Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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I designed our fireplace, seem to remember the regs focus on distance to combustible materials and doesn't sound like yours are.
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Maybe hydraulic rather than PTO?
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Work have a 150 and a 230. No snedding with the 230, massively better at dragging in and crushing forks.
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I've got a 2010 year 261 and never had a problem with needle bearings, I think it's a good saw. I was advised years ago to take off the spline/rim drive and fit a spur type clutch drum because of the bearings, obviously difficult to say if it would have been ok if I hadn't.
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One of the T-piece photos on ebay has a laser engraved mark of PA6 on it, this is the material code which is nylon-6. According to Direct Plastics the nylon has a long term operating temperature range up to 100C whereas PVC only 60C - I would be nervous about using PVC on a heater outlet. https://www.directplastics.co.uk/data-sheets Not sure where that leaves you though, seems it's possible to get nylon pipe but difficult/expensive - maybe steel exhaust pipe is the best option as spuddog says - you could get the T cut and welded up and also weld any brackets or fixings you need on to it?
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I used Stanley Jetcut to build green oak fence, panel saw was fine on 3" posts and rails but obviously going to be hard work on sleepers. The teeth are tri ground like a Silky but cut when you push.
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Chap at work has the larger saw (different name can't remember) which also has coarser pitch, he also says he would rather it was a bit finer for smoother cuts when pruning. My Zubat is 7.5 which I would stick with for a replacement especially given what you have said.
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You haven't listed spark plug but you must have changed it?
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Coletti beat me to it. I thought about it because I hired a Timberwolf 13/75 once where the anvil gap was about 8mm, terrible on anything small as it all just got dragged through instead of cut and then of course that would clog it up. I also just wonder if there's something on the engine like air filter blocked, throttle cable set wrong, governor spring or whatever meaning you are not getting full rpm? That definitely will cause poor chipping, blocking, etc.
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I have one, mine is on its second engine but some of it may be just as old as your hire one. It throws chip well, leaves less so. I have a 12 foot trailer and if I park it at the back the chip will easily reach the front, although some leaves will fall down in the gap so I usually tarp. It doesn't block often although you can block it, big lumps of Leylandii will do it if you let go the whole thing in one but just need to hold back part of it for a second or two. I sort of watch and judge how it gets on to gauge whether to slow it, most bits can just be thrown in. I do have quick release clamps on the chute though which is apparently a JB option, so blockage isn't a major trauma (no spanner, v quick to pop off and poke out). If it's a hire machine you've got though, question would be is it sharp and is the anvil gap correct? I'm assuming though that you are familiar with effect of sharpness from your CS100.
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Judging from the number of adverts that don't get much response on here the constraint might well be staff rather than work for them to do.
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I think she's saying 'All right boys, well done for cutting it down. Now cut me a log off the end.'
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Just to pick up on the earlier point about previous conflicts and whether they were hard as nails, my wife's great grandfather died in 1920 from alcohol poisoning, her great uncle went up the fields in 1919 and shot himself. Nobody called it PTSD but they were never right when they came back from the trenches. I am not ex forces so no direct experience but I do think as a country we have a responsibility to our veterans, whether it's best done by the MoD or NHS or charity or someone else I'm not sure.
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Yes, in the same situation doing trees part time I paid the insurance, did more tree work, and pushed my pricing up a little bit on private jobs to help cover it. As others have said, without it you're definitely not properly insured when someone else is helping you even if they are volunteering or have their own insurance. My conclusion, it's another one of the things which fill the gap between what people think tree surgeons make (because they charge a lot) and what they actually make.
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Buy the Dolmar version, it's orange.
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Work on a footpath - Signage, pedestrian management etc.
Dan Maynard replied to William Clifford's topic in General chat
Looks like a pretty steady stream of cars, not somewhere I'd be looking to take chances. My thought would be that the hedge needs reshaping (eg clear right around barrier) so it can be managed with a flail in future, needing TM every year will be bonkers. -
The 271 291 391 series are the non-pro so comparatively heavy and slow. If you think Stihl you should look rather at 261 or 362, depending on what bar and what weight you are happy with.
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Never ever heard of a shelf life on it, likewise lube oil - only petrol which has volatile parts that evaporate.
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My dad always used to keep the chainsaw bar wrapped in a pair of jeans instead of plastic bar cover.
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Thanks, will bear you in mind. Actually looked at a job once with about 30 conifers to remove, didn't get it as I don't have the kit - should have just given them your number.
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I think like a lot of things it's easier once you get started, all the above advice spot on. One thing my climbing assessor said was to just be honest about your ability, he was fed up of people claiming to be hotshots and then doing something stupid. They are advertising for someone that needs to learn on the job so that's perfect for you. The only thing which might cause you to fail is standing around with your hands in your pockets when there's stuff to be done, unforgivable that.
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In the end our man Steve knew somebody local who turned up in a pickup and took the logs, and we were able to squeeze all the chip into one load on the tipper so didn't have to make the call. Hoping to get muttley to come and mill it now.
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I haven't heard about dropping a file size, I was told to just tip the file up a touch to avoid the strap but it does make sense to me. Going from .027 to .045 on the depth gauges though seems madness. It says only .018 more but that is an increase of 66%. Put the other way round, if this is right my worn chain still set at .027 has only 60% of the step it should have, so surely it would hardly cut? In fact those old chains are rippers, I wouldn't want any more off the rakers. I think they're bonkers, but has anyone actually done this to the rakers with good results?
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I think regarding charge times the no free lunch rule applies. power = volts x amps So on a cigarette lighter you might get 7 or 8 amps, lose a bit in conversion and the charger will output 80watts. On a 13A domestic socket the most you can have is about 3000watts, you'd need a bigger circuit to do 5000 (eg electric showers are typically 7500 to 10000 watts). Edit have just thought about this, 300 or 500 watts makes a lot more sense. I'm sceptical about that inverter running 1500watts because that would need at least 125amps at 12volts, chipper alternator likely to output half that, need cables as thick as your finger etc. If the charger is really 500 watts though then it would manage it as that would need a more realistic 22 amps at 12 volts. Still heavy though. What about a small petrol generator like campers and caravanners use? Lot quieter than running the chipper.
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Thank you, I'll give him a call and see what happens.
