Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Here's a couple of theories: 1. Bit of grip when you lift up on the saw handle which makes it press down there. When you lift to drag they skid. 2. By having those bits touching the timber it makes a more definite contact which makes the jig more stable. Personally I'd have a go at using it before grinding them off, you can then grind them if you think they are annoying.
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I think that one isn't right, Stihl size code is a single number so should just have 3 not 3/8. This is genuine, bought from Stihl dealer. +1 for Rob at chainsawbars, sorted me chains next day last week.
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If you are thinking of milling at some point I would avoid the 562 and then Makita/Dolmar 7900 is the best value for money within your budget. In my opinion.
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Maybe need that with a firepit that can't move, mine is low and round so we can just move to the side which isn't smoky.
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I don't think the big cast iron would crack, as being thin it can flex to absorb the expansion - especially if you build a brick hearth. Some of the scout camps I've stayed at make you have fires in half oil drums, these are quite rubbish for sitting round because they reflect all the heat upwards so I like your idea to turn the dish, it'll make a lot of difference. I would try it out though, I'm trying to imagine what the smoke will do and maybe will be fine if you don't turn it too much.
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Home schooling - anyone else had a bit of a shock??
Dan Maynard replied to Squaredy's topic in General chat
I missed all this, was outside having a beer by the fire pit. I am confused though what with Vera Lynn being 103. And I wondered what the French VE day celebrations were like? Anything going on in rest of Europe? -
Found that really interesting. This is just the kind of advice/information that I think the government should be publishing so that we can learn about the virus from reputable sources. I was thinking about doing arb work while reading, it would seem that riding in a van together is much more the risk area than whilst outside, and transmission through touching ropes etc while rigging is possible but unlikely. Have others found similar articles?
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I didn't see any when I just had 38. I think in domestic arb aerial rescue is undervalued and in many cases a bit theoretical.
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No, it's not a nimble quick saw like the 346. If the 346 is like a sports car the 112 is more like driving a landrover, slow, heavy but pulls and pulls.
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Even so, having used a 346 and owning a 112 the old Dolmars are very solidly built - quite a bit heavier for the same cc.
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Especially Kent, for biomass.
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I did 38 over 5 days, 39 is only 2 (both 1 day assessment added on). The 39 was no climbing instruction, just cuts, work positioning and a bit of spiking. It helped me that I'd done it separately as then I had done enough climbing practice that I could confidently get up the tree and concentrate on the saw.
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Use a bounce back loan? I'm sure you thought of that, not sure I'd want to do it either?
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My opinion 30/31 are a set, then you are useful and should start getting out to work even if the rate isn't what you want. Do them anyway, if you are working around farms and smallholdings it will stand you in good stead. Having 38 won't make you any more useful/money really and it's not a lot more to do 39. Once you have 38/39 you can be second climber and then maybe get a little more money.
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No I was just thinking if you could pop the top off in a oner it would be quick and easy, much less to chip than taking the whole thing down. If you have to dismantle the top with chucking it out sideways it's a pain compared to stripping from the bottom up. Either way if keeping half the tree saves a bit of money it's a win all round.
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That's a good idea actually, I like that. Would it be cheaper though? I think it depends if there is room to fell the top?
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Or a bandsaw mill, stand a load of rings up on end and set the cut height to 250 from the bed. Expensive for firewood?
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Remove the pop instead then, probably fall apart sooner anyway.
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- common lime tree
- common lime
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Brian James tipper trailer, good or bad?
Dan Maynard replied to The dogwalker's topic in Large equipment
I have a Brian James Cargo Connect Compact and very nearly bought a tipper at the time. One sales point I really liked is the beams sit adjacent when it comes down whereas on an Ifor the beams sit on top which means the deck is a lot higher. I like low deck for easy loading. I've also seen Nugent advertised and there's a new dealer near me but shut at the moment. Would be really interested to know how they compare. -
Possibly the reason people haven't jumped in answering the question as posed is it all depends... Quality of timber could range from biomass to sawlogs, site might have access for a harvester to blast through or it might be boggy or steep and need hand felling and winching. You probably need to get a few different people in who know the game to look at the site and give an opinion, between the factors above it could barely pay for the extraction or could make a profit.
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BS8596 ‘surveying for bats in trees and woodland’
Dan Maynard replied to patrick stileman's topic in General chat
Presumably you have started with the microguide? -
AMR is French made, said to be good quality too.
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I think the days of the 365 new are numbered at least in the UK, FR Jones have moved over to 565 now. Don't know if the same trick works on those? Stihl then you're a solid 462 for that size, or else find a secondhand 461 if you want old school.
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Posch SpaltAxt 6, 230v. You can split pretty big rings, just need to start at the side and take logs off rather than plunging straight into the centre. I'm a big fan of the little side racks too, when you split a bigger bit can pop the lumps in there to work through instead of on the floor so that saves a lot of bending. The other ones I looked at were AMR and Thor, it was a bit of a coin toss in the end.
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- electric logsplitter
- log splitter
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Aw crap, you're right! Better stop raking then. (autocorrect edit)
