Today's Posts

I've worn the carbon ones before and they are impressively light. You do stand on them though so how much they weigh is fairly negligible in my opinion

Daily general edc. Often a spare lighter as the zippo is the unreliable enemy of the nicotine afflicted. Little key ring torch with an impressive full beam and equally impressively short battery life at full beam. Annoyingly lots of different modes to cycle through (including a blue and red flashing emergency strobe for overtaking middle lane hoggers) but i just hold down the button for full beam and release to turn off.

Most cranes struggle slewing with a load. Bring it in closer, and use the rotate to get it moving in the right direction before you start slewing.

Its a pearlescent powder mixed with resin the i get a tooth pick and swirls it about.

There is nothing specific about this in legislation, and I am not aware of any case law. The LPA has 2 roles. It has to decide if the trees are important enough to be protected, this can be relevant to trees on and off site. If important they should be retained and protected. BS5837 etc blah blah. What is questionable is whether it should be protecting what amounts to encroachment and possible common law nuisance. It also has to decide whether the CA tree is so important for the amenity of the area that it should be TPOd. The reason is that generally a planning application replaces the need for a separate CA notification or TPO application. So it could TPO the tree and prevent any development that would harm it. This could exceed the RPA, which is really just a temporary made up thing that only preserves about 1/4 of the roots. Remember, CAs don't imply the trees are important. It's jsut a precaution to allow the LPA to decide if they are in the context of any threat to their remvoal or harm.

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As GarethM has said, push the lever to the full return position and the lever will remain in that position retract fully and stop, push it part way and when its at the required distance back, let go of the lever and it will stop wherever it is currently. this feature would suit your style of splitting varying lengths

There does seem to be very few posts in the tree work sections now ....although it was quite common to argue about which chainsaws were the best ...but now it is undoubtedly STIHL there is little to discuss / argue about !!😁

I have one which I use for pressure / vac testing, not had any issues with it as yet, done 100's of tests, not aware of a shrader valve in them as they flow in both directions or am I missing something?

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To think this guy actually believes new outlets are the sources and not reporting on what the source reveal. This is the problem on the left when they have room temperature IQ drones blindly swallowing everything they read.

I've a nice echo cs370 for sale 15"

Was also in Circus World with John Wayne

Well it appears you aren't what's his face off the Hood!

have just gone the pro coms, but concerned where the wire goes? does it get in the way ?

Morning, frost here and blue skys. Tough day on the pinch and spade yesterday and a long 1 tomorrow so having an easy day today. Think I’ll go a wee drive in the tractor and walk the dog.

Report back when I've done a few with it. Did have a quick tickle of a conny and it didn't seem too bad, the nob is a quite nice point to grab when adjusting the head.

I noticed myself resting the saw on my right leg while undercutting yesterday, feels completely natural to take the weight off the arms. Was using my Mak 9010 which weighs as much as a small car, only way you can do it really.

Well, I never new that.

Had them both with me and remembered to do a video. I've been using both for hedging. Feels similar in capabilty. This was cutting lime. However from the video, the Makita appears twice as quick, likely due to the .325 vs 1/4" chain. Cheapy feels like it has quicker chain speed. VID-20250923-WA0002.mp4 First cuts, Makita 3 vs cheapy 6 seconds. The second Makita cut was a smaller peice than cheapy, but 8 vs 17 seconds, its a lot quicker. The Makita has needed some chain tightening (loosen, unloosen the nut) while the cheapy has needed nothing so far. I'd want to do more testing before I'd recommend either. Today didnt climb with them, just for snedding on the ground.

When chainsaw milling, even with a full size loader for the lifting, I find turning logs through 90 degrees and restarting the cut direction a bit challenging. Its easy to go out of square. Generally I start off making thick slabs for lower quality work (posts, outdoor furniture or even a small bridge once). Then I make narrower boards towards the middle where, when they are dried I will remove the heart and call the outsides quarter sawn. Then I make some thick stuff again at the bottom of the log. I re-stack the boards in order so I know what is what. Of course it depends if you have a long enough bar and enough wood to do this.

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