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ucoulddoit

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About ucoulddoit

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    Glasgow
  1. Green Larch Timber Frame

    Finally finished! Well, 99.99%.... Quite 'industrial' looking compared to some of the other projects I've seen on here, but should be really useful for air drying and storing timber. The picture below shows the side away from the prevailing winds which is open and has a roof overhang to keep most of the rain out. That, plus the ventilating cladding detail and genorous gaps around the bottom should give plenty of airflow. There is a double door on the side wall and the larch frame is now completely sheltered from direct rain. Nails, hinges, etc. are A4 stainless steel as it is next to the sea so hopefully it will outlast me by a long way. Andrew
  2. milling pics and vids

    I'd agree that's the way to minimise waste with planks that end up like this. Another approach if narrow planks and jointing is tolerable in species prone to drying distortion is to halve the log lengthwise, before milling into planks by sawing at right angles to the first cut. Should then dry with less distortion, cracks and defects compared to being milled through and through. But I feel one of the advantages of 'DIY' milling is being able to obtain wide double waney edged planks which can be difficult to buy off the shelf from a timber merchant. Sometimes, with planks with lots of character, e.g. burr, swirly grain, differences in colour, etc. I'm happy to accept what might seem to be excessive waste to be able to have wide planks in a finished project without joints which might be quite noticeable no matter how well made. Andrew
  3. milling pics and vids

    The following pictures are 2 inch and 1 inch cherry I had milled years ago and show quite a difference in distortion. The 1 inch planks were from a small tree, just 12 inches diameter and the narrower plank has cupped almost 20mm! The wider one has cupped about 10mm, so if planed to an even thickness about half the timber would be wasted. Although it might look like firewood, I've kept these thin planks for sentimental reasons as it was the first tree I had milled and it had been planted by my parents. Ripped into narrow short sections it will yield good timber for small stuff and I'm still aiming to use it...... By contrast, the 2 inch planks from a larger tree are much less distorted. I would now mill thicker and re-saw after drying the timber if I wanted thin planks for a specific project. Andrew
  4. Double head milling

    Don't know anything about this type of setup, but intuitively, I suppose the more powerful saw should be the one doing most of the work, i.e. it should be pulling the chain through the wood to cut it, whereas the smaller saw is pulling the chain through the previously cut kerf? Andrew
  5. Green Larch Timber Frame

    A few photos showing the cladding detail which will hopefully give plenty of ventilation and keep most of the rain out. Also lets in some daylight. First photo shows the inner boards nailed to the rails with small blocks of wood between them fixed onto the rails using a hot melt glue gun. The top of the blocks slope down and away from the board and there are gaps each side to allow any rain which gets through to drain away. Second photo is inside once the outer boards are fixed in place. It was necessary to pre-drill through the outer boards and the blocks to prevent splitting the blocks when driving the nails. It is a 10mm gap between the inner and outer boards which overlap by 25mm so in theory there is not a direct line for rain to get through as the boards are about 20mm thick and the gap between adjacent boards is about 50mm. Appears to have stayed largely dry through the winter storms and didn’t take too much longer to fix the outer boards this way, once I’d got into a routine. But I have broken quite a few drill bits…… Andrew
  6. Green Larch Timber Frame

  7. Burr oak, what's it worth?

    Not sure if this will work properly but the following link should take you to a thread I started about four years ago when I needed advice about milling a veneer quality burr oak butt which was more or less a single burr weighing 1.4 tons. It might be of interest? Since the last post in that thread, the planks have been air dried outside for 2 1/2 years followed by a year or so drying slowly in my workshop which has a dehumidifier running and the planks are now down to under 10%mc and have stayed virtually dead flat with no obvious drying defects. Really looking forward to start using the timber which has worked out to be well worth the effort, cost and time to get to this stage. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/milling-forum/56441-milling-burr-oak.html Andrew
  8. I found the attached article from 25 years ago about green oak framing for someone on another forum who was struggling to find it and thought it might be of interest to others. Interesting to see that 25 years ago this form of construction was viewed as 'rare' and it was the start of a revival. I particularly liked the section about using plumb bobs for marking joints, which I've see demonstrated but not seen in print before. Andrew The Journeymen - Building a timber frame.pdf
  9. Anyone supply for timber framed homes?

    But you're clearly experienced which probably works in your favour if you can talk knowlegably with the building inspector about how you selected and 'graded' the timbers. I think they might be quite concerned if dealing with a self builder full of enthusiasm but with no knowledge of timber specs, etc. Andrew
  10. Anyone supply for timber framed homes?

    As discussed on other threads, the timbers for a house with a structural frame need to be strength graded. Otherwise you might have difficulty getting it signed off by the local authority and possibly end up with something more or less worthless if others in the future cannot use it as security against a loan/mortgage. With perserverance, ingenuity and help, most hurdles can be overcome, but if the frame for a house is not up to spec, the whole job is at risk. Worth working out how to overcome this hurdle before starting to mill lots of timber to avoid ending up with a pile of firewood. I've more of less finished a timber framed 'shed' constructed from timbers I milled with an Alaskan which is on another thread. It is about 15 feet square and single storey. Now I'm working on the drawings for a single storey oak framed building not much bigger and without any hesitation I'll be buying in the milled green oak strength graded beams. Overall, they are a relatively small part of the project and I'm keen to be making quicker progress. But I get great satisfaction from having milled the timbers for the 'shed' and no bought kit or materials could replace that. But once was enough....... Andrew
  11. Damson

    This might be of interest to others wanting to mill smallish logs such as fruitwoods. I finished milling the main trunk of this plum tree over the weekend on my bandsaw after deciding to cross cut the two halves into 34 inch lengths at the bend. Each half was fixed to a board to run along the bandsaw fence to get a straight cut then each quarter was rotated 90 degrees and the final planks were sawn parallel to the initial breaking cut made by the Alaskan mill which had been surfaced on the planer to get the faces dead flat. Final yield is a dozen boards averaging 5 to 6 inches wide by 34 inches long with two quarter sawn at 2 inches thick and the rest 1 1/2 inches thick. So quite small sections but that should minimise the risk of drying defects and I'm looking forward to using it in a few years. Andrew
  12. Milling sycamore.

    The boards would just need to be stood on end until the faces have dried sufficiently to avoid staining at the stickers. I've done this but can't remember how long I left them standing, but it was weeks rather than months, and the boards were still flat when I stacked them with stickers. John Boddy when they were still trading experimented with plastic stickers on sycamore so maybe there is advice somewhere about that approach? Andrew
  13. Damson

    I was going to mill this trunk next weekend but was desperate to see what it was like inside, so halved it with my Alaskan mill today. Thankfully the rot at the top end has not gone all the way down and there is a 3 foot length which looks to be largely sound. It is about 15 inches across at the bottom. I'll aim to do the rest of the milling next weekend on my bandsaw which has a 12 inch depth of cut and rather than through and through boards which might cup significantly, I'll probably make them 'one square edge'. I don't feel I can justify the cost of going to the local bandmill for such a small log and carrying on with the Alaskan mill would waste too much due to the wide saw kerf. Andrew
  14. Damson

    Thanks for the replies Alec and Steve. Sounds like the plank thicknesses I have in mind should minimise the risk of drying defects and my thoughts are that once dry, I can resaw them into narrower and/or thinner pieces if necessary. The first tree I had milled about 30 years ago was a cherry about this size, but I hugely underestimated the amount of drying distortion and made the mistake of milling some very thin 1/4 inch planks to use for panels, and also 1/2 inch planks, then set the stickers too far apart and so it all ended up as firewood! The 1 and 2 inch planks from the same tree also distorted a lot, a combination of cupping and twisting. But they were thick enough to be able to get some usable timber by cutting them lengthwise into narrow planks then planed to take out the twist. So although wasteful, it was a way of obtaining some excellent but small pieces of timber and I've used the same approach since then. Hopefully I'll not waste so much with this plum which incidently is a good colour and very narrow sap wood. Unfortunately there is a bit of rot at the top end which seems to have originated where a branch broke off or was cut off. Hopefully the rot doesn't extend too far down. Planning to mill in a couple of weeks so I'll upload some pictures once finished. Andrew
  15. Damson

    Steve Looking for a bit of advice. I collected this tree today and am thinking about how to mill it to minimise the risk of splits. How have you found plum compares to say apple which also tends to split? Do you think plum is more prone to splitting compared to apple or about the same? I've milled a fair bit of apple and from that experience I'm thinking of thinnish planks, about 1 1/2 inches thick and a thicker one through the centre, but cut in half to remove the heart. It will be for making small stuff, maybe some band sawn veneers, etc. rather than turning. Andrew

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