I like this.....

All bits for the 180 can be had from GreenMech. If it is a 180 with 4 cylinder engine then it may be common with the 220 range which is still in production - therefore parts may be on the shelf! Filter housing is from the suction side and if it isn't leaking, hold it up with a couple of ties for now.

[quote name=prolinep;1193145 also wheres best place to purchase at the mo' date=' like best price? cheers[/quote] That comment is one that has some weight behind it. Why not buy it off of your local dealer? No matter the make, stay faithful to your local supplier and he will stay faithful to you. Buy it elsewhere then take it back to him and you may find that he is less amenable. Why would he help you when you haven't helped him? Let's change this around, a local personage always gets you to sort his trees when in a rush. One day, you pass by and there is another outfit in doing a spicy takedown. Next week he needs another rush job doing and you're kind of busy. Do you tell him to join the queue or shift things about as he is an honest and faithful customer? In all things, support local businesses, when they are gone because everyone went out of the county, don't wings and moan about HAVING to go out the county!

I had the chance to look into a Schieslings innards and was singularly unimpressed! A big machine by any standards but village blacksmith engineering. Massive flywheel with the "whisper cut" or "Z" blade system which was in for some preparation..... Massive "plumbers block" style bearings, one of which had had the one mounting lug removed and they used the cap bolt to assist in holding it down! Wrong thing to do....Two blades bust and a pillow bent. The no stress device was busted too. Very, very simply made and poorly contrived but at over twice the price of anything else!!! Not worth the dosh imo. Sorry, but where does all that money go, not into design, parts, fabrication or finish.....

Kev, try Keith Mills, he has the ear of the Bathurst Estate and has a lot of local knowledge, he may be able to assist. 01793 771742

Don't cut the red wire!

Call in at Browns hire department in Leighton Buzzard and see if you can beg one off of Andy Lathwell or Nigel Corkett would be my bet. Go to George Browns Implements web site for the numbers. They even be able to sell one from one of their depots. If not, try Matt Textor at Whites in Reading.

What he said.....