Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Good point, bonfire is actually the cheapest option but depending on where you live may not be permissible.
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I'd go with planting replacements now and felling later, reductions for me are for when trees outgrow the position and these have plenty of space.
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The who can get most outraged at bad treework thread.
Dan Maynard replied to Mick Dempsey's topic in Picture Forum
Town made me laugh too, don't even have a pub or shop in the village any more. -
The who can get most outraged at bad treework thread.
Dan Maynard replied to Mick Dempsey's topic in Picture Forum
Uh hang on a minute, I recognise those trees as they are where I live. Top one is in a garden, a mature ash with a TPO also within conservation area, it's a had some big cracks in limbs overhanging the road so I think it was reduced like that to make it safe. I am pretty sure I know the firm. Second pic is a council tree just on the conservation area boundary, Hunts District Council whacked it a couple of years ago. It was overhanging the house, I know the people and they complained but everyone was a bit shocked after the council left. That one is just properly outrageous, I can't think it won't decay. Where are you from then Boo Who? -
I think 3-4 cubic metres of brash sounds optimistic if there are 10cm cuts. If it's for a friend then it's domestic waste so can be taken to a recycling centre but will be a lot of trips. Cheapest is probably to hire a small chipper, take it in and spread the wood chip on the borders.
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Still Airstreams here, never noticed a problem with spikes. I do keep looking out for what to get next as sole starting to lift but I need a size 13.
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This guy is good to watch on all sorts of things, here he is on hitchclimber
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Wearing gloves helps me as it reduces the effort to grip. I've messed around with different ones though to find a good fit. Your arms get stronger and you get more fluid through more climbing, I'm afraid it does feel like being battered at first. I also find the hip thrust a lot easier with hitchclimber as you are pulling above the knot with both hands. I wouldn't leave the tickets too long though as the training will make you safer and you'll get efficiency tips.
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An inverter driving a three phase motor from a single phase source will give you the soft start you desire. In round numbers you need 4A of single phase per kW (think 250volts to make the maths easy) so electric heaters are limited to about 3kW on a plug, will be something over 20A for 5kW so you probably want a 32A socket installing with cable straight back to fuse board.
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Another 40s starter here, it can be done but again was very fit and strong earlier in life. My take is that there are actually lot of different jobs in arb, realistically I ache too much after a few full days climbing to be up all day every day. I wouldn't go for a job pollarding street trees in London but currently do mainly domestic arb, which is more of a mixture so I get along just fine. I think you have to find your niche, I've seen a lot of adverts from bigger firms where HGV experience is an advantage, maybe you could also get 360 driving tickets? That way you're not trying to compete outright with younger fitter blokes. I would say go for it, start somewhere and build up experience. Contacts, friends, get on the blower to local firms, somebody will be looking for men at some point.
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... whereas I run 16" on my 261 and would say that's perfect, don't get 18". My 2p would be that if you have only one saw then 50cc perfect, 40cc a bit small so 261/550xp good choice. I started with Stihl largely because of dealer support near me. After that it really depends how much of the bigger stuff you are going to cut, a lot of 20"+ stems then you may want a 70cc saw to make it quicker but that's another big step in cost, power, weight, cutting forces etc so not a natural step from the 181.
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That's true but recoil springs aren't very highly stressed and he only wants a week out of it, I reckon worth a go.
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I've also heard the flight path theory, and we do have some elms near us which are in a hollow and much taller than 5m without being infected, but when I asked last about the mechanism I didn't get a very definitive answer. The eggs get laid right in the top of the tree where the branches are young so not sure I totally follow your cambium thickness theory. I don't know the answer though.
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I believe it also depends if you are on hitch or zigzag - some friction up top isn't a bad thing if you are using a hitch, as it takes some of the load off the hitch and reduces tendency to bind. Pulley and zz is apparently great combination but I have not climbed it. The multisaver is a lot more useful than plain cambium saver, that is what I would buy but I am on a hitchclimber.
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In the house, I also worried about rodents. I don't think damp itself is an issue (or you wouldn't climb in the rain), but I don't like the idea of mould on it that might happen if it stays damp.
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Doubtless someone else will be able to advise the exact type but looks like bark beetles have eaten all the juicy cambium. I think I see a patch on the stem and on another of the limbs, so basically I would say it's too late for treatment, it's an ex tree.
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Short ones. I guess there are bigger trees that need long but not round here.
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Exactly, in the horse chestnut example above what took the time was explaining the long term effects and why the neighbours paying for the initial cut is all well and good but they are making you an ongoing liability. Previously topped sycamore I've been in hasn't rotted as badly, only a couple of feet but long shoots sprung up then cracked off and landed on neighbours TV aerial so still ongoing maintenance issues for that tree. And it was just far too small a garden for a sycamore, remove and replace would have left them in a better situation at the seven year mark which is when I was up it.
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"asking for a mate" You've bought yourself a 171 haven't you?
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Having spent some time this evening writing an email to 'the neighbours want to reduce the horse chestnut next to the village hall by half as it's blocking their light, is this a good idea' - can we have a 'Why not to top trees' link at the top of arbtalk.co.uk with some photo examples that we can point customers to?
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Found a couple of pics of a poplar which had been topped a few years before. Nearly hollow 18" stems at top, soft spongy wood 3/4 of stem at bottom, roots decayed to hollow at the base. New people had bought the house so we weren't sure how long but counting rings about 10 years.
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Yeah to be fair I don't use one for my chipper as that drives itself up the ramps, but I do use a hand winch to pull the big trailer up into the shed.
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Bit funny Mark sold his grinder really, given all these stumps he's leaving around the place....
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I'm thinking about the Mary Rose which they brought out of the Solent in the 80s, that went off to be sprayed with a wax that would gradually replace the water in the timber so it could later be out in the open air without cracking. That would be the ultimate, but I agree probably not too practical a suggestion.
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Or a little boat trailer hand winch, cheap as chips.
