Pete Mctree
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Everything posted by Pete Mctree
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That's it. Not pretty but works
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No point filming it as the spray of shite from his rear end would obscure the lens
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Cool, bet you could save a load of cash by NOT buying 5 ton rachet straps from Halfords
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Hard to explain a cut on the t'internet without pics. ( can't find any sorry) 2 lateral cuts a 1/3rd deep leaving a strip of wood which is then severed from the top, releasing the tension in the stem. I will pm a couple of people for a diagram or you can google it. Not conventional, but the barbers chair is a result of a massive build-up of pressure behind the hinge. So transfering that tension to a strip at 90deg to the natural lean means that there will be less wood to sever avoiding it. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAArgh. Told you I need pics to explain it
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If need be (for confidence), wrap the stem with some chain (or rope if you don't have any). Then as has been said, make some careful but purposefull cuts & release with a dog tooth.
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Same as. No directional control but much, much safer:thumbup1:
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Now this IS nuts
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Wow, I'd do that just for the view!
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Nice tree. I remember there being plenty like that around here as a kid.
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looks like a 3/4 - they are available for the 440/460 as a part for the rescue saw. I would recommend the larger side plate if you choose to go down that route, as when flipped on it's side your fingers are a little close to the running chain for some, & if your not concentrating............
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You considered buying a Wraptor ascender, for saving your body Reg? They make it effortless (& fun)
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Good stuff. Couple of tips I will give for the groundies is handling rope pre/during lowering. Always keep your arms straight (snapping your elbows straight when you get a shock load is less than pleasant. Plus you WILL drop the rope if it's a decent load) When letting a load run, as the load is introduced onto the line, if room allows, walk towards the tree/friction device. This will reduce the shock load upon yourself & the system
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Has that 201 been re-tuned by a dealer (not saying you can't) Reg. I know of 2 that have been miraculously transformed with a re-tune. They seem to set the really rich whilst breaking them in - which also seems to take ages. Get it ported get on with it
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Yes, that's what I liked about the set-up.
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Your a top topper Reg. Some nice rigging in there, I like your double line set-up on the multiple trees. Worked over quite a distance by the look of things.
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With an 18mm line it's not just the cost of the pulley, you have to factor in a sling to attach it to the tree, a friction device & something to attach that to the tree. All of which have to be rated to be used with such a large rope - i.e. not cheap!
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I guess this is why Stihl fit a high output oiler to there MS660 for the US market. (It is available here in the UK as a part if anyone thinks they need it)
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Tell them how to do it then.... Basics are important
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They last me about 2 years max as opposed to meindls or hiax which don't do a year. Ruined a pair of airstreams in 8 months - worn out under the balls of my feet with dragging
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Slow down. Start at the beginning - a rope. Natural crotch then natural crotch with a turn. Then 1/2 hitch on a stem. These basics set the core knowledge & application for the modern stuff. This thread is a great opportunity to demonstrate how simple it can be to understand it all
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A very good & durable boot. They are a little stiff to start with but are better when broken in. Light enough to wear all day yet stiff enough for spikes
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Nice job
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TITS - tie in twice stupid
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I use on for dismantling. Much safer than a rope ( if you don't believe me then try attacking a rope lanyard with a silky nevermind a saw) & makes working up & down the stem easier - easy flip on smaller & mid diameter stem
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As been said before, 2 handed signals are limiting. An example would be a groundie giving the OK signal whilst holding onto a tensioned line. Not as practical as a thumbs up ?
